Recommendation? Diy etcher not working on DC

M

MathieuJodoin

Joined
Oct 2, 2021
Messages
10
Hey guys!
I’m new to knife making and I just built my etcher. My AC is reading 12v and woking fine and DC reads 16v but does not etch.

I’m using 1084 scraps (not heat treated. Not sure if that changes anything) I also tried on mild steel no success, ive used a salt and water mixture and then tried adding vinegar. When applying it to the steel I hold for 1-2seconds and then remove repeating 20-30 times that dint work leaving a little mark on the surface but not actually etching I then tried leaving the on the steel for 2-3mins this gave me the same results but a bit darker easily removed with sand paper.

Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any tips and tricks would be appreciated.
 
MathieuJodoin said:
Hey guys!
I’m new to knife making and I just built my etcher. My AC is reading 12v and woking fine and DC reads 16v but does not etch.

I’m using 1084 scraps (not heat treated. Not sure if that changes anything) I also tried on mild steel no success, ive used a salt and water mixture and then tried adding vinegar. When applying it to the steel I hold for 1-2seconds and then remove repeating 20-30 times that dint work leaving a little mark on the surface but not actually etching I then tried leaving the on the steel for 2-3mins this gave me the same results but a bit darker easily removed with sand paper.

Not sure what I’m doing wrong. Any tips and tricks would be appreciated.
Click to expand...
Did you check + / - ?
 
Have you checked which is + and which is - ?

Just to make sure you have it right -
Etch first on DC with short bursts of etching. Six five second bursts is better than one 30 second etch.
Next, switch to AC and mark the etch. This deposits oxides in the etch and makes it darker. This is usually a continuous etch with no interruptions.

I am curious about your stated 12VAC and16VDC difference,
There should be a voltage drop when rectifying AC to DC. Depending on the type of rectifier ( bridge or full wave) the drop is 1.4V or .7V. Adding filter capacitors can lower that more. That is why most 12VDC power supplies use a 14.4VAC transformer.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Have you checked which is + and which is - ?

Just to make sure you have it right -
Etch first on DC with short bursts of etching. Six five second bursts is better than one 30 second etch.
Next, switch to AC and mark the etch. This deposits oxides in the etch and makes it darker. This is usually a continuous etch with no interruptions.

I am curious about your stated 12VAC and16VDC difference,
There should be a voltage drop when rectifying AC to DC. Depending on the type of rectifier ( bridge or full wave) the drop is 1.4V or .7V. Adding filter capacitors can lower that more. That is why most 12VDC power supplies use a 14.4VAC transformer.
Click to expand...
It works now that I switches the leads.
I only tried a longer etch because it wasnt working and I saw someone doing it in a video. But thank you I will try doing long get bursts around 5seconds.

I also found it odd I used a 120vac to 12vdc power supply but the output is actually 16.4 vdc will this change anything? I read some post of people etching with 5vdc,9vdc,24vdc etc..
 
The transformer you have will be fine.
How are you getting the AC?

The voltage stated is peak voltage, not RMS voltage. To get RMS multiply PEAK by .7071. In your case that would be roughly 12VDC RMS.
Show us a photo of your setup.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
The transformer you have will be fine.
How are you getting the AC?

The voltage stated is peak voltage, not RMS voltage. To get RMS multiply PEAK by .7071. In your case that would be roughly 12VDC RMS.
Show us a photo of your setup.
Click to expand...
https://flic.kr/p/2mxuJse
Heres the link. I followed videos on youtube really. My knowledge in electronics is very limited.

I have Ac going in stepping down to 12vac then thats going to the left of the switch. 12vac converting to dc (somehow 16.4vdc) from there spliting off to the right of the switching and then led and fan.

not sure what you mean by RMS but I get the 16.4vdc when I test from the banana clips.
 
What is that small electronic module just to the right of the switch? Is that a voltage regulator?

RMS is Root Mean Square. RMS is the DC amount you get from a sine wave AC voltage. It is how the actual DC voltage is calculated. When DC is made from AC, there is a positive peak and a negative peak. Measuring from peak to peak gives the peak voltage ... but the load won't really get that. It will receive the average (mean Voltage). The formula for a sine wave (AC line voltage) V RMS =V p /√2.
 
Last edited:
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
What is that small electronic module just to the right of the switch? Is that a voltage regulator?

RMS is Root Mean Square. RMS is the DC amount you get from a sine wave AC voltage. It is how the actual DC voltage is calculated. E]When Dc is made from AC, there is a positive peak and a negative peak. Measuring from peak to peak gives the peak voltage ... but the load won't really get that. It will receive the average (mean Voltage). The formula for a sine wave (AC line voltage) V RMS =V p /√2.
Click to expand...
Thats just 12vdc to 5vdc for my LED
 
MathieuJodoin said:
https://flic.kr/p/2mxuJse
Heres the link. I followed videos on youtube really. My knowledge in electronics is very limited.

I have Ac going in stepping down to 12vac then thats going to the left of the switch. 12vac converting to dc (somehow 16.4vdc) from there spliting off to the right of the switching and then led and fan.

not sure what you mean by RMS but I get the 16.4vdc when I test from the banana clips.
Click to expand...
How much it cost you to make it ?
 
I’m having a similar issue. I’ve tried swapping leads and my pos is definitely pos. I can kinda get a mark but not full what’s on the stencil. I’m using heat treated AEB-L (I tried previously on heat treated elmax just once and same issue). I cleaned with windex, made sure it was dry then taped the stencil down. Tried doing the 5 sec bursts and still nothing. I can get an AC mark using SC44 but nothing with E-94, 110A, or E-600 all from IMG along with the stencils. I followed the plans on here on building one. Power supply is just 110v outlet.
 
What size transformer are you using? Many wall plug in transformers don't deliver enough current.
 
That should work fine. I suspect something else is causing the issue. Check the contact at the block and at the alligator clip, and make sure the pad is only damp, not soaked. Make double sure the polarity is correct.

If all that doesn't change things, use the DC amp mode on a multimeter to see how much current the etch is actually drawing.
 
Jrmysell said:
I’m having a similar issue. I’ve tried swapping leads and my pos is definitely pos. I can kinda get a mark but not full what’s on the stencil. I’m using heat treated AEB-L (I tried previously on heat treated elmax just once and same issue). I cleaned with windex, made sure it was dry then taped the stencil down. Tried doing the 5 sec bursts and still nothing. I can get an AC mark using SC44 but nothing with E-94, 110A, or E-600 all from IMG along with the stencils. I followed the plans on here on building one. Power supply is just 110v outlet. or
Click to expand...
Are you sure that you have DC current ? If there is DC it MUST work , regardless it is 8 , 10 or 32 V ?
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
That should work fine. I suspect something else is causing the issue. Check the contact at the block and at the alligator clip, and make sure the pad is only damp, not soaked. Make double sure the polarity is correct.

If all that doesn't change things, use the DC amp mode on a multimeter to see how much current the etch is actually drawing.
Click to expand...
I feel like the connections should be good since I am getting some action, but I'll double check. I've tried a couple drops to 4-5 drops to soaking it and pressing pretty firmly to a paper towel a few times so it's not anywhere near dripping. I'll check the current probably this weekend (need to borrow a meter).
Natlek said:
Are you sure that you have DC current ? If there is DC it MUST work , regardless it is 8 , 10 or 32 V ?
Click to expand...
No. I'm not great at electronics, but feel I followed the instructions well and used all the correct parts. So I feel like I should have DC.
 
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