Did I trim this double shoulder good?

[redsquid2]

I assumed the part in the top of this picture is the part that was closest to the head

 

[redsquid2]

I am just going to make taco sheaths but I had the general idea that the leather up higher on the back is better. Thank you for any useful feedback.

Please note there are some brands up near that top edge. I don’t know where a brand normally goes, but there are two or three brands close to that edge.

 

[Horsewright]

Brands are usually on the shoulder, ribs or hip. For instance we own both the left hip and the left shoulder for our brand. If you bought an animal and need to re brand it your brand is suppose to go higher than the old one if it goes in the same place. Don't know what help that is for ya.

From what I can see, looks like ya've got a pretty good double shoulder here with lots of usable leather. Yes the leather is better the closer to the backbone as a general rule but will also be more difficult to fold for making a taco sheath. Make sure you do that pretty darn damp and go a little bit at a time or it can crack the leather.

 

[redsquid2]

Brands are usually on the shoulder, ribs or hip. For instance we own both the left hip and the left shoulder for our brand. If you bought an animal and need to re brand it your brand is suppose to go higher than the old one if it goes in the same place. Don't know what help that is for ya.

From what I can see, looks like ya've got a pretty good double shoulder here with lots of usable leather. Yes the leather is better the closer to the backbone as a general rule but will also be more difficult to fold for making a taco sheath. Make sure you do that pretty darn damp and go a little bit at a time or it can crack the leather.

Thank you for the helpful information.

 

[w.deast]

I can't tell which way the grain is oriented in your picture. Some would trim the shoulder and lay out patterns so folds like a taco fold are perpendicular to the grain. Folding with the grain may make a weaker product. It probably wouldn't make a difference with one or two or ten sheaths but at some point it may.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

Brands are usually on the shoulder, ribs or hip. For instance we own both the left hip and the left shoulder for our brand. If you bought an animal and need to re brand it your brand is suppose to go higher than the old one if it goes in the same place. Don't know what help that is for ya.

From what I can see, looks like ya've got a pretty good double shoulder here with lots of usable leather. Yes the leather is better the closer to the backbone as a general rule but will also be more difficult to fold for making a taco sheath. Make sure you do that pretty darn damp and go a little bit at a time or it can crack the leather.

Do you ever cut a channel down the middle with a groover?

 

[Horsewright]

Do you ever cut a channel down the middle with a groover?

I use to and some would still crack, even when damp. So I got to the point these days that when I work on any taco style sheaths that are in a batch they are worked on first. I dunk the sheath completely in my water Pro Carv mixture. This is a quick dunk, in and out. I start the fold and then put just the fold in the water and then do a little more folding and then just the fold in the water and repeat till the fold is done. Usually two to three reps. I finish the fold on my tooling rock and use my slicking block to get it smooth and flat. I trim all uneven pieces and mark the welt. I then set them aside, preferably out in the sun, till the next day. I haven't cracked one in a very long time doing it this way. The groover just seemed redundant and unnecessary doing it this way and experience has pretty much proven that out.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

I use to and some would still crack, even when damp. So I got to the point these days that when I work on any taco style sheaths that are in a batch they are worked on first. I dunk the sheath completely in my water Pro Carv mixture. This is a quick dunk, in and out. I start the fold and then put just the fold in the water and then do a little more folding and then just the fold in the water and repeat till the fold is done. Usually two to three reps. I finish the fold on my tooling rock and use my slicking block to get it smooth and flat. I trim all uneven pieces and mark the welt. I then set them aside, preferably out in the sun, till the next day. I haven't cracked one in a very long time doing it this way. The groover just seemed redundant and unnecessary doing it this way and experience has pretty much proven that out.

Yeah, it's also a bit of a pain lining up the groove perfectly center. I still do it, because if I don't the cavity seeme larger and it alters the retention, but also just because I've been working with hermann oak shoulder and it's got a crazy firm temper.

All of that said, I think I'll try it your way on my next one. Just not sure at what part of the process I can work the water in because I have several stages of hand punching/transferring holes for the stitching and damp leather would get deformed pretty quickly.

 

[duramax]

Yeah, it's also a bit of a pain lining up the groove perfectly center. I still do it, because if I don't the cavity seeme larger and it alters the retention, but also just because I've been working with hermann oak shoulder and it's got a crazy firm temper.

