DMT 4" Dia-Sharp Diamond Stone

Those will do just fine for finishing and touch ups if you don't mind using 4 inch plates. I use my 1x4 eze-laps all the time. :thumbsup:
They should last a life time if used correctly.
 
jpm2 said:
Those will do just fine for finishing and touch ups if you don't mind using 4 inch plates. I use my 1x4 eze-laps all the time. :thumbsup:
They should last a life time if used correctly.
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Thank you :thumbsup: now I have to make a call on Viber . . . . . :)
 
Sure, I'd use those.
Like the literature in the seller's page stated : this DMT Dia-Sharp diamond stone is great for smaller jobs

I wouldn't want to try to reprofile with them (take a lot of metal off to change the angle of the edge) or for kitchen knives.

Most of my pocket knife sharpening is done with similar length stones such as these. The shorter ones in the first photo and those in the last two photos. Some times hand held some times in my Edge Pro Apex sharpener.

However. I only use diamond stones when I absolutely need it for super steel alloys. The rest of the time I prefer water stones and ceramic stones shown in the last two photos.IMG_3430.jpg
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Yeah, N Natlek needs them for finishing home made HSS blades, m35/m42/t42 high carbide @~67 rc, much like maxamet but slightly less hard.
Using heavy pressure on diamond plate to hog metal off these steels will quickly wear them down, but not completely.
My method, hog and apex with coarse SiC, refine with fine SiC, finish with C/M/F/EF diamond, clean up on bare or diamond micron loaded denim.
 
jpm2 said:
Yeah, N Natlek needs them for finishing home made HSS blades, m35/m42/t42 high carbide @~67 rc, much like maxamet but slightly less hard.
Using heavy pressure on diamond plate to hog metal off these steels will quickly wear them down, but not completely.
My method, hog and apex with coarse SiC, refine with fine SiC, finish with C/M/F/EF diamond, clean up on bare or diamond micron loaded denim.
Click to expand...
Using heavy pressure in a diamond plate will strip the diamonds from the substrate, rendering the stone useless in short order. I know you said "not completely" but I have a fine DMT to attest to the opposite of that. It is smooth as glass, and useless. This was my first stone, and I have since learned. The Extra-Fine side is still usable, so I kept it.

Use relatively light pressure and allow the diamonds to cut. They will have a small break in period, where they are closer to one step coarser than sold as (a new Medium will feel like a Coarse, but it will settle into a Medium, new Fine will feel like a Medium but once broken in, it will be a Fine)

Let the diamonds do the work. This is not a friable stone, where pressure equates to cutting speed and the releasing/fracturing of cutting material.
 
jpm2 said:
Yeah, N Natlek needs them for finishing home made HSS blades, m35/m42/t42 high carbide @~67 rc, much like maxamet but slightly less hard.
Using heavy pressure on diamond plate to hog metal off these steels will quickly wear them down, but not completely.
My method, hog and apex with coarse SiC, refine with fine SiC, finish with C/M/F/EF diamond, clean up on bare or diamond micron loaded denim.
Click to expand...

Some recommendations for SIC stone , jpm2 ? Until I have time to order them too ?

PS. I like this steel .They simple refuse to get dull .For light duty they hold excelent .Now I work on this one ....M35 in 2.5mm ..... It is grind to zero and cut printer paper not even sharpened :) And I make BIG mistake .....decide to get better finis /so far I left on 40 grits/ I do not feel the thumbs from an endless hand sanding /SIC paper / that does not lead me almost anywhere .. . :mad:

40 grit ceramic belt finish ....
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And after many ,many hours hand sanding ...............
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And to drill hole in this steel is story for another day . . ..

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I don't know how you drilled the holes, I tried solid carbide bits and broke them. Had a machinist try and he broke them. A HSS drill bit won't even make a mark you can feel with your fingernail! I figured the only way was grind them, so gave up.

As for SiC stones, the Norton jb8 oilstone is excellent for $20usd. If you want waterstone, someone else will have to chime in.

