DIY Heat Treat Oven Question

Status
Not open for further replies.
C

Chris'knives

Joined
Jan 6, 2009
Messages
22
I am building a heat treat oven and have a questions for those of you who have done this successfully. I want to use 220 but do not know how to wire it into the solid state relay. I have the PID controller and SSR and understand the idea about how both work together. Not knowing any better I thought you would wire both 110 legs into the SSR on one terminal. I am being told you cannot do this. I watched a video by a guy named Rashad that was very helpful but they did not explain the wiring in detail. I also need to know where the neutral gets hook to other then the opposite end of my coil. AN Y help would be greatly appreciated and a picture would go along way in my case along with an explanation. Thansk in advance for all your help.

Chris
 
Chris, I allmost in the finals of building mine oven.
My project
I guess, that you must find SSR, desiged for 220V. If it is for 110 it wont work. In europe the electric system is 3 wired - phase, zero and ground, and voltage between zero and phase is 220V~, so with my SSR I rule the phase.

WIRING%20OVEN.JPG


Now I discovered that a fuse between heater and SSR, phase comutating scheme cannot protect the SSR!!!. Manifactirer told me that the SSR will burn faster than fuse will turn off, so I might change the polarity by ruling the zero with SSR. Only have to switch down the phase on the opposite side of the heaters, because if they are open inside the chamber you might get a shock while pulling the blade or so, or to make a door switch.

WIRING%20OVENZero%20rull.JPG
 
Knifemaniac,

A note to the US users reading your schematic

I noticed that the SSR control line is marked "230V from the digital controller". On most hookups in the US, that will be "+ and- 12VDC to SSR" (or whatever the SSR output is from the control) . The 230V line will not normally be running to the SSR through the controller. I see you noted that your unit uses 230V as a SSR input (and that you are in Europe), but most I have seen in the US use from 13-48VDC. The contacts on the SSR most folks get should be labeled something like "input 3-32VDC + and -" on one side and "24-230VAC /25Amp" on the other side. The control voltage (the 12VDC) is usually screw 3 and 4, and the load (120/230VAC) screw 1 and 2.
The line from the power cord fuse to the heating coil is drawn as if it is a 120VAC line, but the control voltage is labeled as 230V.

Also,In Europe, where the line voltage is single phase 230V, your drawing is correct. However, in the US, If you have a L,N,and G input, that would be for 120V, if it has a L,L,N,and G , then it is 230V ( splittable to 120V). So, for the US users,hooking up a 220V coil, they need to change the N to an L.

Thanks for posting your hookup.
Stacy
 
If you are using a 3 wire plug and 220V you need the white to the one knifemaniac has marked N and the black to the one he has marked L and the green to ground. As Stacy stated some SSR use different control voltages. Your pid must output must be in the range of your SSR's control voltage. I also advice a 2pst switch 30 amp rated for at least 220v on the 220. It will have 4 terminals. Two an each side wire each of your 220 legs to a terminal on each side then your out puts to the other terminal on the same side. That way you can shut everything down. Unplugging or plugging in a 220 plug that has a load or will load immediately is not a good practice. If not make sure the door switch he mentioned is open so the SSR will not be switched on while connecting or disconnecting the power. Jim
 
I got it, Stacy. Thanks for the info. Than I would use 2 SSR- for each phase. In that case in Europe when we use two phase - it comes on 380 Volts. Sorry if I tricked someone, people. Looks like mine scheme works only for 110V in US, that involves one phase only. Thats more like US wiring? :)

WIRING%20OVENUS.JPG


There are many kinds of SSR-s. Mine is ruled by 80-250V~AC. You can order 6-36 VDC also. My controller has 220V output, thats why I ordered SSR with 80-250V~AC control voltage. Here are pics of both knids SSR-s

img_full.php

img_full.php
 
Last edited:
Chris,

I think everybody has given you some real good input. One last thing that I would offer is, if you go to Paragon's website they have wiring diagrams for their ovens and kilns. You may be able to glean something there. I'm usung my phone to post this so I don't have a link for you but you can google "paragon oven" and find the website easy enough

Hope this helps you out.

Rick
 
Hats off to you guys who ake a go at buildiung your own equipment.

A great many of the innovators in our industry are folks wh did just exactly that.

AND they end up having a greater knowledge of all things mechanical/technical to lay the foundation for greater future projects.

A number of years ago I venured onto SWORDFORUMS and asked what equipment a maker needed to have in his shopp to do "stateof the art" work and to remain "in the game".

ONe very serious, very knwledgeable individual told methe future is in
"eletrical induction" .

He then emailed me the description of plans to "home build" your own set up that would take the place of furnaces and forges.

At the time all I could envision was how bad it was going to hurt when I accidentally "smoked" myself when I threw the juice the first time.

I see now his thoughts were on the money for future innovations.

Good luck.

For those of us who consider electrics as "new fangled", I will remain a spectator knowing that there are folks who are experts who will build one for me cheaper than I can do it myself after I include the ER/hospital bills.

PLease post pictures of your final kiln so it can be given the appropriate applause.

Shane
 
Hi , I'm new so please excuse my ignorance. I to am converting a k220 volt kiln and your diagram is great, but I don't see a power in to the controller. Help please. Thank you John henry
 
First, this is a four year old thread.
Second, the diagram posted is NOT for US 220 VAC, it is for European current, which is like our 1209VAC, just higher voltage. The US 220VAC is two hot lines carrying 120V each. In Europe it is one hot carrying 220V. That is a very different situation.

You can run US 220 voltage through only one SSR as shown, but it is much safer with two, as in the link.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top