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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
divers? what knife do you use?
- Thread starter danfisher
- Start date
SALTY
Gold Member
- Joined
- Mar 19, 2000
- Messages
- 5,803
Diving I do not want to carry a real expensive knive, but I want ceratin features and capabilities. I try to balance these considerations and wind up with the SOG SEAL 2000 knife or a Buck Nighthawk as well as an old FRN Endura combo edge. I even swim and snorkel with that knife, it's like part of my swim trunks.
In and around the boat is a different story depending on what I'm doing. Generally I like the Nighthawk, a Talonite talon (great for bait and gutting fish), again, the SEAL 2000 a Mission MPF and even the old faithful FRN Spyderco Endura as well.
When cutting butterfish for chunking as well as gutting tuna, the little Talonite Talon gets plenty of use and holds up great. It's a small, lightweight knife that is upt o the task, though it's not a pounding, prying, beating knife.
Although not technically a knife, I find myself using a multi-tool on the boat frequently. Soemthing always seems to need tightening or tinkering.
In and around the boat is a different story depending on what I'm doing. Generally I like the Nighthawk, a Talonite talon (great for bait and gutting fish), again, the SEAL 2000 a Mission MPF and even the old faithful FRN Spyderco Endura as well.
When cutting butterfish for chunking as well as gutting tuna, the little Talonite Talon gets plenty of use and holds up great. It's a small, lightweight knife that is upt o the task, though it's not a pounding, prying, beating knife.
Although not technically a knife, I find myself using a multi-tool on the boat frequently. Soemthing always seems to need tightening or tinkering.
- Joined
- May 21, 2000
- Messages
- 6,250
For SCUBA diving I carry a small Victorinox (SP) serrated kitchen knife in a sheath. I ground the tip off so that it can be used as a screwdriver if necessary. I only use this to cut cave line or something similiar so, I really do not need a big expensive knife. Knives get lost all the time, fortunately, I can replace mine for about $3.00. These knives hold a edge very well and are super easy to sharpen. Plus, they will out cut any knife sold at a dive shop.
- Joined
- Feb 24, 2001
- Messages
- 1,308
Since I aspire to learn to scuba dive I'll consider myself a "diver" and answer. Actually, I carry a knife in an aquatic activity -- ocean surf kayaking -- so doesn't that qualify me to answer?
I used to have a Tekna Boot Knife -- a double-edger with small serrations near the base of the blade on each edge -- but that got lost in the surf after a big wave knocked me out of my boat.
I replaced that with a Kersaw Amphibian, which turned out to be a BIG MISTAKE. That particular Kershaw was a piece of ill-designed crap. First, it was hardly what I would have called "corrosion-resistant," having rusted badly in spots after being left in its sheath after an outing (although it had been rinsed in fresh water). The knife had a lot of grooves for grip, not to mention some small-radius serrations, which make for difficult rust removal. Add to this the fact that the skeletonized handle has an inserted rubber grip which prevented me from removing all the rust that had formed. This grip could not be removed and reinstalled. Once I lifted some of the rubber edges to attempt to remove rust that had crept under them, they would not lie flat against the metal anymore. I finally decided to use a straight-edge razor to slice off the grip entirely -- I figured I'd just have a skeleton-handle knife now. Well, what I realized -- too late -- is that the rubber grip itself is essential to the sheath's ability to hold the knife in place. A tab on the sheath fits into the hole in the rubber skeletonized grip in the handle, and that hole's diameter increases when the grip is absent, allowing too much play for the knife to remain held fast.
I replaced that sorry excuse for a design with a Benchmade H20S, made with the H-1 corrosion-resistant steel they recently released. The blade is partly serrated, modified sheepsfoot. The handle is the brightest yellow you can imagine, and really throws back light, especially at dusk, or LED light. You should see it in low light illuminated by a blue LED! The grip feels great, and the knife is lightweight, and the sheath is good. I got the knife for under $70 from Knifecenter.com
---Jeffrey
I used to have a Tekna Boot Knife -- a double-edger with small serrations near the base of the blade on each edge -- but that got lost in the surf after a big wave knocked me out of my boat.
I replaced that with a Kersaw Amphibian, which turned out to be a BIG MISTAKE. That particular Kershaw was a piece of ill-designed crap. First, it was hardly what I would have called "corrosion-resistant," having rusted badly in spots after being left in its sheath after an outing (although it had been rinsed in fresh water). The knife had a lot of grooves for grip, not to mention some small-radius serrations, which make for difficult rust removal. Add to this the fact that the skeletonized handle has an inserted rubber grip which prevented me from removing all the rust that had formed. This grip could not be removed and reinstalled. Once I lifted some of the rubber edges to attempt to remove rust that had crept under them, they would not lie flat against the metal anymore. I finally decided to use a straight-edge razor to slice off the grip entirely -- I figured I'd just have a skeleton-handle knife now. Well, what I realized -- too late -- is that the rubber grip itself is essential to the sheath's ability to hold the knife in place. A tab on the sheath fits into the hole in the rubber skeletonized grip in the handle, and that hole's diameter increases when the grip is absent, allowing too much play for the knife to remain held fast.