M2 and CPM-M4 is very good, but can't seem to take very high hardness with conventional heat treats and hold up. These 5-10% cobalt HS steels are on a different level, especially with the industrial heat treat for cutting other steels. I've been waiting 25 years for someone to offer folders in this stuff, and thought HAP40 was going to be it, and probably could be, but so far falls short due to heat treat... then Maxamet comes along, thanks Spyderco. :thumbsup:

NJBillK NJBillK Never used DMT, but I have a 30 year old eze-lap 1x4 that is wore almost shiny in the middle from hundreds of hours of heavy pressure and is very smooth, but still cuts.
 
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jpm2 said:
I don't know how you drilled the holes, I tried solid carbide bits and broke them. Had a machinist try and he broke them. A HSS drill bit won't even make a mark you can feel with your fingernail! I figured the only way was grind them, so gave up.

As for SiC stones, the Norton jb8 oilstone is excellent for $20usd. If you want waterstone, someone else will have to chime in.

M2 and CPM-M4 is very good, but can't seem to take very high hardness with conventional heat treats and hold up. These 5-10% cobalt HS steels are on a different level, especially with the industrial heat treat for cutting other steels. I've been waiting 25 years for someone to offer folders in this stuff, and thought HAP40 was going to be it, and probably could be, but so far falls short due to heat treat... then Maxamet comes along, thanks Spyderco. :thumbsup:

NJBillK NJBillK Never used DMT, but I have a 30 year old eze-lap 1x4 that is wore almost shiny in the middle from hundreds of hours of heavy pressure and is very smooth, but still cuts.
Click to expand...

For this knife I used drill bits similar like =Artu drill bits = drill ..... sharpen ...... drill .......sharpen .... I ruined three ...one melted :) BUt , best and cheapest way for me is this ..........

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jpm2 said:
I don't know how you drilled the holes, I tried solid carbide bits and broke them. Had a machinist try and he broke them. A HSS drill bit won't even make a mark you can feel with your fingernail! I figured the only way was grind them, so gave up.

As for SiC stones, the Norton jb8 oilstone is excellent for $20usd. If you want waterstone, someone else will have to chime in.

M2 and CPM-M4 is very good, but can't seem to take very high hardness with conventional heat treats and hold up. These 5-10% cobalt HS steels are on a different level, especially with the industrial heat treat for cutting other steels. I've been waiting 25 years for someone to offer folders in this stuff, and thought HAP40 was going to be it, and probably could be, but so far falls short due to heat treat... then Maxamet comes along, thanks Spyderco. :thumbsup:

NJBillK NJBillK Never used DMT, but I have a 30 year old eze-lap 1x4 that is wore almost shiny in the middle from hundreds of hours of heavy pressure and is very smooth, but still cuts.
Click to expand...
Well , my friend from US has arrived safely . And instead of two sets / coarse-fine-extra fine / he ordered and brought me six FINE DMT :( First I was disapointed ............ until I tried :D This THING eat steel and do it that .... FAST :eek: I put edge on newly finished knife and like it ! I glue them /double tape/ on something like G10 but much harder and now they are OK for sharpening .
What do you think , did I need coarse and extra fine to order ? So far I sharpened all my knife to 400 grit , I like how they make aggressive cut .....
J jpm2 , with this diamonds stone I sharpened cheap masonry drill /make some device to hold them in my sharpenig tool / and menage to drill hole for pins in this two HSS blank .NOW , they CUT in HSS like in cheese :eek: I think that surface is too small on tungsten carbide piece for good manual sharpening ...That's why they did not drill right . . . .
Thanks you all for help :thumbsup:

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NJBillK said:
Using heavy pressure in a diamond plate will strip the diamonds from the substrate, rendering the stone useless in short order. I know you said "not completely" but I have a fine DMT to attest to the opposite of that. It is smooth as glass, and useless. This was my first stone, and I have since learned. The Extra-Fine side is still usable, so I kept it.

Use relatively light pressure and allow the diamonds to cut. They will have a small break in period, where they are closer to one step coarser than sold as (a new Medium will feel like a Coarse, but it will settle into a Medium, new Fine will feel like a Medium but once broken in, it will be a Fine)

Let the diamonds do the work. This is not a friable stone, where pressure equates to cutting speed and the releasing/fracturing of cutting material.
Click to expand...
Now I understand what you are talking about :thumbsup:
 
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