difference between 1095 and 1075 steel

less carbon in 1075, it won't hardnen to as high of max RC as 1095 (64RC
for 1075 vs 66RC for 1095).

Same HT as 1095: bring to 1425-1475F, hold for a few mins, quench in
150F oil . Having less carbon, it will be less prone to cracking
during quench, but still DON'T quench in water.

I'd temper @ 350F to get close to 60RC
 
The 10xx series steels aren't generally held to tight specs, but the main difference in true 1095 and true 1075 is the manganese content. 1095 has much less manganese and is thus not as deep hardening. That's why you often see 1095 listed as water hardening steel.
 
Carbon content is different too... 1095, since it's got more carbon in it then will go into solution to make martensite, will have carbides in it. Thus, edge holding will be better than with 1075.
 
The biggest difference is that the 1075 is close to the eutectic.It will reach critical temp.at a lower temperature and convert to martensite easier than 1095.The difference in the carbon content (.2%) is not enough to matter,since you will draw the temper down to Rc 58-59 usually.1095 has the sharpest nose for cooling and requires a more rapid quench.1075 is popular for swords and will not crack as easily as 1095.I love 1095,but it is an acquired skill to HT properly.1075 is a good starter steel,O-1 is even easier to learn on.
 
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