Difficulties Etching.

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Jun 27, 2010
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I can't remember the name of the etcher, maybe the Etch-o-matic one? With the directions to make it at home.

Anyway, I tested it without a stencil, the DC gets depth, and the AC blackens it.

However, I just put a stencil on a test chunk of metal. I used the DC for approximately 1-1.5 minutes, and then AC off and on for about 4-5 seconds each time. The blackening did not work through the whole stencil, it fried the stencil, dulling it.

I taped the stencil down as flat as possible, then used the electrolyte (1 cup water, 1 tsp vinegar, 1/2 tsp salt - Alden's recipe) on the felt. There was not any electrolyte between the stencil and metal. That was an assumption I made...



Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong? Below is a pic of what the makers mark should look like. I know it has some thin parts, but I've seen some really small and detailed marks, so I'm thinking mine should work.

 
After a slightly more thorough inspection of the steel, I noticed the DC didn't make into the thin lines, but I'm thinking the AC should still have burnt through the stencil right?

I still can't figure out why it would have fried the stencil that much....maybe not enough electrolyte?
 
Your stencil may have become clogged with oxidation coming off the blade when you did the DC etch. I try to get deep marks and sometimes have to clean my stencil 2 or 3 times to get a mark as deep as I like them. I use a q-tip with rubbing alcohol to gently clean the stencil as needed during etching.
I can usually hear the sizzling taper off as the stencil gets dirtier.
If your stencil is getting too hot you should use shorter taps or presses. My DC etcher is 18V and I press for about a second, let off for about the same, and repeat. Contact longer than about 3-5 seconds at a time would fry a stencil in short order with mine, I think.
 
Brent, make sure to keep the pad damp during use. Dip it in the etchant and wipe excess off on the rim of the etchant container. You should see a little bit of a puddle around the pad while you are using it. Did the D.C. etch the steel okay? Have you checked your output voltage? My etcher is around 18volts. When you get a sucessful etch be sure to clean the stencil in clean water.

~Alden
 
Alden, other than the thin parts, the DC etched pretty well. Probably not as deep as I should have, but it did get in there a little. Fried the stencil pretty good though, all the more reason to fix my light box so I don't have to keep bugging you. I'll give that stuff a shot.

I'll probably try Justin's tips too, when I am able to remake a stencil.

I'm waiting to finish my WIP for when I get a stencil on my knife.
 
You left the pad on in DC for over a whole minute without taking it off? In both currents you should only etch for a few seconds at a time until you reach your desired total time. Any more, burns the stencil quick. Especially at higher voltages.

The stencil looks to be some of the problem. Those fine lines should be much brighter white in order to etch. Try a few more seconds exposure, and make sure to develop the stencil for at least 2-3 minutes.

It also looks like you used too much electrolyte, it's pretty cloudy. Less is more. I moisten the pad then touch it to a dry paper towel. You will have less problems if you get it just barely damp. You can not get too little electrolyte on the pad, but you can easily get too much.
 
I have no idea how homemade electrolytes work, but your times are HUGE.

I personally etch and mark @ about 12 - 14v for a grand total of about 10 seconds.

10 relatively quick touches DC, then the same AC.

I use store bought electrolyte. (TUS Tech)
It's inexpensive, and lasts forever.

I also use store bought stencils, I got sick of cruddy results with the blue sheets.
I have all the stuff to make my own, and made a bunch, but since I switched to these brownish colored ones from TUS, I have been way happier with my results.
 
Can you show a picture of your clean stencil? Maybe with a light source behind it if possible.

Looks to me like the stencil was over exposed and not all of the film was removed from the screen during developing.

My stencils always look a little fried (not that bad) but a wipe with neutralizer should clean them right up. You could be frying them because of holding the etcher on so long, as others have said your times are WAY too long.

I go 3-5 seconds with the etch-o-matic, you should hear a slight sizzle while it's cooking the logo in. If not, you are not getting the contactor wet enough or your stencil is not allowing enough to get through (AKA: overexposed/under developed)
 
Can you show a picture of your clean stencil? Maybe with a light source behind it if possible.

Looks to me like the stencil was over exposed and not all of the film was removed from the screen during developing.

My stencils always look a little fried (not that bad) but a wipe with neutralizer should clean them right up. You could be frying them because of holding the etcher on so long, as others have said your times are WAY too long.

I go 3-5 seconds with the etch-o-matic, you should hear a slight sizzle while it's cooking the logo in. If not, you are not getting the contactor wet enough or your stencil is not allowing enough to get through (AKA: overexposed/under developed)

The stencil is pretty toasted, i couldn't clean it. I'm pretty sure it was developed well enough. I'm also very positive that my etching technique (or lack of) was my problem.
 
I put the pad on and count to 5 off for 5 and on for 5 and do maybe 10 cycles for a deep etch. Probably a total of 20 seconds. Then I do 5 that way on AC. I also use 12v and just salt water. You 60+ second etch with on breaks fried everything and didn't allow any gas off. Sorry.
 
i had the same problem with mine thats why i went to a stamp i do it hot so its good and deep and black
 
just go to www.lectroetch.com
have them make you a stencil,they will last alot longer ,more durable,i had same probs and i had them make my stencil, no problems now
or 1-440-934-1249
hope this helps regards bill
p.s ,just buy a bottle of electrolyte, home brew works for some not for all
my machine costs me around 65.00 and came with everthing but the stencil
 

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