Disassembly of axis bar?

M

Mikke

Joined
Jan 15, 2001
Messages
133
I was carrying my 707 (about 3-4 years old) yesterday and while playing with it I noticed how much blade play (side to side) I have on it. The pivot screw was quite loose, so I tightened it with just my thumb (ok, it was very loose) and managed to tighten it to enough that the blade was no longer free dropping. But the blade play was still really bad.
So when I got home I decided to take a closer look. Having an idea on what might be wrong I started measuring with my trusty digital calipers. Width at the stop pin was 3,15mm, width on the other side of the pivot it was 3,05mm. That 0,1mm difference creates a wedge form that pinches the bearings and blade on one side, while still allowing the blade to move sideways (blade play).

So I opened it up to see what I could do, but got to the point that I needed to disassemble the axis bar to be able to get to the stop pin (can't remove the axis bar on my 707 without disassembling it), and that's where I stopped as it was getting too late to continue.

So, anyone know if there's anything else that needs to be done except find some small pins to insert to the side of the tabs to unscrew them?
 
The older axis locks require a special tool to take them apart. You may need to tighten that pivot a little more to get rid of the play. It's hard to say without seeing it in person. Not all axis locks free drop, especially the smaller blades. If you are still concerned send it in.
 
Sending it in, should be pretty fast /easy.

I seem to recall on the 705/07, the axis bar has at least one end that is threaded on. A couple pairs of pliers with tape of the jaws, and some light pressure should get them to screw in tighter. The axis bar fits into recessed holes on the inside of the liners, so no adjustment there.
 
Benchmade said:
The older axis locks require a special tool to take them apart. You may need to tighten that pivot a little more to get rid of the play. It's hard to say without seeing it in person. Not all axis locks free drop, especially the smaller blades. If you are still concerned send it in.
Click to expand...

Tightening the pivot more locks the blade in whatever position it is in when tightening. I tried tightening to the point that it's hard but not impossible to fold the blade, but it still have (quite severe) blade play.

Can you tell me if Benchmade use Locktite when assembling the axis bar?

dclark77 said:
Sending it in, should be pretty fast /easy.

I seem to recall on the 705/07, the axis bar has at least one end that is threaded on. A couple pairs of pliers with tape of the jaws, and some light pressure should get them to screw in tighter. The axis bar fits into recessed holes on the inside of the liners, so no adjustment there.
Click to expand...

I'm not really keen to send the knife from Sweden, shipping would probably be close to half what the knife is worth, or more.
I might resort to using pliers or possibly make a tool to disassemble the axis bar. Just to be clear, the axis bar itself doesn't need adjusting, it's the stop bar between the liners that needs a reduction in length, but I can't get to it without disassembling the axis bar.

fly36gti said:
.1mm = .004" (in round numbers), so moving the bar .002" would center it, if I understand correctly.
There's a spanner tool for turning the ends, there's a pic in one of the catalogs of a worker using it, not for sale.
Click to expand...

Yes, something like that.
 
Mikke said:
Can you tell me if Benchmade uses Locktite when assembling the axis bar?
Click to expand...
Yes, they do.
I have taken the axis bar apart on 707's many times.
I use two vise grips to grab the studs on each end of the bar.
But, I first wrap the studs with a softer metal than steel (like brass or aluminum); so as not to scratch or chew up the studs.
Obviously and as always with locktite, heat can be added for ease of removal.
However, I have never had to add heat & I normally use brass...like from a brass tag.
Once the stud/nut is broken free (usually a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn), the vise grips are no longer needed.
I hope this helps.
 
Keyman said:
Yes, they do.
I have taken the axis bar apart on 707's many times.
I use two vise grips to grab the studs on each end of the bar.
But, I first wrap the studs with a softer metal than steel (like brass or aluminum); so as not to scratch or chew up the studs.
Obviously and as always with locktite, heat can be added for ease of removal.
However, I have never had to add heat & I normally use brass...like from a brass tag.
Once the stud/nut is broken free (usually a 1/4 to a 1/2 turn), the vise grips are no longer needed.
I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

Yes, it helps a lot! Thank you!
 
On the older studs; I own a vintage 710 with the holes on the studs. They must've used a special tool to make adjustments. The T-6 Torx used on the later models we know so well was a big improvement.
 
Does anyone know what the name of the tool is?
Each side of the axis bar has two small holes and there's got to be something that fits in there to make removing these things easier.
 
This tool called "large paperclip". Cut the U-shaped part of it, bend the tips 90 degrees inward, lock it in axis bar holes and fix the tool with pliers (to prevent jumping off while twisting).
 
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