DMT 8000 grit?

pvicenzi

pvicenzi

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What are your opinions of the DMT 8000 grit diamond hone? Does it give a good polished edge?
 
It does it's job, but you can get waterstones that do the same job a broken-in DMT 8,000 does right from day one and without the need to baby them as much as the DMT 8,000 needs. A Norton 1,000/8,000 grit combination waterstone costs less, does a better job, and has the added bonus of a coarser waterstone built in for preparing your edges to receive a mirror polish.
 
If you have all the other diamond stones it worth it but buying just the EEF would most likely be a waste. The use of diamond stones is also best with high alloy steels (think CPM) so if your sharpening a lot of carbon steels (like 1095) waterstones might be a better choice.
 
My Norton 8K sharpens/polishes S30V faster than my D8EE. Haven't tried it on S110V because I don't remove recurves from recurved blades. For something like S110V or S125V, any high-grit abrasive will be useless for the final edge.
 
thombrogan said:
My Norton 8K sharpens/polishes S30V faster than my D8EE. Haven't tried it on S110V because I don't remove recurves from recurved blades. For something like S110V or S125V, any high-grit abrasive will be useless for the final edge.
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That's interesting, I find waterstones to be much slower than the diamonds (and they should be considering diamonds are many times harder) even my new Naniwa 12k does very little to S30V.
 
Before break-in, I find the DMT 8k quite a bit faster than the Norton 8k but the polish is not as fine. It's more like the Norton 4k in both speed and polish, before break-in. Break-in takes a very, very long time with this stone, but it does reach 8k grit eventually.

The cool thing with the DMT stones is that it can sharpen ceramic knives and solid carbide tools. They can sharpen any material except diamond.
 
I think Thom means that for extremely wear-resistant steels it already starts to polish at relatively low grit. At least this has been my experience.
 
knifenut1013 said:
That's interesting, I find waterstones to be much slower than the diamonds (and they should be considering diamonds are many times harder) even my new Naniwa 12k does very little to S30V.
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Both the Naniwa 12K and Norton 8K are resin-bound waterstones, but the Naniwa 12K's abrasives are about 0.5 microns thick and the Norton's are 3 microns. The insane people often go from a Naniwa 8K (Super Stone or Jyunpaku 'snow white') to the Naniwa 12K as it's a 1.8 micron to 0.5 micron jump.

cbwx34 said:
Hey Thom...

Can you expand on this a bit why this is so?
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Those particular types of steels tend to get a toothy edge after a little use no matter what they had for an initial finish. Some steels in the same category; such as SG-2 and ZDP-189; seem to hold a polished edge with no problem, but not the mentioned ones so much. I can give theories and copies of micrographs from Roman Landes and use weird terms, but I don't really know why it's so.

Which reminds me: time to break out my S110V folder to get more enjoyments.
 
thombrogan said:
Those particular types of steels tend to get a toothy edge after a little use no matter what they had for an initial finish. Some steels in the same category; such as SG-2 and ZDP-189; seem to hold a polished edge with no problem, but not the mentioned ones so much. I can give theories and copies of micrographs from Roman Landes and use weird terms, but I don't really know why it's so.
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That's OK, no theory posting needed. :eek: I was (am) more interested if it's something you actually tried and found to be true.

cbw
 
Found it to be true with S30V sharpened to any angle I'll use. My S110V blade is too thick to enjoy at current time and the weather's in the way of seriously thinning it, but it seems to get toothy on cardboard (all the while mocking me with the potential of its recurve and steel).
 
That's the beauty of the CPM steels, the more they wear the more they cut. Those steels are not really impressive out the gate but sure do shine in the long run. What's really impressive is how they tend to sharpen themselves on coarser materials (drywall to be specific) and when they feel dull as a butter knife they will still slice a tomato like a much sharper edge.
 
knifenut1013 said:
That's the beauty of the CPM steels, the more they wear the more they cut. Those steels are not really impressive out the gate but sure do shine in the long run. What's really impressive is how they tend to sharpen themselves on coarser materials (drywall to be specific) and when they feel dull as a butter knife they will still slice a tomato like a much sharper edge.
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I haven't had the opportunity to test S125V yet, but I dearly love S90V. :thumbup:
 
thombrogan said:
Both the Naniwa 12K and Norton 8K are resin-bound waterstones, but the Naniwa 12K's abrasives are about 0.5 microns thick and the Norton's are 3 microns. The insane people often go from a Naniwa 8K (Super Stone or Jyunpaku 'snow white') to the Naniwa 12K as it's a 1.8 micron to 0.5 micron jump.
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Thom, could you tell me who reported these sizes? I asked Naniwa, and was told that they follow JIS for 8000, 1.2 +/- 0.3 micron, and 12K was a company secret. Also, they claim tighter controls on particle size than the standard allows.
 
Oops. The 1.8 was from my Glasstones (Shapton ain't no JIS-parrot) and the rest was my misinterpretation of stuff DocNightfall told me and a one-time looky googling of JIS abrasive sizes.
 
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