digital camera for knives

G L Drew

G L Drew

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Messages
4,740
Hey guys; does anyone have stong opinions they would like to share about the right digital camera to buy for those difficult knife photos? (and something that could still be used for family shots?)
 
Thanks guys; great information. Knife people are the most generous I know to share this kind of information with each other!
 
One thing to make sure of; Make sure it has "Macro" capabilities and will not take a picture if not in focus. Nothing more frustrating than to think you are taking a great picture to find out later while at your computer it was out of focus.

Something you may not have thought about, is just using a scanner. I routinely use my scanner to photograph some objects, it has a fair depth of focus and will always be in focus at the point the object is touching the glass.

Another feature you might want to ask about is, spot meter. I had an Olympus E10 that worked great and now use a Nikon D70. Good Luck.

thenson
 
BladeGoblin said:
Isn't this the custom knife forum?
Click to expand...

Yes, and before I read some of the picture taking tutorials on this forum I could never have taken a pic like this:D Especially with a $169 camera!

RCGentDS.jpg
 
I've tested quite a few digital cameras and have read countless reviews....(which is what you should do...but I'll spare you the time)

Listen to what Coop says....only thing I'll add is that the "breaker point" seems to be at 4 MegaPixels. Almost all the cameras above 4 MP will have the features you want to take good knife pics. Most of the cameras below 4 MP will lack seriously in features, and the construction won't be as good, etc.

I've used my digicam in "Full-Auto" point-n-shoot mode with great results. It's not as good as a Canon 10D in full auto, but much better than a 3MP point-n-shoot. Point being, you can take good knife pics with a point-n-shoot as long as it's a good one (over 4 MP, IMHO).


Here's what I would do:


1 - go to a local camera outfitter. Pick up and play around with any and all cameras 4 MP and above. Try to find one that "fits you". Isn't too small...nor too large. Has lots of features....not too complicated.

2 - decide what kind of batteries you want to use. I will only use rechargable AA - that limits my choices. If you don't know anything about batteries...skip this step. Otherwise, do some thinking about it...

3 - Narrow it down to 3-5 choices that are still within your budget. (should be at least $250 - $400) Stick with the major brand names: Canon, Nikon, Sony, Olympus, Kodak, etc...

4 - Go to www.depreview.com and read the reviews for each of your choices. Try to narrow it down to 2. Go to the individual forums (on dpreview) and read what people have to say about it. Pay attention to the complaints. There is a lot of "my camera is the best" talk there....so try not to get too swayed by it.

5 - Go back to the store to confirm your final choice.


You can sometimes get a good deal online on a new one through ebay, etc. There are also certain online shops that are better than others...so come back here and let us know before you buy online - if the price is too good to be true, it usually is.

Otherwise, support the local camera outfitter, who will be more likely/willing to do any warranty/repair work on it later (if ever needed).
 
Another vote to listen to what Mr Cooper has to say. He's been in the trade long enough to know whatof he speaks. And his photos prove it.

The two threads on "No Frills" lighting in Coop's post are among those linked from my "To Create Better Knife Photos" sig link below. Check out that sig link -- it's a compendium of quite a number of knife photography tutorials, threads, and webpages.

As noted, scanners work for knife images. The top image below is a scan of a Brian Wagner (Oku here on BFC) Okuden utility knife in A2 steel. The second image is of a Nick Wheeler 10-inch square-nose chopper and was taken offhand with a 4 megapixel Nikon Coolpix 4300 pocket camera. The camera is discussed in the Japan travelogue webpage also linked in my sig below.

Final two-cents worth of advice is to:
  1. look into a tripod to handle slower shutter speeds induced by not using on-camera flash
  2. study up on lightbox (also called "softbox") diffusers.

Brian%20Wagner%20-%20Okuden%20Utility%20v2.jpg


INFIcoot-Wheeler.jpg
 
Some of these guys are MUCH smarter than me when it comes to technical stuff, but somehow I survive. Thanks for the thumbs up. Daniel's recommendations are perfecto.

I bought a used Sony 3.1mp DSC-S75 on eBay with a tripod and a card and a bag and extra software for only $175.00 shipped. I am going to show you how good this camera can take a photo with decent inexpensive lighting. Hang tight.

Coop
 
Coop,

Thanks so much, and Murray, you also. I'm in the process of building one, it's a combination of your light bar, Coop and Murray's box.

