Different Edges For Each Blade

me2

Joined
Oct 11, 2003
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Just wondering if I'm the only one to do this. I recently started putting very different edges on my Parker Cutlery trapper. On the clip blade I started using a low angle, about 8 degrees per side, and a very coarse finish, straight off the coarsest stone I have, a 250/1000 grit King combination waterstone. This is first edge I've ever done that actually bothered me a little bit. One the spey blade, I go with a 15-17 degree per side (dps) edge angle, and finish all the way to a King 4000 grit stone. Both edges are (were) very sharp and even the coarse edge would push cut into notebook paper an inch away from where I was holding it. I've started favoring the multiblade patterns for this versatility. I'm leaning toward a large Case stockman, just to have more options, though I prefer 2 blade patterns, such as my old Schrade/Old Timer peanut, and my dad's old Parker Cutlery trapper.
 
Stockmans are great! I love having the option of sheepsfoot blades, especially because many of them can be pinched open. I recommend them as I don't have much use for the big spey blade on trappers. But I do also like two-bladed jacks. Honestly, I can't pick which one i like more. Usually I'll go with a smaller stockman or a peanut.
Regarding edges, on a stockman the sheepsfoot has a very thick edge while the spey has a very thin one. The clip usually stays normal (20 degrees)
The peanut has a normal working edge on the clip but a very, very thin edge on the pen for fine tasks.
There have been threads like this before... but now that I think about it they are probably hard to search for.
 
I didn't notice the edges on my old stockman being that different in bevel geometry, but it's the only one I've had. When I had it, I kept all three blades at different angles, but the finish was all the same. This is a new level of edge sharpening geekery. Thin edge, low angle, and coarse finish coupled with moderate angle, equally thin edge, and high polish. I've even gone so far as to try to decide which blade steels to use for each individual blade.
 
Nothing new with the idea of different edges for different blades. Case did it years ago with some of their stockman patterns.
Here is one, an old 6447. Note the spey blade is marked "FOR FLESH ONLY". The story is these blades are ground thinner with a different edge angle, about 17°, and are a bit harder than the other blades.

_IGP1792.jpg
 
Nothing new with the idea of different edges for different blades. Case did it years ago with some of their stockman patterns.
Here is one, an old 6447. Note the spey blade is marked "FOR FLESH ONLY". The story is these blades are ground thinner with a different edge angle, about 17°, and are a bit harder than the other blades.

_IGP1792.jpg

The blades that is marked "For Flesh Only" was used by farmers and cowboys for castrating calves. Hence the Pattern name "Stockman" or "Stock Knife". They marked the blade because nobody wanted to later peel they're apple with the blade they had been using on cattle. Not only Case but most all cutlery companys marked the blade this way.
 
I always kept a different edge on the blades of my stockman. Very sharp on the main clip, pretty sharp but higher angle on the sheepsfoot, and kind of dull on the spey since it was my putty knife/scraper and whatever blade.

On my peanut I keep very sharp edge on the clip, and a lesser but still pretty sharp on the pen. Since the peanut has such a fine pointy tip, it's my main fine cutting blade, while the pen is my tape cutter and box opener.

Carl.
 
I haven´t tried yet putting different edges on the blades at multibladed knife. I keep mine at 20° per each blade side, all in all 40°. But it´s an interessting thougt! Maybe I gonna try it out on one of mine :)

Kind regards
Andi
 
Hey there me2, you mention and interesting concept here and one I have not given much thought too. Arathol also happens to reference one of my all time favorite edc's, the Case 64047P Stockman.. When my spey(fleshing) blade starts to get dull I typically just give her a little time on my old leather strope until the edge starts to brighten up and come back. If she needs more aggressive methods than I'll go with either my old moon stone with a tad bit of mineral oil or water or a few strips of 600 grit to 1000 grit metal sand paper with oil or water as well. Either way I strive for about 16 -18 degrees on each side of the edge. This gives me very sharp and long lasting results.

Best Always,
Anthony
 
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I leave all my spey blades with an obtuse angle no matter what the pattern as they tend to be my 'abuse' blades. Wharnies and sheepsfoots are kept sharper but at wider angle than my clips at about 25 degrees because the materials they tend to cut are generally tougher stuff. (nylon straps, dirty hemp rope etc.)My clips are as close to scalpels as I can get 'em.
 
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