Disappointed with my Bandsaw. Should I return it?

R

ReverendPDP

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Dec 16, 2011
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Hello. I've been lurking in the background and learning a great deal... I think. This is probably a rookie mistake, but I bought a bandsaw (Ryobi) at our local Home Depot to help me in cutting bolsters and wood scales. It disappointed me with both projects.

First off, it wouldn't cut 3/16 in. steel, even after using the 18 tpi metal cutting blade. Had to put the barstock on my vise and cut it with an angle grinder... which zipped right through it.

Then when I changed blades to do some scroll work on some burl, I couldn't get precise cuts because of the play in the blade. I had a 2x2x5 in. block that I was hoping to make several 3/16in. thick scales from, but the cuts were not straight.

Did I do something wrong here?

The bandsaw is brand new so I'm thinking of returning it. Would I be better off with a true scroll saw for my precise cuts? Do I need a different speed band saw to cut metal?

Please advise...
 
Oh dear gawd....that saw was never meant to cut steel....and would perform poorly at cutting a block that size into scales.

You need a metal cutting bandsaw for cutting steel.
 
I doubt very highly that it was "set up" from the factory. Check the manual on how to adjust the guides. Also check your blade tension. To much or too little can cause the blade to wander. Does it have an adjustable top guide? I mean does it slide the guides up and down along the blade for how thick the material is? Most of these little band saws are made for wood and thus on the fast end for metal cutting.

Look up how to set up a fence for ripping on the band saw. It may surprise you.

It can be a pain to get everything set up to resaw on a band saw, but it just takes time.
 
He's right

These are the 2 basic metal bandsaw options

http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-variable-speed-bandsaw-47840.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/horizontal-vertical-metal-cutting-bandsaw-93762.html

I like the portaband, I had 2 of the 4x6" that didn't work.

The portaband is hand-held and does not do straight cut offs as well as the 4x6" that is setup for that.




"I couldn't get precise cuts because of the play in the blade. I had a 2x2x5 in. block that I was hoping to make several 3/16in. thick scales from, but the cuts were not straight. "
I think kyou were too hopeful.
Cut thick and sand flat.
 
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I agree it will never cut metal, if you return it and get a metal cutting bandsaw you can cut wood, and cut scales. Cutting scales on a bandsaw require a special set up, you may google "resawing wood", I have a very good bandsaw and it does have to be set up to get accurate straight cuts, it really helps to have a resaw blade, they are a bit different than the typical bandsaw blade. The set up involves finding the straight line the bandsaw wants to use, it is almost never square with the blade, but once its is set it stays the same allowing straight cuts. The wobble must be from not setting the guides properly or having the guides to far above the work piece.

With a metal cutting saw I use 18 tpi for almost all metals and a 12 tpi for wood, plastic and other soft materials. Slower than the wood bandsaw but works well. I have the HF 4 x6, I took it off the stand and placed it on a small HF stand, it has worked perfect for 4 years now. I also reinforced the sheet metal bed.

bandsaw006.jpg
 
Not to derail the thread, but where did you get that light, Patrickknives? I've been looking for something like that for a while now.
 
Short answer... take it back.

Short remedy, get the HF variable speed portable bandsaw and the appropriate bimetallic blades. The saw is currently on sale for $79.99 and with the 20% off coupon you can get it for $66. That saves you enough money to buy the three pack of bimetallic blades for $19.95 (or, if you go back a second time with a second coupon, for $16).
 
I got one for my birthday and I like it for kydex but find it funny they sell metal cutting blades for it. Mine tracked fine after a bit of adjustment.
 
The metal cutting blades are for cutting aluminum and brass sheet.
 
I'm watching for the one to go for. I have not bought a band saw and want to do it once $150 now is way too much. Id buy a good used one for say $75 if there is such a thing. I use my scroll saw for the scales and the tubular blade allows cutting in all directions without having to turn the wood, nothing simpler for cutting good lines on grips or scales.
 
You can buy those magnetic base lights like that at Harbor Freight now for 12 bucks, bought two yesterday.
 
Well I took back the Ryobi and I dropped by Harbor Freight. I saw the portable bandsaw but didn't like the idea of it not being stationary. So I'm still thinking about what to do???
 
you can make a mount for it or place it in a vise...

IMG_2571.jpg
 
Go back to H.F. and get the 4" X 6" vertical/horizontal band saw. Order Starrett bi-metal 24 TPI blades for it.
 
Which ever bandsaw you choose, you will still have to finish the scales by sanding.
I tend to cut my scales using a japanese pull saw (hassunme) and a mitre box (or similar guide). These handsaws have very thin blades and the teeth have zero kerf.
This leaves you with finished cuts that can be used without further sanding. The speed I lose from doing it by hand, I regain by not having to flatten the scales afterwards. The other bonus is that because the blades are so thin, you can get almost "invisible joins", which is handy if you decide to make wooden sheaths.
Metal cutting bandsaws run a lot slower than woodcutters and are usually 3-phase so that you can vary the speed. Single phase motors usually need reduction gearing to get a low enough speed.

edit: An ultra thin cutting disk (1mm or less) on an angle grinder will always cut quicker than the bandsaw.
 
I have the HF portaband. If you buy it I can show you a VERY easy way to convert it to upright use, and even a means to bolt it to your work table, if that's what you want to do. I could even provide the parts needed to do those things.
 
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