Diamonds

Joined
Apr 2, 2000
Messages
45
Can anybody tell me about getting a hand rubbed finish using diamond paste or spray ? I can't seem to find any info on it. (might be looking in the wrong spot, or might of imagined it) I am currently using belts up to an A6 and then using 2000 grit paper lenthwise before buffing. I'm getting deep scratches from the 2000 grit. (New sleeve of paper, also tried different manufacturers)

Dave Wardman
 
Dave,There are a couple of possibilities.First,make sure the scratches from lower grits are truly gone.They have a nasty habit of popping back up when you start hand rubbing.Drop back to 400 from your A6 belt when you start to hand rub.Go 400,800,1000,2000.At 2000 you should not be getting deep scratches.Second,the paper you are using may be galling the steel.That happens when the worn off grit and metal dust forms little balls which act like much larger grit.It happens often when polishing gemstones.Make sure the metal is smooth,use a different type of paper,wipe it off more often,try wet sanding,only sand in one direction,etc.Third,make sure you are not transferring grit from a coarser belt to the blade while hand sanding.The work surface,your hands,the wipe rags,everything can cause scratches at 2000,if it carries some grit to the blade.As for diamond paste it works fine.It is not the easiest polish to do a blade with - nor is it cost effective.Silicon carbide would be a better choice,if you are going to use a charged polishing pad.Make sure you get graded grit sizes,not grit sizes for tumbling stones.They have too much variation of particle size.You didn't say what metal you are polishing - some steels are a bear to mirror polish.
 
I have done a lot of diamond paste polishing on very hard steel. What I use is a hard homemade feldt pad in my drill press. I had some Dremel brushes and some 1" width 3/8 thickness feldt. Actually, the pieces of feldt were ink pads that I cut rough circles out of, 1" circles. Then I hot glued the pads to the flat of the brush and chucked the whole works in my drill press. One very important thing to do is mask off the drill press table surface because the table will scratch your blade. I use lengths of masking tape butted together to cover the table top. Adjust your table to within about a half inch or so of the chucked pad while your chuck is in the raised position. You may be more comfortable doing it in a drill press vise, But I do it free hand. Adjust your table so that the edge of the table is about a half inch from the pad when it is lowered onto the table. Smear a bit of paste on the blade and lower the pad onto the blade, starting right up by the guard. Let's imagine your blade is 1" wide at the guard. Apply downward pressure, just a couple of pounds pressure at most. You don't need a lot of pressure, the diamonds will cut like crazy. Do about a an inch of swirl at a time, for about 6 to 10 seconds, LIGHT pressure, but steady pressure. Raise the pad to clear the blade, and then move the blade about 1/2 or 3/4 of a 1" swirl, and repeat, traveling the lenght of the blade. Then, do another row, overlapping the 1" swirls. After the blade is covered with polished swirls, lower the pad again and hold constant pressure. Then, move the blade in a constant motion, essentially doing an equal overall buff with the pad. You will have to apply more paste as needed, but it won't take much. The paste's use can be extended by using a minute amount of oil if the slurry gets too thick to be effective. You will quickly develop a feel for the pad and the blade. Use caution when near the sharp knife blade edge, of course. Work toward the sharp edge and have the direction of the pad traveling off the sharp edge, not toward the edge, if this makes sense. Your pad will be spinning off the main part of the blade and off and away from the edge, NOT TOWARDS THE SHARP EDGE. BY using hand pressure and not locking the chuck down you have more control. Go easy until you have a good feel of what you are doing. It's actually easier to do than you imagine. When I started making knives I was using power hacksaw blades and puting mirror polishes on the blades. I found it impossible to do a mirror polish on those blades by using any other method with the equipment I had. The first couple I polished with diamond paste and a single speed Dremel tool You can imagine the mess, but it did the job. You wear most of the slung off black gunk when using the Demel method.
 
Thank you for the replies. I'm using RWL34 for the steel, it takes a very good polish. I'm a hollow grinder and all of the scratches up to and including the A6 belt are across the blade. The 2000 grit is the only sanding done lengthwise. Thats how I know that its the 2000 grit giving me grief. I use the 2000 to make sure that I got the scratches from the previous grits out and to smooth things out. I use WD40 as a lubricant but I don't change the paper until its worn out. I have tried different brands with the same results. I was thinking the diamond paste might be more reliable. I'll try changing the paper more often and see what happens. I certainly use it long enough to develope grit balls (shudder)

John, have you tried that on a hollow ground blade ? Sounds like an interesting method.
 
Try water instead of the WD-40, as it might be softening the grit binder in the paper. It's also better on the nose.
 
Sticky, no, I haven't tried that on hollow grinds, but it should work if you go light with it and cant (tilt) the work so the buff pad is contacting the grind of the piece and be running off of the sharp edges. The L6 stock was too thin to hollow grind for the size of the blades.
 
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