How To DIY Etcher WIP

T

Taz

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Apr 28, 1999
Messages
2,696
I got one of the knifekits.com etchers; it is AC only, so it marks the blade, but doesn't really etch it depth wise, since it doesn't have DC. It does leave a nice mark, but I wanted something that will etch into the steel more so if I need to clean up the blade after etching, I can do so and not remove the mark. I searched on Ebay for model train transformers and was going to go that route, but then I saw this and got it for $45!
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It is similar to the Elenco XP-625 that some others have used.

I will probably make my own pad to use (or cut off and use the one from the knifekits etcher) so now I am looking at how to wire from the unit to the pad. Should I just use banana clips and plug into the side I want to use? Or use a DPDT switch and wire from the unit to the switch and then to the pad? I see it has an AC on/off and a DC Meter on/off, but I don't know if that means I can shut the AC and/or DC power off individually?

I will keep this as a WIP and document things as I go!
 
Nice unit. Probably the easiest (and most safe!) thing would be to take a multimeter and measure what the output gives you in different modes? If I was a betting man I would say it's either AC or DC, not both at the same time.

I use DPDT switch on my homemade etcher, it is handy, but switching the pad to different plugs would not be a dealbreaker either. At least to get started, to see if it does what it is supposed to do.
 
Yeah, I have a multimeter and will do some testing when it arrives. I see other units from the same company online and they say it's simultaneous power to both, but they don't have the on/off switched like mine does? Looking forward to playing with it!

It looks like I can use a graphite block as the carbon block instead of a chunk of brass? Going to try to get the rest of the stuff ordered so I can make the pad while waiting for the power supply to arrive. I have most of the other stuff I need at home already, just need the brass or carbon block. I have some brass, but it's only around 1/4" thick.
 
Taz said:
Yeah, I have a multimeter and will do some testing when it arrives. I see other units from the same company online and they say it's simultaneous power to both, but they don't have the on/off switched like mine does? Looking forward to playing with it!

It looks like I can use a graphite block as the carbon block instead of a chunk of brass? Going to try to get the rest of the stuff ordered so I can make the pad while waiting for the power supply to arrive. I have most of the other stuff I need at home already, just need the brass or carbon block. I have some brass, but it's only around 1/4" thick.
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You don't know how glad I am that you got that device ! Some guys here almost crucified me when i write .............don t spend over 300 $ on that empty box called Personalizer Plus , you can get the same for less than $ 50 even less if you want to build it your self 🤣
 
I have a very similar bench top ,model and made my hand piece out of chunk of brass. Drilled tapped 1/4" installed a brass bolt that I slide over a drilled wooden dowel rod for a handle. Cane tip covered where wire went under bolt just for looks. It worked great. After a couple years I was started having problems with my etching and swore it was my handpiece. I ordered just the hand piece from Jantz. That didn't help. It ended up being the electrolyte! Yes on the banana clips that go into the unit and small alligator clip that clips to the blade. It was a lot easier when Radio Shack was still open but Amazon now can hook you up!
 
Awesome, thanks guys! I ordered up the clips, as well as the toggle switch and a graphite block. I have some copper bar in like 3/8" or 1/2" thick, would that work or be too conductive? I've seen brass and carbon used, but not copper.
 
Taz said:
Awesome, thanks guys! I ordered up the clips, as well as the toggle switch and a graphite block. I have some copper bar in like 3/8" or 1/2" thick, would that work or be too conductive? I've seen brass and carbon used, but not copper.
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I wouldn't see why copper wouldn't work. You probably have to lightly sand off oxidation between uses. Just put some 220 grit paper on a flat surface and clean between uses. I have two thoughts. Why do you need a toggle switch? Just unplug banana clips from DC and plug into AC to switch which outputs your using. Second thought your base needs to be deep enough to wrap some felt around it and rubber band in place. With material only 3/8" or 1/2" I think you will need to add a insulated backer to it either wooden, rubber etc. I'd personally drill and tap your copper for 1/4" x 20. Use a copper or brass bolt that will go through the square piece of wood with a jam nut on top to tighten things up and a place to attach lead from your unit.
 
I was going to do the switch so I wouldn't have to plug in each time to etch or darken (1 hand versus 2 and wear and tear on the connectors). The copper/brass would be at the bottom of a wood dowel, like in Ernies Hand Marker instructions, to wrap the felt around.
 
Ok, so the project is done!

The on/off switch is for the whole unit, not the ac. The dc switch is to read amps or volts. I will eventually wire the dpdt switch, but it works well just plugging into the DC or AC.

The alligator/banana clips and graphite blocks came in today, so I was able to get the hand piece made! Went to the local hardware store, got a 3" long brass 1/4-20 screw, some washers, a dowel and some felt. Made up a marking unit with the above materials and set it up so the dowel clamps the felt to the carbon graphite pad when the screw is tightened. Drilled thru the dowel, drilled and tapped into the carbon block and wrapped felt around it. DC alligator clip to the brass screw. Worked pretty well! DC etches the metal nicely and the AC blackens it as planned!

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I want to try to get the felt wrapped tighter. This is stuff from the hardware store that I removed the adhesive from to use. I will get some thinner craft felt soon. I have some really thick 1/4" and 3/8" thick stuff, but I think that would be too thick! I will make up a smaller graphite pad for my makers mark and trim this one down a bit for doing names and other longer inscriptions.

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First blade I forged with the first iteration of my makers mark. I redid the J so it has more upcurve to the hook part. I am hoping to get some pics of etched blades tomorrow!
 
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Looks good. Personally I'd tighten bolt to graphite and use cut piece of thin craft felt cut to appropriate size and held in place with rubber bands holding it on the graphite instead of using the bolt. But that's just me. Good job.
 
The etch looks good. Is the vague resemblance with the kanji for power/strength (力) intentional?
 
Yeah, I may change that up. The felt is somewhat thick, so it doesn't always etch well and doesn't wrap around the carbon block. The block is pretty massive, so I will trim that down a bit more and make a smaller square one. I have some brass incoming as well.
 
No, not intentional, but welcomed! My name is Tim Johnson, so T J are my initials. I did the lower case t so it's like a cross since I am a Christian. I like Japanese kitchen knives and swords, so it's pretty fitting that it's close to a kanji!
 
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