My main concern is the material that covers the frame...Murray uses Spandex:eek: and you a white garbage bag...I can't find spandex easily and what I've found is that there are two types and I'd get the wrong one...and would like some thing a bit more substantial/permanent than the garbage bag. What other material could I use(would white muslin work) and what properties does this material have to have and what is it's job??? Thanks to you both, Preston
 
i need to read up on this stuff as well...you guys are great. thanks for all the tips. i'm also thinking about buying a digital camera so i can start taking pics of my own knives. the suggestions here will definitely minimize the trouble of choosing a camera.
 
pjsjr said:
Coop,
What other material could I use(would white muslin work) and what properties does this material have to have and what is it's job??? Thanks to you both, Preston
Click to expand...

I use heavy tracing paper, which I pin to the top on my light box. I bought a roll of heavy tracing paper from an art supply shop, I can cut multiple lengths, its pretty durable, cheapish and you can experiment with multiple layers to get the best match to your light set up.

Pic of set up below (following Coops guidelines) with a single layer sheet, I now use multipl layers full length and get results like the picture at the bottom.

Stephen

Image-DA093C7E6CB411D9.jpg


Dunn-fin.jpg
 
Thanks, Stephen F...I've been experimenting with a white shower curtain liner, while awaiting Coop's reply. I'll give the tracing paper a try...I'm thinking that his answer is going to be what you spoke to...that it will depend on the lighting and the subject and the desired effect. Those are a lot of variables for this rookie to deal with:rolleyes:.

Great knife, and photo...I've seen others of yours...great taste(much like mine, however, I have a CAOABI...champange appetite...you know the rest).

Preston
 
Good stuff, guys. The diffuser I use is from a graphic arts supply, but the same thing is available from an art supply store called 'draftsman's velum'. It's just a bit more opaque than Stephen's tracing paper.

OK, let's do some bottom feeding....

Here is the setup: ONE single 'Fluorex' 65w outdoor fluorescent lamp. I saw these last week at home depot. They are all over eBay as well. Shining through a diffuser. (Use anything you want to support it.) Photo of my Sony 3.3mp DSC-S70 camera on a tripod. (This shot taken with my Canon) No extra lighting imposed. Notice the mirror refectors I use to get light back into the front side. Use aluminum foil if you like.

orig.jpg


OK, here is the shot of the knife. I took it at full resolution, then using my ACDSee photo editor (not Photoshop), I cropped, auto corrected the image (color, contrast, etc--all in one touch) and resized it down with no resharpening.

I also used the camera on auto mode at 100 ISO and auto white balance. Super simple.

orig.jpg


(Chinese Paul Chen 'Stardock' knife. I like it. :)) Nice colors. See the blade grinds well and there is no hot spots or dark areas throughout the blade grinds. This is the key with a good diffuser.

Lastly here is the camera I used. I don't endorse everyone going out and gambling on used stuff, but if you are savvy and are willing to take a chance you can get a fantastic deal on good older cameras. This one is about four years old and does the job well. I happen to like this model because of the exceptional lens it has on it. It allows more shutter speed because it gets a lot of light in. (this shot taken with my Canon 20D). Notice the difference in color on the backgrounds. There is no escaping what a pro-quality setup can produce. The above shot is acceptable, if not perfect.

orig.jpg


Your results may vary... ;)


Coop
 
I, for one, vote for a "Coop's Corner":D Thanks Coop!

I did look at the Velum...largest was 24" x 36", my frame is 30" x 30". Maybe I'll just cut the frame down and make life simple. If you think that 24" x 30" would be an OK size. Preston

Edited: I've found larger Velum, P
 
Hey Coop - thanks for all the good tips you have been giving out to all us camera and light mentally defecient folks. I do have a question for you if you don't mind. In the lighting thread you have up where you took the pic of Nick Wheelers knife showing the hamon you mentioned a black reflector. I have a BAD case of duh's ---- Would or could you show a simpleton what and how this is used w/ one of your cameras. A picture is worth 10,000 words - or in my case multiply that by the same number. Thanks
 
Bill here is the post in question: Using black to highlight.

I describe it well. I simply held a 6"x24" long black foamboard piece inside the tent shadowing the blade ONLY. It gave it that effect. It's doesn't always work as effectively, but that bowie had a good polish on it.

Mods, feel free to move this to Gadgets and Gear...

Coop
 
I have a Nikon and am very happy with the picture quality and auto settings. Great info here guys, thanks for sharing! :thumbup:
 
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