DIY Mayonizing

[Richard K]

Well, since Mr. Mayo is no longer working his magic, I thought I'd give it a try. I did not, however, have the nerve to try it on one of my Sebenzas (all I have currently are woodies and a unique graphic). I acquired a BM 750 and proceeded to void the warranty by tearing it apart. I used my drill press and drilled a series of progessively smaller holes on both sides and gave each hole a slight chamfer with the next size larger bit. While apart, I polished the bearing surfaces of the blade around the pivot (much smoother action now). Before reassembling it, I re-blasted the scales and pocket clip with 120 grit aluminum oxide. It turned out well but I still don't have the cajones to try it on a Sebenza For those of you with a drill press and blast cabinet, give it a try.

 

[=Voodoo=]

i have tried it as well on a bm 750, was a pic floating around

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=275173&highlight=750+mayo

anyway... was a rush job...done in 35-45 minutes....

and 1st time i have used a drill press in a while

but am looking for some more tips to help make a better try in future

 

[Richard K]

Voodoo, I followed the link to your thread and saw the discussion re: coutersink vs. next larger sized bit. I used larger bits by hand, not in my drill press. Holes came out with a SLIGHT chamfer silmilar to those on my Buck Mayo TNT. After blasting, they look good, IMHO. 120 was the coarsest grit I had on hand (CRK uses 80 grit) so I set the pressure at 50 psi. and held the gun fairly close to the work. The resulting finish is very close to that of a Sebenza (I frequently re-blast the pocket clips on my Sebenzas) On my next order from Brownell's, I'll get some 60 grit and try it at a lower psi.

 

[Professor]

Be sure to tape-off the lock face. You'll actually see where it was taped-off at CRK. This will keep it smooth and more importantly, will not remove surface-area during blasting.

Professor.