Disappointed

I commend you and your partner for your review. It's not everyday one sees a couple doing these types of reviews. Very progressive. Like a Bushcraft Bert and Ernie. :D

Now. Onto the nicks on the blade. I had a similar experiences with a couple of Moras and a Helle Dokka, although I was doing some heavy wood splitting. Ruined the lock on the Dokka. Anyway, on the Moras I simply honed out the dings, put a micro bevel on the edges and haven't had a problem since. AUS-8 is pretty tough, although I can see the potential for the edge nicking if it's ground too thin. Put a micro bevel on it and see if it performs any better.
 
I can understand your disappointment, wouldn't expect slicing wood curls to chip the blade. That is their AUS 8 correct? I've been thinking about picking up the new Recon 1 with Carpenter CTS XHP, but I haven't heard any reports as to how well they're doing with their heat treatment on that steel.
 
I had to watch the video a few times to make sure..
At least 10 times before the nick was noticed the users pried in the exact same spot in order to separate the shavings from the wood.
I don't know if that had anything to do with it being a thin grind, but to me it would explain the rolling and chip in the edge.
 
Could be that the edge was burnt to some degree during the manufacturing process. This isn't unheard of with Moras, either. Try sharpening the damage out, which should also remove any overheated steel at the edge, and try it again. If it happens again, then the knife has issues. If not, then problem solved. I like that you mentioned how the studs get in the way of sharpening in the traditional Scandi fashion. That's one of the first things I noticed too. No big deal, since, as you pointed out, you can just pop the studs off when sharpening, but still worth noting. Glad to see some younger guys doing decent reviews. Keep it up. :thumbup:
 
many times when factories sharpen the knives on their machines it changes the temper on the very edge. When the knife is resharpened on a stone to take out the nicks the problem goes away.
 
Didn't spyderco's folding puukko have the same issue when it was first released? Does anyone remember how that was fixed?
 
Micro-bevel seems to be the way to go then. Personally I think it might be that AUS 8 can't maintain such an extremely acute angle. Kind of makes me wonder if the cts-bd1 or xhp would have been able to handle such a keen edge.
 
seems mora did the same. using the microbevel at some point on their scandi to stop the rolling, etc.
 
So why does the zero scandi exist if it rolls? Does it only seem to work right with carbon steels?

Based on what I am seeing in this thread, the finn wolf with the zero scandi grind could serve as a useful scalpel type knife for delicate work, but avoid harder use with wood.
 
I shaved off about two feet on a two year dried chunk of very hard Choke Cherry. I had zero edge issues. I touched the edge up after with my Sharpmaker and it glides through paper again. I will never baton with this knife, it's a folder.
 
Mr.Tuesday said:
Micro-bevel seems to be the way to go then. Personally I think it might be that AUS 8 can't maintain such an extremely acute angle. Kind of makes me wonder if the cts-bd1 or xhp would have been able to handle such a keen edge.
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It would be nice if they offered the AUS-8A version (which I would micro-bevel) and another version in XHP. The latter would probably need to sell for around $100 - which is the price for their Ultimate Hunter folder.


Maybe I'm mistaken - but from what I've read by knife users in the Scandinavian countries (Finland, Sweden, Norway, etc) they often use a micro-bevel. The zero grind edge is for wood working tasks. Some of those guys are puzzled by our focus on wanting a zero grind for general use. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
 
Pointshoot777 said:
It would be nice if they offered the AUS-8A version (which I would micro-bevel) and another version in XHP. The latter would probably need to sell for around $100 - which is the price for their Ultimate Hunter folder.


Maybe I'm mistaken - but from what I've read by knife users in the Scandinavian countries (Finland, Sweden, Norway, etc) they often use a micro-bevel. The zero grind edge is for wood working tasks. Some of those guys are puzzled by our focus on wanting a zero grind for general use. Please correct me if I'm wrong on this.
Click to expand...

An XHP version with g-10 handles would be great, I like the design of finn wolf way more than the ultimate hunter. As far as the zero grind goes I was under the impression that while it excels at wood carving, it was also used on general utility blades as well. Also I have no doubt lots of folks micro-bevel their scandi blades but I think that's more of a personal preference thing and I have no idea how common it is.
 
I finally got my hands on a Finn Wolf. The edge is thin enough to do light duty cutting with precision. I see this knife as a general purpose utility blade.
 
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Hats off to you for providing blade info based on "your" actual experience with the knife. Im so tired of forums being flooded with people just repeating what they heard or just flat out makin shit up.
these kinds of reviews are great because its direct quality info. when a blade is attractive and/or expensive, its natural to feel that its performance will match. I borrowed a friends blade for a camp trip and I couldn't believe it when his sexy $300+ CRK Green Beret went dull (I mean DULL) in like 10 min of basic wood work.. the price tag and design had me thinking it would be an unstoppable blade.. interesting
 
blades when used, go dull.:)

maybe it had a wire burr on it and when it came off well there you go. i see this very often....razor sharp like from a wire burr and then used, instantly dull. of course that wouldn't allow 10 minutes of wood use it would have come off long before that? what is your thoughts on why it went dull so fast?
 
Last night I tried to cut through a tooth brush handle with my Finn Wolf and got a really nasty ding on the edge with plenty of edge rolling. For comparison, I tried to do the same with a mini griptilian and only got edge rolling. Conclusion: Tooth brush handles can be much harder to cut than almost any wood you might try, and the Finn Wolf factory edge is not meant for hard use. Cord, fabric, leather, soda cans, cardboard, and water bottles are about as hard as a material that I would attempt.
 
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