Disassembling Chinook II

Ken Cox

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I have carried my Chinook II in my waistband as a self-defense knife since day one.

I never use it for anything, and I steel the edge once or twice a year just to take the fuzz off of it.

Since I ride a bike 15-30 miles per day, year around, my Chinook II has gotten pretty grungy and I have spot corrosion from prolonged salt sweat contact.

I'd like to disassemble it and give it a thorough cleaning and polishing, but that little voice says "check it out on the forum, first."

Any tips, suggestions, warnings?
 
First of all make a list of all the pieces while your taking the knife apart so you know exactly what your missing if you lsoe something. Put all the pieces on a piece of white paper so you can clearly see them. Then have at it. :D
 
Take pictures of it during disassembly. You can always refer back to the pics if confusion arises.
 
The Chinook should be simple to disassemble. It should only consist of:

2 handle scales
2 steel Liners
1 steel back spacer
1 lockbar
1 spring
1 pivot(2 pieces)
2 washers(might be more)
1 blade
3 set of screws(might be 4 sets, can't remember off the top of my head)

Lockbacks are pretty easy to take apart, just make sure to check for loctite on the screws before you try to remove them, I've had some with red loctite on the handle screws(not the pivot) and stripped them trying to get them out.

Good luck.
 
Well, now that I've asked the question and taken a closer look, I don't think the Chinook has user-removable fasteners.
What looked like hex nuts at first now look more and more round and less and less hex-ish.
Some sort of proprietary nut, or Torx nut?
 
Might not be the same, but my Manix has regular 6 star torx bits. I don't understand why they would use proprietary fasteners on a hard use / tactical knife. What about servicing in the field?
 
Ken Cox said:
Well, now that I've asked the question and taken a closer look, I don't think the Chinook has user-removable fasteners.
What looked like hex nuts at first now look more and more round and less and less hex-ish.
Some sort of proprietary nut, or Torx nut?

Should be torx screws, though I can't remember what size.
 
Ken, as many have noted before, most of the big box stores sell sets of Torx drivers at really quite reasonable prices so you should be able to find a set without too much bother.
 
Should be mostly torx screws and philips on the clip. I'd suggest taking the knife apart not only on white paper, but also keep a shallow bin handy to put all the liitle parts in. That way the parts can't roll on the floor and get lost.

Wouter
 
I try to do all my work on a TV tray. Plenty of working space and the raised edges keep screws, washers, etc from making a break for freedom.
 
Took mine apart, pain in the arse, put it all back together now wont close properly, just my 2 cents.

-Bleach
 
I have disassembled and modified several Chinooks with no problems.

bleach - can you describe the closing problem?
 
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