Hey everyone. Looking at investing in a 2x72 belt grinder, but need to be able to switch tooling arms for contact wheels, flat plattens, etc. I've been looking around and have found a TON of kits and plans for building one myself. Money is the big factor with this and am wondering if building my own saves any money, or if it's just fun. I can't weld or mill anything, so that limits my options, but I'm interested in what y'all have to say
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DIY vs purchase grinder?
- Thread starter Kadecho
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Grinders are strange critters.They look a bit weird when you first look at them. Maybe even a bit crude as compared to a milling machine or surface grinder, but when you turn one on if it doesn't track correctly, and only well made ones do, then it's just junk. Buy one of the good ones and all will be good.
Frank
Frank
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I made mine and I use it as a surface grinder 
I really only use it to remove mill scale and run it backwards and slow.
You might say oh well you don't have find adjustment. But I do, my grinder head pivots close to the 8" wheel. So the rear of the head has the 2" wheel. I start with 2" wheel high enough that it's about 1" away from touching the belt. Then loosen the tool rest and put your stock between the wheel and rest and push the rest gently holding the bar agenst the wheel. Then lock down the rest. Now tap the rear of the head up twords the belt till the bar just slips through between the wheel and rest with. Start the grinder and push the stock through. Then when you need to take more material off just tap the 2" wheel side down a tiny bit. Takes just a skim pass. Works like a charm and gives a nice finish.
I really only use it to remove mill scale and run it backwards and slow.
You might say oh well you don't have find adjustment. But I do, my grinder head pivots close to the 8" wheel. So the rear of the head has the 2" wheel. I start with 2" wheel high enough that it's about 1" away from touching the belt. Then loosen the tool rest and put your stock between the wheel and rest and push the rest gently holding the bar agenst the wheel. Then lock down the rest. Now tap the rear of the head up twords the belt till the bar just slips through between the wheel and rest with. Start the grinder and push the stock through. Then when you need to take more material off just tap the 2" wheel side down a tiny bit. Takes just a skim pass. Works like a charm and gives a nice finish.
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I built a variable speed Polar Bear Forge GIB and did not save much money in the long haul. I spent around $1200 putting it all together. It turned out great and I don't regret doing it, but keep in mind you need to have mechanical skills and the tools to make it happen. You will need a good drill press and the ability to accurately drill and tap holes at a minimum.
The biggest advantage I found for building versus buying was my ability to layout cash a little at a time, buying the kit, then wheel set, then motor and VFD rather than spending a large amount up front. If I had the cash, I would probably just order a machine and be done with it.
Good luck with your decision!
The biggest advantage I found for building versus buying was my ability to layout cash a little at a time, buying the kit, then wheel set, then motor and VFD rather than spending a large amount up front. If I had the cash, I would probably just order a machine and be done with it.
Good luck with your decision!
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Drew Riley
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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A lot of it depends on what all you have access too, but a NWGS with just a flat platen can be built for about $250 to $300. Then it's just a matter of getting more tools arms, wheels, etc... as you get funds.
I built my own out of 2" square tube. Most of the materials were scrap so it was almost free to build. We did have to buy the motor and the wheels. It all depends on your fabrication skills but if you are short on those then I definitely recommend buying one. A grinder can be a tricky thing to make and as others have said if it doesnt track its worthless and tracking can be a very hard thing to get right without precision metal working ability.
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I built one from the No Weld Grinder plans, but I am not a machinist and don't have access to a machine shop. Tolerances and everything being perfectly square is extremely important in grinders. Not only did everything end up costing me about $1400 (without a VFD!) after it was all said and done, but I could never get it to track perfectly and spend probably 20-30 hours messing w/ it over the course of the 1-2 years I had it. I learned the hard way (as I do in most things in life) that it is MUCH MUCH more cost effective to purchase a professionally made one, whether it be a kit or a full grinder. You won't regret it.
The cheapest out there that will work are called Sling grinders, then you have some steps up like Pheer and Esteem, or the Wilmont Little Buddy (which I highly recommend).
The cheapest out there that will work are called Sling grinders, then you have some steps up like Pheer and Esteem, or the Wilmont Little Buddy (which I highly recommend).
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most everything I know about working with metal I learned in the past 6 months or so from this forum. The only skill/ tools I did not have to build my grinder was a set of taps. learning to tap a hole is not that big of a deal compared to knifemaking. The other tools you may need, you will need to make knives (drill press, drill bits, square), so no real outlay of funds there. I went with a sling and am very happy with it. If I want tooling arms or wheels down the road, my sling will become a dedicated machine for flat grinding. i think that works for me. YMMV.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUovgpYZKbw
This is my first 2x72 grinder. Ony thing I could possibly upgrade is the motor eventually. Other then that I have about a grand into it with 300$ worth of belts. I could not afford a premade one.
The Freq drive was the biggest cost. It cuts grind time in 1/4 compared to a shitty 1/42 grinder. Also this will be clutch for other metal fabrication I do.
This is my first 2x72 grinder. Ony thing I could possibly upgrade is the motor eventually. Other then that I have about a grand into it with 300$ worth of belts. I could not afford a premade one.
The Freq drive was the biggest cost. It cuts grind time in 1/4 compared to a shitty 1/42 grinder. Also this will be clutch for other metal fabrication I do.
I built my own. And while it's not perfect it was a lot cheaper than buying a pre-made one of equivalent quality/functionality ($3-4k). Mine has about 1mm belt wobble - but I find I usually get more belt wobble out of bad belts than I do out of the grinder itself. I could probably tune the wobble out, but I just haven't bothered yet: the grinder is better than me still at this point lol.
So I would say it's definitely doable. But unless you are doing a bolt together kit (and even then some require you to tap holes that must be done perfectly straight) you will need some metalworking/fab experience.
Edit: Here's the one I built:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1352724-New-grinder-build-complete
So I would say it's definitely doable. But unless you are doing a bolt together kit (and even then some require you to tap holes that must be done perfectly straight) you will need some metalworking/fab experience.
Edit: Here's the one I built:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1352724-New-grinder-build-complete