Did Someone Threadlock Your Sebenza?

Lone_Wolfe

Lone_Wolfe

Mrs G.
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And now you need to get it loose, but don't want to send it to the mothership? Here's something I've done several times successfully, and just shared with a friend in here when he had a newly bought Seb he couldn't take apart......

Get a piece of SOFT wood like Pine, make sure it's clean. Fresh, damp wood works best. Lay the knife on it with the solid screw head side down. Press down hard with one hand, try to unscrew it with the other hand. You can also use a thin rubber mat on a countertop, but I've had the best success with fresh pine.
 
Too late. I just got a starbenza 25 and stripped the head trying to unscrew it. It was the last screw to get out, too. It's at CRK right now. It seems the head stripped pretty easily though.
 
Dhbranum said:
Too late. I just got a starbenza 25 and stripped the head trying to unscrew it. It was the last screw to get out, too. It's at CRK right now. It seems the head stripped pretty easily though.
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Bummer. :grumpy:

This trick is for when the screw and set screw are turning freely, but won't come apart.
 
I was going to try to polish it like one a guy from Texas posted. Since I had to send it in I'm getting the spa so I guess i'll have to carry awhile before I do the sanding. When I do try, hope I don't mess it up and have to send it in again!
 
Dhbranum said:
Too late. I just got a starbenza 25 and stripped the head trying to unscrew it. It was the last screw to get out, too. It's at CRK right now. It seems the head stripped pretty easily though.
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Easy fix tho. Do not sweat it. It will be as new when it gets back from CRK I am sure. Stay calm! :)
 
A 25-40 watt soldering iron is your best friend if you want to take apart any folder that has thread locking compound on the screws
 
Barry H said:
A 25-40 watt soldering iron is your best friend if you want to take apart any folder that has thread locking compound on the screws
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No doubt about that, my suggestion was for those of us who don't have a soldering iron. And it's effective.
 
I've had my best luck either the wood trick. I've tried a soldering iron a couple times with no success. The rest of the handle soaks up the heat too quickly it seems like. I've heard it works though so obviously I'm doing something wrong.
 
Lone_Wolfe said:
No doubt about that, my suggestion was for those of us who don't have a soldering iron. And it's effective.
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You don't need a soldering iron. All you need is a Bic lighter. It will get the screw hot enough to work.

If you need to be careful and not use direct flame you can use a hair dryer.
 
I've soaked knives in extra hot (not so hot that you burn yourself though) hot water to loosen threadlock before too. It's nice because it won't damage your knife
 
I have a 21 that has the slabs stonewashed and I have no choice but to use loctite on it. I can't help but wonder if the screw holes are too smooth to hold the screws without loosening. Perhaps a spa visit would fix this?
 
I have stripped quite a few screws on my 21s. Knowing that end users are going disassemble their knives, I don't understand why CR does not heat treat or case harden their screws. Soft stainless screws seem to be a weak spot on a great knife.
Perhaps Titanium screws?
 
From the people that make the stuff...

Here it is from the horses mouth. The Loctite corp..

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

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I've used the soldering iron many times with great success, make sure it's one of those gun shaped irons as they get hot enough quickly which is what you want. Also make sure the other side of the pivot screw is not in contact with anything that conducts heat stick to wood it's soft so it won't mar your knives finish or conduct the heat away showing you to quickly break down the adhesive properties of the red threadlocker.

First time I tried this I did it on the flat of my anvil and I couldn't get it hot enough, when I pulled it away the anvil was hot meaning it sucked all the heat from the knife. Tried on a 2x4 and it took a few minutes but when it released I was able to screw it apart, how this helps.
 
tacticalgearlover said:
I've soaked knives in extra hot (not so hot that you burn yourself though) hot water to loosen threadlock before too. It's nice because it won't damage your knife
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That's a good method for plains and graphics, but I wouldn't do it to my wood inlayed.
 
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