Did you ever get told to put your coat on before going out in the rain?

O

Oregon Duck

Joined
Sep 21, 1999
Messages
137
Seriously though folks. I have a Ka-Bar 1095 steel Warthog I am very fond of. My main complaint with it is the "powder coat" on the blade. It easily scratches and after it is scratched it is prone to corrosion.

Here is my question: Can this knife be saved? Well, less dramatically, can this knife be recoated? Is there a method of cold coating this knife or will it have to be disassembled and dipped in a hot solution and then baked or something. Do you know of anyone who'd recoat a fifty dollar knife for less than fifty dollars?

I'd also like to know if my second gen Ka-Bar's Sandvik stainless with its "passivation treatment" whatever that is, presents any coating challenges. I'd like to blacken this rather shiny knife. Suggestions appreciated.

Thanks.
 
After you find a scratch - coat the bare area with a touch of automotive paint - or nail polish - anything to seal that spot...

Recoating? No one does that... so your SOL unless you can devise your own coating. Spraypaint can work...

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I mean, if I went around saying I was an Emperor because some
moistened bint had lobbed a scimitar at me, people would put me away!

 
Ogre, if you buy some gun magazines, especially American Handgunner, you will find specialty refinishing shops that put on these propriatary coatings. You would have to send only the bare blade, and it is going to take some puzzling to determine which of these finishes is going to match your expectations. You can be absolutely certain that the one you want is out there...these new metal finishes are pretty standard.
 
I hate to say this but... live with it. Ka-Bar's finsh is the worst epoxy coat Ive seen. And the price a good shop will charge for a recoat is probably as much as the knife. And Ka-bars arent exactly easy to dissasemble either. I would personally recommend that if you hate that epoxy that much, get a Cammilus USMC. The Camillus has a parkerized finsh, which helps(somewhat) to prevent rust, and is greatly enhanced with a bit of oil.
 
There may be a way to powder coat your scratches and not have to disassemble or worry about getting your blade to hot.If you don't have acess to any powder paint go to a local tackel shop. You can buy various color in 3 or 4oz. jars.You can either heat your material with a cigerate liter or propane torch and dip it in the paint or sprinkle the paint on the blade and heat the paint up.It takes a little practice to find the right amount of time and heat to apply.If you get the paint to hot it will look real sandy. A good material to practice on are jig heads that way you can get used to what you're looking for and have some painted jig heads.
 
Well it seems to me that the recoating of a Kabar can be a DIY project.

1. Can't the existing powdercoat be removed with a CHEMICAL stripper without harming the blade and then airbrushed with primer and epoxy like any other steel? Seems like several thin coats with the edge masked off might do the trick. Opinions?

2. If not, can't the powdercoat be lightly SANDED for adhesion, primered and airbrushed with epoxy as above?

3. If none of the above, can't the blade be cold blued like a pistol?
 
:
Mr Duck:
If you try a search you may find your answer.I think I saw this somewhere not long ago and someone said there was a bake on finish you can do yourself.
After you have read the forums for a while you will see where a lot of people don't like CS Carbon V because it rusts so quickly.

I used the old Birchwood Casey Cold Blue and blued my CS Trailmaster.The blade wasn't any worse than many others about rusting then.
It has been very satisfactory.
Hope this helps.:-)

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>>>>---¥vsa---->®
Cornbread ain't s'possed ta be sweet!....Dagnabit gurl,whut did they teach you way up north in ....;) hehehe.


 
Yes you can lightly sand poder coating for better ahesian.But if you were to get a little to much powder on the blade it can be buffed out pretty good,I've personally don it. As for spraying it with an epoxy paint through and airbrush I would say be very,very careful.I tried spraying an epoxy based paint through one of my pasche airbrushes and spent a long time getting it back to functionig level.Besides if you can find a supplier you might want to experiment with some veined powders. They are cool. I've seen a red background with gold viens running through it and I've also seen some real nice hammer finishes.Either way you go practice on something first it'll save you a lot of frustration.

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