DIY 9v battery Titanium anodizer

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Feb 16, 2010
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Simple project, build a Titanium anodizer from 9v batteries. Plenty of vids on youtube, but here are some simple pictures.

Here's the whole setup, using a plastic bin from a wire rack storage unit. Rubbermaid containers will work fine. Higher voltages CAN kill you, especially around water. I always wear nitrile coated gloves just to be safe.
ano1.jpg

I used a 6" piece of stainless angle for the negative side(anode) attached to a wire running to the batteries. It should attach to the red wire, which attached to the negative side of the battery. I know, it's confusing. I drilled and tapped the angle and connected the wire to it with a ring terminal. I used heat shrink tubing to cover the copper wire.
ano2.jpg

Home made titanium clip to hold the piece you want to anodize. Anything will work if you only do half the piece at a time. When anodizing you don't want any copper/steel on the positive side(cathode) exposed to the electrolyte. They will conduct instead of the titanium and it will take much longer. With a titanium clip, you can put the tips of the clip in the electrolyte. It works well to move the clip from one end to the other to get an even anodizing.
ano3.jpg

9v batteries, plain and simple power supply. I got a 99¢ 9v connector from Radio Shack and attached longer wires to it for the leads. Remember, negative goes to the electrolyte and positive goes to the titanium. This is the opposite of etching steel.
ano4.jpg

Here you can see the unit in action with 1" of water and a tablespoon of TSP to form your electrolyte. Trisodium Phosphate, a cleaner found in the paint section of most big hardware stores.
ano5.jpg

You can see the hydrogen and oxygen bubbles coming off this piece. That's call electrolysis.
ano6.jpg

Here are 1/8" titanium rods anodized with different numbers of batteries. You can always anodize with a higher voltage. If you have bronze and want blue, just anodize over it. If you have blue and want bronze, you will have to sand off the blue and start over. A 3M scrubber pad works great for this.
chart.jpg

Here's Mr Titanium's logo, which shows the voltage and resulting colors.
mrtivoltages.gif

Anodizing is a result of both voltage and time. It takes a certain amount of time to anodize something. Less time and it will only get partially through the spectrum up to the full color a voltage should return. If you anodize at 45 volts but very briefly you will get bronze, maybe purple. If you want a transition effect you can slowly pull the titanium out of the electrolyte once it starts to turn bronze. Dark blues and violets are sensitive to fingerprints.

Hope your enjoyed today's presentation of Fun with Electricity!
 
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Maybe a dumb question to ask, but is it impossible to get titanium anodised red?
 
Not a dumb question at all. No, there is no real red in the spectrum. Somewhere around 8½ batteries(or before it turns completely pink) you get an orangish-pink. However, nothing close to what you get with aluminum anodizing. Of course, that's far more complicated and expensive.
 
Very cool Charles. What have you anodized today? Could you anodize the ends of titanium pins somehow? I mean, after they're in the knife.
 
How well does titanium anodizing hold up? Seems like it would be pretty fragile if you can scrub it off with a Scotchbrite pad.
 
that's a similar set up I used in the past. but I used diet pepsi for my electrolyte. Seems that there is enough phosphoric acid in diet but not in regular.


-Xander
 
Very cool Charles. What have you anodized today? Could you anodize the ends of titanium pins somehow? I mean, after they're in the knife.
Short answer, yes. There are two ways to do it. Neither involve the tub of electrolyte. Only the contact between the red wire and the titanium will anodize.

Swabbing: The titanium will anodize on the cathode or negative side of the metal. So you will need to attach the clip with a wet Q-Tip to the red wire coming out of the batteries and somehow attach the black wire to the back side of the titanium. I used the plate with a little water on it, you could also just hold the bare wire against it with gloves or tape. If you're anodize a large piece, just clip it to a corner. This contact point will not anodize. Using the Q-Tip just like you would an etcher, dab it over what you want anodized. Flip it over and do the same to the other side of the pin. A finer point will give a smaller brush on large pieces.

Writing: Still working on this one, more time after New Years to perfect it.

This image shows a blue pin in some oak that I just did.
ano7.jpg
 
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Thank you./ Just did my Wedding band, Tissot T-Touch Expert, 2013 Charge TTI, and some of my Snow Peak Fork knife spoon spork set
 
How long can you use this setup before your batteries run dead. I got a few framelocks in the works and kinda wanted to Anodize them, and this looks a lot more affordable than the price of a variable power supply.
 
Sadly, no. The equipment involved are pretty pricey. It could probably be done with a method similar to Arriel's cable damascus welded inside a stainless pipe, if you really wanted to try. Small billet wrapped in stainless foil might prevent the oxidation that would normally prevent forge welding Ti. Oh, and you'd probably have to use a press instead of a hammer. You'd also have to determine the welding temp of Ti, it's not the same as steel.
 
Very nice info zaph1! If a piece of Ti is anodized one color, say taken to yellow (~70v from your color chart in the OP), would it then be possible to re-anodize it at a lower voltage to a blue?
 
You can change colors, but only to those that are higher in voltage (than what you are changing from). If you want to go to a color that requires less voltage, you'll need to strip the old color chemically or by sanding or blasting.

I've used the method described above for swab anodizing and I'm quite pleased with the results. I looked into buying a power supply, but got the results I was after with 4 9v's from the dollar store. Pretty cool really.
 
Is there a link or way to get in touch with the anodizer of this knife? I have a few yoyos I'd like done like this.

That's not from an anodizing process, that's a mokume gane multi layer of different Ti alloys in thin layers


You can somewhat replicate it by masking off areas and dong them at different voltages
do the higher voltages first
 
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