Did your ZT 300 come face shave sharp from Factory

Joined
Feb 9, 2009
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Hey everyone,

As some know I'm new to knives in general. I received my ZT 302 last week and love it. In the meantime I also received a Sypderco Military and Manix. Both these can shave arm hairs no issue, but my ZT 302 cannot.

Do I just need to run it over the fine Sharpmaker blocks, what angle?

Thanks
 
Probably just needs to have the primary edge touched up. I wouldn't use the 30 degree settings, that's mainly for the secondary bevel. I'd go with the 40 degree and touch up the primary edge. Use the coarse/medium ones and then the fine.

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My ZT301 was almost shaving sharp. Resharpened it by hand 15 degrees on a Fallkniven DC4 diamond whetstone. The S30V can take 15 degrees on each side, that's one of the benefits of such a super quality steel.
Can take some time however, took me about an hour and a half.
 
None of my 0300s came blazing Kershaw sharp, but, the edges weren't bad. All the 0200s I have had are a different story, all wicked sharp right out of the box. I chalked it up to the 0300 having a thicker edge and a little more Strider character. If you are familiar with Strider knives at all they are rarely ever wicked sharp right out of the box (figuratively, Striders don't come in a box ;)) and have relatively thick edges.
 
SpiralArchitect,

That's what I figured, I will learn my sharpmaker and then spend some time w/ the 302.
 
Mine were semi sharp. I either strop them or use a paper wheel with both methods providing laser beam edges.
 
IMHO~ I wouldn't attempt the 302 on a Sharpmaker, your looking at 3+ hours. Put a wider bevel on it by tilting the spine away from the rods, it will get it shaving, but it will make the micro bevel wider. But if shaving is what you want it should work without any real time put in. If you want to reduce the bevel, I'd use something else, the sharpmaker rods are just not coarse enough.
 
IMHO~ I wouldn't attempt the 302 on a Sharpmaker, your looking at 3+ hours. Put a wider bevel on it by tilting the spine away from the rods, it will get it shaving, but it will make the micro bevel wider. But if shaving is what you want it should work without any real time put in. If you want to reduce the bevel, I'd use something else, the sharpmaker rods are just not coarse enough.

Exactly my thoughts. A quick way to find out whether it hits the shoulder or the edge is to highlight the edge with a marker and see where the rods take off steel, and adjust your angle from there.
 
First thing I bought after I got my Sharpmaker was the "optional" :rolleyes: diamond rods. Sets the initial angle in a fraction of the time.
 
Ok, new to all this so thanks for all the input. No idea how to Strop or Paper Wheel, so maybe Diamond Rods are best option, or I'll just leave as is.

Would like it as sharp as my Manix though...
 
Ok, new to all this so thanks for all the input. No idea how to Strop or Paper Wheel, so maybe Diamond Rods are best option, or I'll just leave as is.

Would like it as sharp as my Manix though...

I believe the Spyderco Manix blade is a good deal thinner than the ZT, and thus the edge geometry is different.
 
My first ZT (a 0301) is on it's way to me now, but I sure would like to get and keep it sharp. I wonder how it would cut after a Krein regrind? Short of that, has anyone had good luck reprofiling it?
 
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