Difference in Factory Sheaths?

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Aug 1, 2006
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I was having lunch with my girlfriend (which we prepared with the help of a 3), and subsequently showed her the rest of my collection of ESEEs, and she brought up a good question. She was wondering why the 3 and 6 have different sheath materials than the textured Kydex of others like the HEST, 4, 5, et cetera, and it got me wondering as well.

The sheaths for the 3 and 6 are comparatively smooth, and, to be honest, I don't like them quite as much. Is there a reason for this difference, or was it just decided to differentiate these two models? I do notice that the 3 and 6's sheaths are offered in multiple colors, which is a cool difference.

Thanks in advance for the insight.

Take care and God bless.

KATN,

Wade
 
The 3 and 6 used molded plastic sheaths and the others use Kydex.

Derp; I see you've realized that. I'm not sure as to why they chose to use molded plastic instead of Kydex. I prefer Kydex, but a well-made molded plastic sheath ain't too bad either.
 
The 3 and 6 used molded plastic sheaths and the others use Kydex.

Thanks for the response.

I realize that there is a difference in the sheaths and what they're made from, I was wondering if there was a reason why.

I much prefer the Kydex sheaths of my HEST, 4, 5, and Junglas.

Also realized that I forgot to mention that the Izula also had a different, molded plastic sheath in my initial post.
 
Molds are expensive for the molded sheaths. Once the intial investment is there it can be more economical, but it's a big expense up front. The 5 used to come with the Eagle sheath and once that fell through a new sheath solution was required.
 
Thanks for the response.

I realize that there is a difference in the sheaths and what they're made from, I was wondering if there was a reason why.

I much prefer the Kydex sheaths of my HEST, 4, 5, and Junglas.

Also realized that I forgot to mention that the Izula also had a different, molded plastic sheath in my initial post.

Yeah I edited my post. I didn't quite read the post thoroughly enough.
 
Molds are expensive for the molded sheaths. Once the intial investment is there it can be more economical, but it's a big expense up front. The 5 used to come with the Eagle sheath and once that fell through a new sheath solution was required.

The Eagle sheath was nice but I like the way you can modify and accessorize the current Kydex sheath system. It is a much more flexible template.
 
another reason the 3 and 6 are molded plastic is that the military prefers it because it is more stable in extreme temperatures than kydex.

take it easy
cricket
 
another reason the 3 and 6 are molded plastic is that the military prefers it because it is more stable in extreme temperatures than kydex.

take it easy
cricket


i was about to post this...as this is what i have heard as well...

with that said...i much prefer the kydex of my 4 and 5 vs the molded plastic of the 3. I feel like the retention is much better.
 
My experience is limited but, I really like the injection molded sheath of my E-6. Sheath retention is rock solid. Better than the zytel sheath that came with my F1.
 
another reason the 3 and 6 are molded plastic is that the military prefers it because it is more stable in extreme temperatures than kydex.

take it easy
cricket

Something to take into consideration if you're planning on leaving it in your vehicle in a hot environment. Kydex will flatten out (or want to return to it's original state). It will loose sharp angles designed for a tight fit or retention.:grumpy:
 
yes about kydex sheaths ive mentioned on another thread about starting to make them myself and recieved alot of great pointers, but now i have another question. I really dont want to buy a big belt sander or jigsaw.

has anyone used sand paper and or a old fasion saw? if so did it work or should i just suck it up and buy some power tools. I dont mind the extra labor if i can get the same results. also i am working with very limited space.
 
yes about kydex sheaths ive mentioned on another thread about starting to make them myself and recieved alot of great pointers, but now i have another question. I really dont want to buy a big belt sander or jigsaw.

has anyone used sand paper and or a old fasion saw? if so did it work or should i just suck it up and buy some power tools. I dont mind the extra labor if i can get the same results. also i am working with very limited space.

I made alot of my first sheaths with just a Dremel. Cutting wheels work great on kydex and the sanding drums finish the edges nicely. I even drilled my rivet holes with it.

A coping saw http://www.google.com/products/catalog?hl=en&expIds=17259,17315,23628,23670,24472,25041,26761,26849,27147,27520&sugexp=ldymls&xhr=t&q=coping+saw&cp=9&safe=off&rlz=1R2ADFA_enUS388&wrapid=tljp1293725778279012&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=10014848104719971710&ei=W7AcTZyrE4Odlge0tOysDg&sa=X&oi=product_catalog_result&ct=result&resnum=3&sqi=2&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAg#will be best for a hand saw. The thin, narrow blade will have less drag and be more responsive to angles making for less hand sanding.
 
Thanks shotgunner11

I just saw a dremel trio on tv the other night thought that may work, I think ill give that a go! when drilling the holes for the rivet if im using a CKK Rivet/Eyelet Flaring Dies - Master Series - #8 - (1/4) then which drill bit would i use? one that size im thinking but in order for the rivet to fit snug should i drill a smaller hole? all the videos ive watched dont say what size to drill the holes.
 
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