I replaced that sorry excuse for a design with a Benchmade H20S, made with the H-1 corrosion-resistant steel they recently released. The blade is partly serrated, modified sheepsfoot. The handle is the brightest yellow you can imagine, and really throws back light, especially at dusk, or LED light. You should see it in low light illuminated by a blue LED! The grip feels great, and the knife is lightweight, and the sheath is good. I got the knife for under $70 from Knifecenter.com
---Jeffrey
- Joined
- Sep 25, 2000
- Messages
- 250
As a Dive Instructor and Recovery diver for or Sheriff Dept. we carry three cutting devices.
I carry the following for both types of diving.
U.S. Diver knife
Benchmade whitewater knife
Diver Scissor
Brian
I carry the following for both types of diving.
U.S. Diver knife
Benchmade whitewater knife
Diver Scissor
Brian
I have an IDI Titanium, 4.5" clip point, hollow ground plain edge, line hook and double serrations on spine back of the clip, full tang + tank/clam banging extension. Modified the point to 1/8" blunt tip/screwdriver. I recommend it at the right price. My wife has a UK Remora, 316 SS, 3" serrated blunt tip. Not for me. For cave diving, I have a little bitty plain edge on my BC and identical back up, SS and aluminum. I seldom use knives diving. It's criminal and devastating to the reef, harmful to the wreck, and you don't go into caves with karma like that. Just an emergency tool. "Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints".
- Joined
- May 21, 2000
- Messages
- 6,250
Cool, I thought I was the only here around here who liked knives.
I see that you are working on a Masters in Underwater Archaeology...I teach the Open Water class here at ECU so, we may have seen each other at Mingees at one time or another.
1) Boker Orca http://www.bokerusa.com/default2.asp
2) Benchmade 100SH2O - River/Dive http://www.benchmade.com/knives.asp
3) Aitor delfin black http://www.aitor.com/
2) Benchmade 100SH2O - River/Dive http://www.benchmade.com/knives.asp
3) Aitor delfin black http://www.aitor.com/
desmobob
Basic Member
- Joined
- May 5, 2003
- Messages
- 2,493
I can recommend what NOT to get....
My first dive knife was a no-name special form a mail-order dive supply. I dove with it for about a year. The first time I used it, it let me down. Luckily, it was not an emergency situation.
I was trying to cut some light braided stainless steel downrigger cable so I could salvage a dowrigger ball, release, and hardware. I hooked the cable in the knife's rope-cutting notch and pulled. I ended up with just the handle in my hand as the knife blade w/short tang fluttered to the bottom! I was pretty ****ing mad! That could have been my or my dive buddy's life depending on that knife. (I was just as mad at myself for buying a cheap knife.)
I now knew I wanted to be sure I got a knife with a full-length tang and a good handle. Again, I hit the mail-order catalogs (I live in a rural area with no shops close by) and found the Kershaw Amphibian. It seemed like a good idea... the tang WAS the handle, with some rubber material added to the inside of cut-outs in the tang to provide a secure grip.
I hate it. First of all, the knife is way too small for my hands. Second, it has a spear point blade sharpened on both edges (plain on one side, serrated on the other). I thought this was a neat feature at first, but once I got it in my hand, I realized how risky it might be trying to cut myself out of a rope or cable tangle that may be tight to my body.
Because of the small handle and double-edge blade, I'm afraid to use it for ANYTHING.
I'll be ordering a Benchmade dive knife soon.
Take it easy,
Bob Scott
My first dive knife was a no-name special form a mail-order dive supply. I dove with it for about a year. The first time I used it, it let me down. Luckily, it was not an emergency situation.
I was trying to cut some light braided stainless steel downrigger cable so I could salvage a dowrigger ball, release, and hardware. I hooked the cable in the knife's rope-cutting notch and pulled. I ended up with just the handle in my hand as the knife blade w/short tang fluttered to the bottom! I was pretty ****ing mad! That could have been my or my dive buddy's life depending on that knife. (I was just as mad at myself for buying a cheap knife.)
I now knew I wanted to be sure I got a knife with a full-length tang and a good handle. Again, I hit the mail-order catalogs (I live in a rural area with no shops close by) and found the Kershaw Amphibian. It seemed like a good idea... the tang WAS the handle, with some rubber material added to the inside of cut-outs in the tang to provide a secure grip.
I hate it. First of all, the knife is way too small for my hands. Second, it has a spear point blade sharpened on both edges (plain on one side, serrated on the other). I thought this was a neat feature at first, but once I got it in my hand, I realized how risky it might be trying to cut myself out of a rope or cable tangle that may be tight to my body.
Because of the small handle and double-edge blade, I'm afraid to use it for ANYTHING.
I'll be ordering a Benchmade dive knife soon.
Take it easy,
Bob Scott
