Did a blade swap on a leek and need some help.

[Squashfan]

Sigh. Seems like the only times I have posted recently have been problems. Oh well, you guys have solved almost all of them. Big thanks for all the help. So I have another question. I have done a blade swap on a CB Leek but going from frame lock (For the donor blade) to liner lock (donor handles) has created a problem. The liner lock is longer than the frame lock and it not locking properly due to the length difference. It will unlock with a push of my thumb on the back of the blade. What should I do? Should I sand the liner lock down?

 

[gooeytek]

I've attempted that also, and came across the same problem that you have. Sanding the linerlock needs to be precise and you need to match the geometry of the lockface with the tang. It's not a very forgiving procedure because of how thin the liner and blade is, and it can go wrong pretty easily. Did you try the S30V blade in the framelock?

 

[Squashfan]

Maybe I should just get a coated framelock blem. Do you think that would work?

 

[NeverMore1701]

I had this problem on a recent frankenLeek I did for a friend. About a minute with some 200 grit, followed by some 400 solved the matter perfectly. You just have to be careful to duplicate the original geometry of the lockbar pretty exactly.

 

[Squashfan]

Necroing my own thread! I have some wet/dry metal sandpaper. What I am thinking about is gluing it a popsicle stick. Disassembling the knife and taking out the locking liner. Lay the popsicle on the lock face and sanding. Any tips on how to match the original angle would be greatly appreciated. I don't fully under stand that part.

 

[2 shot]

Take a sharpie and color the lock face. Sand on it a few strokes and look to see where the metal is beginning to show. If the entire lock face isn't showing metal evenly make adjustments to sand the part that is still colored.