Diasharp and Edge Pro: A Love Story

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Feb 3, 2009
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I want to mount a 6"x2" extra-coarse Diasharp (cut in half to 1") on a stone blank. However, I can not find a one-sided Extra-coarse in that size; only a double-sided Coarse/Extra-coarse (D6CX). And that would be fine by me, but I can't figure out how to bond/affix this double-sided Diasharp to the stone blank. Is there a way to attach the double-sided Coarse/Extra-coarse Diasharp to the blank without glue or contact cement so that it can be easily flipped over to use both sides? Would strong rubber bands/elastics at each end work? I realize I'd be losing a centimeter of real estate on each end where the elstic bands would be, but I could live with that if it'd actually work.

Regarding availability of 6"x2" Extra-coarse Diasharps. DMT's website does not list them as available, or even as existing. Like I mentioned, the only product on their site in that size and that grit is the double-sided Coarse/Extra-coarse. However I did find a couple sites that do carry what they describe as 6"x2" Extra-coarse Diasharps, without the other Coarse side. Part of me thinks they are mistaken, and that those products are actually double-sided, or maybe even correctly one-sided but listed the incorrect grit. I think this because of their absence from DMT's product listing. Can anyone comment on if they exist or not?

They are listed here and here. Looks legit, but why wouldn't they be listed on DMT's site?
 
I've never seen that. I would call DMT directly and ask them. I use the Edgepro 120 and 220 stones and then go to my 4"x7/8" Diasharps mounted on stone blanks I made for the EP. I considered getting the 6"x2" but the 4"x7/8" work just fine. I don't do a lot of reprofiling and most knives I sharpen don't need for me to go that low in grit.
 
Good luck trying to cut one of those things. They're hard! I just mounted my 2X6 "as is."
I have a 2X6 coarse mounted on an EP blank.

Sand the "shiny side" of the DMT lightly. With the abrasive side down, center the EP blank on the non-abrasive side of the DMT. Cover the exposed portions of the DMT "shiny" side with painters tape.

Take the blank off, and spray both pieces with 3M Super 77 glue. Wait 15-30 seconds. Put the blank back on the sprayed DMT. Put a weight of some kind on the top (a book?) and let it set up for a couple of hours. Remove the painters tape from the back side, and you're good to go.

A word of caution! Be careful! When you put the two surfaces together, wherever it first touches is where it stays.

AND USE THIS SPRAY GLUE OUTSIDE! :eek:
 
You know that a piece of good double back carpet tape will hold them very well too. My son had some 2x6 stone holders made for his EP. If anyone wants to know more about it you can PM me. NO I do not sell them. just passing on the tip.
 
I suggest not cutting the stone in half. Personally, I prefer 2" media when profiling or starting the sharpening process. 1" media has more of a tendency to follow a blade edge that might be uneven. After sharpening with the wider course stone, polishing with the finer grits can be done with the 1" media with little chance of a problem.
 
Like udtjim, I've used double-sided tape with excellent results. Just be sure to use the stuff that uses the thin rubber rather than the thick foam. To remove the tape, I soak the entire thing in lighter fluid. Don't just pull it off the diamond side of the stone.

Stitchawl
 
Thanks for adding that. I forgot to mention that in my post. My son is buying the Pro model and I am getting his EP. I have used it at his house, love it for kitchen knives.
 
Thanks for adding that. I forgot to mention that in my post. My son is buying the Pro model and I am getting his EP. I have used it at his house, love it for kitchen knives.

Congrats to you and your son. :thumbup:

BTW, if/when you need to replace an EP stone, boil the old one in clear water for a few sweconds, and slip a chisel blade under the stone. It comes off easily, and while the blank is still hot, the chisel blade will easily (well, maybe not easily, but it's not hard) remove the glue from the blank. the 3M Super 77 is the best thing I've ever used for mounting a new one. (I think it'w what the factory uses) Being thin, it also keeps the new stone the same thickness as all of your other stones, so there's no need to re-adjust the machine.
 
1" media has more of a tendency to follow a blade edge that might be uneven.

I've never seen this, though I imagine it could happen.

+1 on the Super 77. FWIW, I just heat the stone and mount with either the heat gun or hair dryer and the stone slides off with a little help.
 
+1 on the Super 77. FWIW, I just heat the stone and mount with either the heat gun or hair dryer and the stone slides off with a little help.

Thanks for the tip. :thumbup: I'll try it! :p

Thom, I hadn't thought of the putty knife for removing the old glue! Sounds like a good idea. It might save having to re-sharpen a chisel! :p
 
The putty knife; Ben Dale's idea; separates the two items stuck with the 77. The residue is removable with acetone.
 
Last time I talked to Ben Dale (a few months ago), he told me to boil the stone for a few minutes. Then the stone comes off easily. He didn't mention the putty knife method.

Even so, I've never had to do it. I've made plenty of stone blanks myself just for trying things out. The only stones I've needed to replace are the two course ones, and I got tired of them long before needing to replace them. I hate flattening. I use a DMT, belt sander, or PSA backed Silicon Carbide tape stuck to a blank to start. The polishing stones seem to last forever without dishing. I'll flatten those every now and again just to clean them out.
 
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