disappearing Damascus

Joined
Aug 19, 2005
Messages
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please do not laugh at me. I'm used to dealing with folding knives with traditional high-end steals,I have a small fixed blade knife made of mixed 1090 and 1080 steals it was not advertised as Damascus certainly not highcontrast Damascus, just mixed steel the blade had a webwork of fine Damascus type lines on the surface, as well as tiny crevices in indentations imperfections in the blade surface.

anyway now you get to the fun part. I decided to try to use various methods the most effective when of which was 600 grit sandpaper to polish the blade with the idea of bringing out the pattern more. Instead on the one-sided in working with the pattern but not the inclusions have all but disappeared is there some kind etching process that is used to bring out Damascus will would your suggestions at any be.

more background, I trade a decent production folder for this knife. It seems to be a legitimate custom in other respects. it has nice snake with scaleswith copper pins
fits comfortably in the hand and is well-balanced.

I had no idea what's actually going on here:confused:http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=421790 I've included a link for explanation purposes only. I was unable to get an actual picture of myself.
 
Ferric chloride : water (1:3) ratio is recommended.

Ferric Chloride is available at Radio Shack under "Circuit Board Etchant."
 
thank you for a timely response,my next question was going to be where do you find such acids:)
 
A few cautions. First, the ferric chloride has to be neutralzed after use. Second, it will eat the brass pins. You'll have to at least protect them. Third, if you don't remove the handles and some ferric gets under the scales, it will continue to eat (rust) the steel.

Lastly, I hope the snakewood is stabilized. The stuff cracks just looking at it so be careful about soaking it in anything. The steel appears to be cable damascus. The lines you see are not from different steels so much as weld lines where the strands were welded together.

Disclaimer. I'm an average knife maker with less that average experience with damascus and cable. Just wanted to warn you about mistakes I've made or seen.

Rob!
 
You can mix the Ferric Chloride 1:3 and apply it with a Q-tip,rubbing all around as you develop the pattern (keep the point downward,and do this over a plastic bowl).Don't get it where you don't want it - on the scales and up in the bolster/guard area.Tape these off tightly with electrical tape before doing the FC.Once the pattern is showing up enough,rinse the blade and then spray with windex or rinse with TSP.The FC has to be neutralized.
 
Yep, that is definately a cable damascus blade.

Generally the lines and contrast is due to decarburization during the welding, so there is little difference in color. if you want to get that pattern to jump out, you are in for few cycles. If you have a welding supply store in the area, see if they carry stainless steel pickling paste. We use that for removing scale after welding stainliess in the food process industry, I use it quite a bit for etching. it can be painted on a blade, and usually won't run into areas you don't want etched. I also like it because it is an actual acid, not a salt, and can be completely neutralized with baking soda.

first, Mask off anything that you don't want to be in contact with the acid. Clear nail polish and superglue are both good at resisting acid, the nail polish can be removed with acetone later, superglue can actually make a nice handle coating(there was a how to in Blade mag a few years back).

Sand the blade to 600 grit, and clean with a degreaser.
Paint the acid on to the blade, and let stand for about 5 min(dab on the FeCl3)
Wash off the acid with hot running water, and baking soda(I generally rinse the blade, then take a handful of baking soda and scrub the blade with it.
Lightly sand the blade with wet 600 grit paper, to clean the high spots.
Repeat 4-6 times, or until the contrast you want is achieved.

Good Luck
Ken Nelson
Iron Wolf Forge
 
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