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Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
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Did I do the right thing?
- Thread starter gajinoz
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 24, 1999
- Messages
- 4,981
I think the concensus here is pretty much that the only "jig" (non free hand, whatever you want to call it) thats possibly better is the Edge Pro (which costs a lot more).
The razor edge systems and things compete, but aren't quite as nice.
The only thing you will have trouble on it is removing large amounts of material (ie reprofiling the edge), and thats just because ceramice stones are very fine (even the medium is finer than alot of other stones,probably comparable to a hard arkansas)
I believe there are diamond sleeves either available (or possibly included with some kits?) that will speed things up, and you can always use a bench stone for rough profiling and finish on the spyderco.
The razor edge systems and things compete, but aren't quite as nice.
The only thing you will have trouble on it is removing large amounts of material (ie reprofiling the edge), and thats just because ceramice stones are very fine (even the medium is finer than alot of other stones,probably comparable to a hard arkansas)
I believe there are diamond sleeves either available (or possibly included with some kits?) that will speed things up, and you can always use a bench stone for rough profiling and finish on the spyderco.
- Joined
- May 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,480
Did I do the right thing?
YES.tom.
YES.tom.
- Joined
- May 24, 2003
- Messages
- 181
I got a sharpmaker and it's great. The only time I encounter difficulty with it is with some S30v and D2 that is up around 60rc or better. For the "difficult" knives I have a diamond stone. I think ya made a fine choice.
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2000
- Messages
- 3,140
I like mine a lot and I have the diamond rods as well. I have always wanted a really nice big set of benchstones to replace teh 2"x6" ones I have, but since i got my sharpmaker, I just haven't gotten around to buying a set. It seems to do a really good job on everything I throw at it. The diamond rods do make reprofiling an edge a reasonable proposition, even on a modern hard steel.
I agree that Spyderco should offer the set with all the rods in one case. There's plenty who would buy a complete set. Throw in the diamond rods and the Extra Fine ceramics and I'd probably retire my existing set (or give it to my boy) and buy the complete 4 rod set.
jmx
I agree that Spyderco should offer the set with all the rods in one case. There's plenty who would buy a complete set. Throw in the diamond rods and the Extra Fine ceramics and I'd probably retire my existing set (or give it to my boy) and buy the complete 4 rod set.
jmx
- Joined
- Sep 30, 1999
- Messages
- 4,229
I havent found anything better and quicker than the sharpmaker, I even use it for chisel grinds. One thing I've noticed with new knives is that sometimes the first time I sharpen the knife it doesnt get quite as sharp as it does after the 2nd or 3rd time I use it with the same knife. I guess it's because the angle of the edge isnt exactly the same as the sharpmaker but after the 2nd or 3rd time it is.
One of the highest recommendations I've ever heard for the sharpmaker was Bob Terzuola telling me at a show that he puts the final edges on his knives with it.
One of the highest recommendations I've ever heard for the sharpmaker was Bob Terzuola telling me at a show that he puts the final edges on his knives with it.
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2000
- Messages
- 3,140
It was Chris Reeve's recommendation that first convinced me to buy one after I bought my first lil Sebbie.
jmx
jmx
Most of the time, I put the stones on the back of the 204 unit and use it like a benchstone. Lately, I just grab a stone and hone the blade without the stand.
I only use the diamond rods for reprofiling new knives or damaged ones.
Regularly using diamond stones will turn your knife into a toothpick.
I only use the diamond rods for reprofiling new knives or damaged ones.
Regularly using diamond stones will turn your knife into a toothpick.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,308
I consider my Sharpmaker obsolete because I now use the Spyderco Profile and the Spyderco Ceramic Whet Stone instead.
The thing I do not like about the Sharpmaker is the fact that it is set up to sharpen only one particular angle. You are expected to hold the knife blade vertically as you stroke down the angled stones, because that's how it's supposed to work.
If you want to vary the bevel angle, you have to tilt the blade either toward or away from the stone as you stroke for smaller or larger angle. I feel that this is not a good way to maintain a consistent angle. Far better to lie a stone flat on a bench and find the angle (the magic-marker technique works well for me), and keep the angle, through discipline and practice.