All of that said, I think I'll try it your way on my next one. Just not sure at what part of the process I can work the water in because I have several stages of hand punching/transferring holes for the stitching and damp leather would get deformed pretty quickly.

I’ll toss in my .02 worth here . I groove three lines on mine. One down the center then one on each side of center line. I space the outer lines out according to how thick the knife is. Sometimes I run them 1/4” off the centerline. I find it really helps the fold. Then as Dave said above I take my time working the fold. Once dunked , I usually only add water with a brush or sponge.

 

[Horsewright]

I happened to be starting a batch of sheaths yesterday morning. This batch had one taco type sheath in it, one of my Slotted sheaths. Took a few pics to show my process of folding a sheath. Like duramax mentioned and in further answer to SwissHeritageCo I did use to do multiple grooves too. But I just stopped after I kinda developed this method as it just wasn't necessary anymore and didn't always work. Mostly it did but not always. This way always. This sheath is 7/8 oz Herman Oak and as mentioned by SwissHeritageCo a very firm temper.

Quick dunk in and out. Then I start shaping the fold with my fingers.

Thats as a bout as far as I go at first as I'm feeling some resistance particularly at the tip. So I put just the fold back in the water for a bit. I'll continue shaping with my fingers and might repeat the fold in the water if necessary. It wasn't here:

Shape more with the fingers and then finalize the fold with my slicking block. Important to note I'm not slicking the leather here. Just applying pressure to the fold. I'll slick the leather after the fold is made and the welt is marked.

Ya can see here after the sheath has been layed out flat again the almost box like fold that using the slicking stick makes.

Then I'll fold it again and let dry. Inside this time as out side in the sun was too windy and would of blown the sheath all around. While its drying I'll work on some of the other sheaths in this batch.

All dried.

Now a sharp eyed person might notice that there is a water mark left from just holding the fold area in the water. Not to worry when I dunk the finished sheath in the water again to wet mold it to the knife, that color difference will even out and go away. Hope this is helpful. As always its good to remember that this isn't the only way of doing it, its just my way. But it does work and work well for me in my shop.

 

[SwissHeritageCo]

I happened to be starting a batch of sheaths yesterday morning. This batch had one taco type sheath in it, one of my Slotted sheaths. Took a few pics to show my process of folding a sheath. Like duramax mentioned and in further answer to SwissHeritageCo I did use to do multiple grooves too. But I just stopped after I kinda developed this method as it just wasn't necessary anymore and didn't always work. Mostly it did but not always. This way always. This sheath is 7/8 oz Herman Oak and as mentioned by SwissHeritageCo a very firm temper.

Quick dunk in and out. Then I start shaping the fold with my fingers.

Thats as a bout as far as I go at first as I'm feeling some resistance particularly at the tip. So I put just the fold back in the water for a bit. I'll continue shaping with my fingers and might repeat the fold in the water if necessary. It wasn't here:

Shape more with the fingers and then finalize the fold with my slicking block. Important to note I'm not slicking the leather here. Just applying pressure to the fold. I'll slick the leather after the fold is made and the welt is marked.

Ya can see here after the sheath has been layed out flat again the almost box like fold that using the slicking stick makes.

Then I'll fold it again and let dry. Inside this time as out side in the sun was too windy and would of blown the sheath all around. While its drying I'll work on some of the other sheaths in this batch.

All dried.

Now a sharp eyed person might notice that there is a water mark left from just holding the fold area in the water. Not to worry when I dunk the finished sheath in the water again to wet mold it to the knife, that color difference will even out and go away. Hope this is helpful. As always its good to remember that this isn't the only way of doing it, its just my way. But it does work and work well for me in my shop.

Your tips are always helpful, I appreciate the time and energy Always fun to get a sneak peek into your shop and process. I actually have some bag kote on the way because of you.

Surprising to see just how defined that fold actually is even after you unfold the sheath, I need to grab a slicker because my glass one is awful.

duramax I had never considered running multiple channels before, excellent advice.

Thank you both!

 

[Horsewright]

Your tips are always helpful, I appreciate the time and energy Always fun to get a sneak peek into your shop and process. I actually have some bag kote on the way because of you.

Surprising to see just how defined that fold actually is even after you unfold the sheath, I need to grab a slicker because my glass one is awful.

duramax I had never considered running multiple channels before, excellent advice.

Thank you both!

Thanks glad to be of help. My slicker is a knife handle block of ligum vitae I got from Sheffield Knife Supply many many years ago. Just rounded the corners some.