disappearing Damascus

A druid

A druid

Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Messages
761
please do not laugh at me. I'm used to dealing with folding knives with traditional high-end steals,I have a small fixed blade knife made of mixed 1090 and 1080 steals it was not advertised as Damascus certainly not highcontrast Damascus, just mixed steel the blade had a webwork of fine Damascus type lines on the surface, as well as tiny crevices in indentations imperfections in the blade surface.

anyway now you get to the fun part. I decided to try to use various methods the most effective when of which was 600 grit sandpaper to polish the blade with the idea of bringing out the pattern more. Instead on the one-sided in working with the pattern but not the inclusions have all but disappeared is there some kind etching process that is used to bring out Damascus will would your suggestions at any be.

more background, I trade a decent production folder for this knife. It seems to be a legitimate custom in other respects. it has nice snake with scaleswith copper pins
fits comfortably in the hand and is well-balanced.

I had no idea what's actually going on here:confused:
 
The steel you describe is pattern welded damascus IMO. You just sanded away the visible pattern, next time you'll know better. ;)
If I were you I'd sand and polish the blade as good as I could to obtain a smooth and uniform surface. After that I'd clean it good (with soap, etc...) and etch it back. I use H-Cl acid (don't know the english name) because it's what I can buy in my hardware store, you can ask on the "Shop Talk" subforum what agent is best for etching damascus.
After etching for a few minutes (or more if you like a deep pattern) what I usually do is neutralize the acid with bicarbonate soda, wash it with soap and eventually lightly polish the "highs" of the pattern with a very fine sandpaper (I use 8000) to obtain a more scratch resistant finish.
This is just amateur advice, please ask the question in the shop talk subforum!
BTW, you could also send it to a knifemaker for re-polish and etching.
 
You can use muriatic acid or ferric chloride (circuit board etchant-my favorite) to bring the pattern back.............soak it for about 10 min, take it out, wipe off the black crap, decide if you want it deeper, and either put it back in, or clean it really good with soap and water and then acetone, to get all the acid off..........thats what I do.:o
 
my concern is to be able to reattach the blade seems a worthwhile project without damaging the snakewood scales as for returning it to the maker this knife was traded to me by someone who caught it in a trade. It has no maker's Mark and I don't think anybody has any idea where it came from. At this point.http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421790
 
You don't need to take the scales off. Etch the blade and the butt and be carefull so the acid doesn't touch the scales. I etched a blade without touching the handle, I used a tall glass, put the knife tip down and marked what level I wanted the acid, then took the knife out, pour the acid in the glass and put the knife back carefully.
From that pic I think it's a sort of cable damascus, with a few bad welds (the imperfectons). After you etch it, make sure you get all the acid off afterwards, if the bad welds are not cleaned propperly I bet they'll get worse over time because of oxydation. After etching and cleaning, oil the blade propperly.
 
I'm pretty sure that is a karambit made by Daniel Koster.
Cable damascus and snakewood scales.
 
what I plan to do good under RadioShack get some of that etching solution makes it four to one into a premeasured glass cup carefully keep the knife at the desired level straight at the top flat grind in this case for four minutes.take it out, spray with windex rinse Sprague and with windex wash and soapy water.hope for the best and chalk it up to experience.I will try tape off the handle as an added precaution. We'll try to post a picture to when I'm done

thanks for giving you the name of the knife maker that is good know
 
A druid said:
......spray with windex rinse Sprague and with windex wash and soapy water.hope for the best and chalk it up to experience.I will try tape off the handle as an added precaution. We'll try to post a picture to when I'm done

thanks for giving you the name of the knife maker that is good know
Click to expand...

Wayne Goddard told me to neutralize the etchant with TSP, baking soda will also work, I don't believe that Windex will do the trick, but I could be wrong.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
shappa said:
I'm pretty sure that is a karambit made by Daniel Koster.
Cable damascus and snakewood scales.
Click to expand...

BINGO! That's what I thought the first time I saw it. Has Mr. Koster's flair to it!
 
All of the above sound good to me.
But how about starting with the knife level in the container and then adding the echant until you reach the proper level?
 
The use of windex is an acceptable neutralizer for etchants. It is the ammonia in the windex that kills the etchant. I have had to re etch a couple of knives with nice handles still attached. i painted the areas i did not want etched with clear fingernail polish. The fingernail polish acts as a resist and the etchant will not take it off. When you are satisfied with the etch, neutralize it and remove the fingernail polish with acetone. I used this on stabilized wood but I make no guarenties it will not harm the snakewood. i don't think it will if you oil it really well when done. i have use acetone to do a rapid dry on green wood before. it sucks all the moisture right out. Any how good luck, by the way it is a cable damascus blade.

Chuck
 
The guys here have it right.

Sand to 600 grit
Dip in Ferric Chloride (PCB Etchant) for a few minutes
Pull out and rinse with Windex
Lightly polish
Repeat until you get the desired darkness/contrast


Or, you could send it to me and I will do all the above for free as well as add my makers mark. :thumbup:

Best of luck.

Thanks!
 
Dan,

Really excellent of you to take on a project resulting from mishandling of the material, and to add your mark to the blade, as well!

You really are a credit to the community.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson
 
Thanks for the kind words, guys.


Well, here it is:



attachment.php


IIRC, this damascus was made by welding three separate lengths of multi-strand cable together in a giant twist. That's why you see different color "bands". As far as I can tell, this cable is 1080 or similar low alloy, high carbon steel. Definitely hard and holds its edge.

I etched my logo "just enough to mark it" (circular "K" near the handle).

Cleanup on this blade should be done with a light metal polishing compound. Personally I use "Nevr Dull" - available at most hardware stores.


Let me know if that's what you wanted, A druid.
 
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