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Diamond Stone: How to clean?
- Thread starter MTHall720
- Start date
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,433
The best thing to do with any stone, diamond or not, is to clean it after each use. Much easier to stay ahead of it this way.
Diamond hones are very easy to take care of. I've just been using dish soap & warm water after each sharpening session. I believe DMT recommends occasional cleaning with a mildly abrasive kitchen cleanser like Comet or Ajax, with water of course. Use a scrub brush with it. Others here also like a product called Bar Keepers Friend. Need to be a little more careful with it, because it uses a chemical reaction (oxalic acid) to remove the metal fines from the hone. The oxalic acid reacts more aggressively with some metals, than with others. Be sure to read the warnings on the container very carefully.
Since diamond hones are generally made of steel plates (coated in nickel & diamond abrasive), and are therefore vulnerable to rust, be sure to thoroughly dry the hone before putting it away. Rinsing in very warm (almost hot) water will help to evaporate residual moisture away.
Another note. Some folks actually use a little bit of soapy water (w/dish soap) on the hone while sharpening. Sort of lubricates the hone, and will also help to float away much of the metal fines while sharpening. Similar to using oil on a conventional stone, but MUCH easier to clean up.
Diamond hones are very easy to take care of. I've just been using dish soap & warm water after each sharpening session. I believe DMT recommends occasional cleaning with a mildly abrasive kitchen cleanser like Comet or Ajax, with water of course. Use a scrub brush with it. Others here also like a product called Bar Keepers Friend. Need to be a little more careful with it, because it uses a chemical reaction (oxalic acid) to remove the metal fines from the hone. The oxalic acid reacts more aggressively with some metals, than with others. Be sure to read the warnings on the container very carefully.
Since diamond hones are generally made of steel plates (coated in nickel & diamond abrasive), and are therefore vulnerable to rust, be sure to thoroughly dry the hone before putting it away. Rinsing in very warm (almost hot) water will help to evaporate residual moisture away.
Another note. Some folks actually use a little bit of soapy water (w/dish soap) on the hone while sharpening. Sort of lubricates the hone, and will also help to float away much of the metal fines while sharpening. Similar to using oil on a conventional stone, but MUCH easier to clean up.
Still not sure about this! I still don't like metal coming off when I test it on the back. Now when I use BKF, I use it very, very lightly.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,179
I've tested, tested, and retested and still have never seen metal removed from the back of the stone. I understand the concern but see no issue after 2+ years of use.
If that changes trust me you all will be the first to know
If that changes trust me you all will be the first to know
- Joined
- Apr 12, 2009
- Messages
- 13,433
LIGHT is key, with this stuff.
I use the BKF occasionally. It's really at it's best on ceramic hones. I've also used it on some kitchen flatware that had some small rust spots (from laying in the sink when wet). Worked beautifully on some stoneware plates, which also had some staining left (for years) from flatware laying on them in the sink. The rust stains came off in a matter of seconds. I'd previously assumed I'd never get the stains off those plates.
In all cases, I've used it as a paste (as described by knifenut1013 earlier), and applied it with a Q-tip for just a few seconds, then gently wiped off & rinsed. Works great this way.