I have been achieving EXCELLENT sharpness results by first profiling on a DMT Dia-Sharp coarse 'stone,' then doing the rest of the sharpening on my gray (medium) Spyderco stones (the large Whet Stone or the Profile, depending on blade size). I don't even use the white (fine) Profile stone. I can shave with the results off the medium stone, and I like the bite that it gives the blades.
The Sharpmaker has one good use, and that is sharpening using the corners, particularly for serrations. But the Profile could be used for that, too, come to think of it. I'd just have to hold it on edge, I guess.
Learn freehand sharpening. Don't rely on some guide. Rely on your ability.
---Jeffrey
The thing I do not like about the Sharpmaker is the fact that it is set up to sharpen only one particular angle. You are expected to hold the knife blade vertically as you stroke down the angled stones, because that's how it's supposed to work.
If you want to vary the bevel angle, you have to tilt the blade either toward or away from the stone as you stroke for smaller or larger angle. I feel that this is not a good way to maintain a consistent angle. Far better to lie a stone flat on a bench and find the angle (the magic-marker technique works well for me), and keep the angle, through discipline and practice.
I have been achieving EXCELLENT sharpness results by first profiling on a DMT Dia-Sharp coarse 'stone,' then doing the rest of the sharpening on my gray (medium) Spyderco stones (the large Whet Stone or the Profile, depending on blade size). I don't even use the white (fine) Profile stone. I can shave with the results off the medium stone, and I like the bite that it gives the blades.
The Sharpmaker has one good use, and that is sharpening using the corners, particularly for serrations. But the Profile could be used for that, too, come to think of it. I'd just have to hold it on edge, I guess.
Learn freehand sharpening. Don't rely on some guide. Rely on your ability.
---Jeffrey
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2003
- Messages
- 11,650
Good advice and I certainly plan to do just that. I'll be buying some good stones soon and I'll be practicing on all the cheap kitchen knives until I get good at it. However, in the mean time, I want something that I can use to keep my good knives sharp and do it well with the least possibility of stuffing them up accidentally.
Also it's something that my wife can use to touch up the knives she uses. She is highly unlikely to become interested in learning how to do it freehand.
G'day all
I would say that the Sharpmaker is the quickest and easiest (after some practice) way to keep nearly any knife sharp, after I got it and tried it on an old bash around knife I sat down and sharpened every other knife I own, all came up as sharp or sharper than when new..
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'For best results remove foot from mouth before speaking'
I would say that the Sharpmaker is the quickest and easiest (after some practice) way to keep nearly any knife sharp, after I got it and tried it on an old bash around knife I sat down and sharpened every other knife I own, all came up as sharp or sharper than when new..
------
'For best results remove foot from mouth before speaking'
spyken
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 29, 2002
- Messages
- 5,574
gajinoz,
the sharpmaker is one of the best/easiest way to sharpen. however, it is not at all easy to reprofile any steel on the sharpmaker, especially the newer and harder steels like VG10, S30V, CPM440V, CPM440V. In fact, I find it difficult to re-profile any steel on the sharpmaker - if the angle is slightly lower than that of the sharpmaker, than it is absolutely GREAT. If it is higher, you've got to put in a couple of hours of elbow grease.
that's where the diamond rods come into place - they reprofile within minutes. btw, if you're looking to get the diamond rods, email me - I have a spare pair.
cheers,
the sharpmaker is one of the best/easiest way to sharpen. however, it is not at all easy to reprofile any steel on the sharpmaker, especially the newer and harder steels like VG10, S30V, CPM440V, CPM440V. In fact, I find it difficult to re-profile any steel on the sharpmaker - if the angle is slightly lower than that of the sharpmaker, than it is absolutely GREAT. If it is higher, you've got to put in a couple of hours of elbow grease.
that's where the diamond rods come into place - they reprofile within minutes. btw, if you're looking to get the diamond rods, email me - I have a spare pair.
cheers,
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2001
- Messages
- 6,675
I love the SharpMaker. It's a no-muss, no-fuss solution.
Reprofiling will be a problem with the standard hones. Also, work the tip of the blade seperately from the rest of the blade. If you try to do the whole blade at once, and accidentally let the end of the blade slip off the edge of the hone. Do the tip as a second step.
Reprofiling will be a problem with the standard hones. Also, work the tip of the blade seperately from the rest of the blade. If you try to do the whole blade at once, and accidentally let the end of the blade slip off the edge of the hone. Do the tip as a second step.