Difficult/Daunting to learn how to maintain Convex edge?

T

T-Dog

Joined
Nov 28, 2009
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I am going to be ordering a couple of Barkies today and am wondering from those of you who have had to make the journey into stropping a convex edge into hair popping condition is it quite an art and difficult to master. I am a little embarassed to say that all of my other blades that are typical v grind from kitchen knives on down are benefit from my Edge Pro Apex system. It puts a great edge on them with little skill and effort; I am a traditionalist on most things such as canvas tents and dutch ovens but the APEX does so good an is so easy. I am not afraid to say that I am a little intimidated on a new kind of edge...should I be?

I was planning on getting both the otter box field maint kit from KSF and their longer standard hone for at home, do you think this is a good start?
 
I use the kit from KSF for my convex edges as well. Like you I was a little intimidated at first but I can tell you now that it is my favorite method for sharpening. In fact I have just started to use it for all my edges and it keeps em all razor sharp. I only really use the sandpapaer now and then on my fixed bladed as they get a real beating sometimes. However, for the most part, if you maintain your knives well, the stropping compound is all you need. I just look for any rollig and if I see any I pop out the strop and quickly have my knife back to a razor. Works very well for me on all my knives (busse, sebenza, spydercos, barky etc :))
 
T-Dog said:
I am going to be ordering a couple of Barkies today and am wondering from those of you who have had to make the journey into stropping a convex edge into hair popping condition is it quite an art and difficult to master. I am a little embarassed to say that all of my other blades that are typical v grind from kitchen knives on down are benefit from my Edge Pro Apex system. It puts a great edge on them with little skill and effort; I am a traditionalist on most things such as canvas tents and dutch ovens but the APEX does so good an is so easy. I am not afraid to say that I am a little intimidated on a new kind of edge...should I be?

I was planning on getting both the otter box field maint kit from KSF and their longer standard hone for at home, do you think this is a good start?
Click to expand...

Dont be intimidated bud, its just a knife.

I have a hone and compound from Lee Valley along with some of the sanding "films" from 3M. They work great.

BTW, its not hard at all. In the field I strop my F1 on the inside of my leather belt and it brings it back to servicable sharp in a few minutes. Its not rocket science. You will be pleasantly surprised.
 
Thanks for the peace of mind, sometimes (well most the time) I tend to overthink things. Here comes the leap.
 
You can even use sandpaper and a phone book if you want to go cheap. I personally just free hand on bench hones to touchup and sharpen convex knives. It's not hard at all to do.
 
Thalestin said:
I use the kit from KSF for my convex edges as well. Like you I was a little intimidated at first but I can tell you now that it is my favorite method for sharpening. In fact I have just started to use it for all my edges and it keeps em all razor sharp. I only really use the sandpapaer now and then on my fixed bladed as they get a real beating sometimes. However, for the most part, if you maintain your knives well, the stropping compound is all you need. I just look for any rollig and if I see any I pop out the strop and quickly have my knife back to a razor. Works very well for me on all my knives (busse, sebenza, spydercos, barky etc :))
Click to expand...

Convex edges are very EASY to maintain. Especially in the milder steels like A-2. :thumbup:
 
by luck i saw this post since i was going to ask the same ? got a barkie small canadian lsat wk.usually on these i just rebevel to a standard sin ce they have served me well for 40yrs.however this was a 3 in. blade & angle was fairly acute.i decided to get you guys info on this. i knew i could touch it up by stropping on cardboard charged with crocus powder but eventually a relief of bevel would be required. this is necessary on all knives sooner or later.on regular bevels i use a machine then progress thru diamonds from coarse to xtrafine, then to stropping. in fact on my new queens [factory edge dull as brick] & g.e.c.s i put on an acute bevel before i put them into service. thanks for the info since i did'nt want to take the bevel off of this little beauty.
 
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DennisStrickland said:
by luck i saw this post since i was going to ask the same ? got a barkie small canadian lsat wk.usually on these i just rebevel to a convex sin ce they have served me well for 40yrs.however this was a 3 in. blade & angle was fairly acute.i decided to get you guys info on this. i knew i could touch it up by stropping on cardboard charged with crocus powder but eventually a relief of bevel would be required. this is necessary on all knives sooner or later.on convex bevels i use a machine then progress thru diamonds from coarse to xtrafine, then to stropping. in fact on my new queens [factory edge dull as brick] & g.e.c.s i put on an acute bevel before i put them into service. thanks for the info since i did'nt want to take the bevel off of this little beauty.
Click to expand...

BRKT's are very easy to sharpen, sandpaper and a soft backing, lay the knife on its main bevel, lift spine until blade's edge makes contact with paper and stroke. Their convex grind is one of the best I have seen but sometimes they make the final bevel too thin so doing your convexing around 15-18 deg won't take away from its final sharpness but it will help with chipping and rolling.
 
Try a auto parts store first they will have finer sandpaper.
 
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