DMT-continuous or non continuous?

T

Talley1013

Joined
Oct 15, 2010
Messages
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Hey. I recently bought an inexpensive fine grit diamond stone @ Academy Sports and am absolutely in love with it. It is my first diamond stone so I really dont know much about them. I think I am ready to buy a set of all 4 DMT bench stones. Can I get away with buying the cheaper continuous stones or am I better off with the non continuous?

Thanks
ET
 
Talley1013 said:
Hey. I recently bought an inexpensive fine grit diamond stone @ Academy Sports and am absolutely in love with it. It is my first diamond stone so I really dont know much about them. I think I am ready to buy a set of all 4 DMT bench stones. Can I get away with buying the cheaper continuous stones or am I better off with the non continuous?
Thanks
ET
Click to expand...

Not sure which stones (specifically) you're referring to. In the case of DMT's continuous (Dia-Sharp) line, if compared to an equally-sized non-continuous DMT hone, the continuous hones are generally more expensive. The non-continuous hones that are supplied with a hardwood case might be higher priced (due to the added expense of the box itself), but when directly comparing hone-for-hone (continuous vs. non, same grit, single-sided vs. single-sided or double-sided vs. double-sided), the continuous hones are pricier. Makes sense, there's a lot more diamond abrasive on the continuous hones. You're paying extra for the extra diamond.

Having rambled on about that, everything I've seen from DMT is very good. If you're already pleased with your 'inexpensive' diamond hone, I'd say it's all upside from here. I think you're bound to be very impressed with whatever you might get from DMT.
 
The polka dotted (non continuous) hones (DMT calls these Diamiond Whetstones)are a much thinner piece of steel stuck to a plastic base (at least the one I have is). The Diasharp (continuous) is a solid chink of ~1/4 inch metal with the abrasive on one side (at least it is in the 8x3 size I like).

Obviously the thicker metal is MUCH heavier. I suppose if you abuse the hell out of the polka-dotted type, you could bend them and have flattness issues?

The real world use perspective (that I feel I have, after over 10 years of use). The cheaper polka dotted variety, work great and so long as you do not store them at the bottom of a pile of wrenches or something, they last for a VERY long time.

Why do I recommend the more expensive continuous stones that are heavier?

The holes can provide problems with fine points. If you get tired (free handing) and let the point lead ever so slightly, it can dip into one of the polka dot holes and your tip will snag and damage may result (to the tip).

I find a smooth continuous surface much more versatile and easier to work with.

There are many reports of one type working faster than the other....I am not ready to weigh in on that. Even with many years of experience, I find the variables too numerous to constrain.

"The holes allow swarf to collect there and not damage your work"...if you are generating that much swarf, you need to be rinsing the hone more frequently PERIOD. Even if it collects in the holes, some will remain on the abrasive and impact your work (I am assuming that you really care about the quality of your work...otherwise why ask these questions)...so I would caution against this advantage, because if it is an advantage for you...you are doing it wrong to begin with.

If you are on a budget and have the sense to stop when you get tired (when risk of mistakes goes up), the non-continuous stones are fine. If you can find continuous stones for less (in the same size) I would say it is a no-brainer!
 
I am not really too worried about the price. I guess I just need to know if the holes on the non continuous stones really offer that much of an advantage. Does the swarf build up on the continuous stone really make that much difference? If I maintain a continuous stone properly(lubricate, rinse etc) will I really see a negative impact from swarf buildup? I personally like the idea of the continuous stone over the one with the holes. I am an electrician and my work knives see some abuse and its not uncommon for me to come home with a tip that is a little f-ed up so I find myself needing to grind in a new tip fairly often. With the non continuous stones I wont have an uninterrupted surface to use to put a new tip on.

I did a little search while I was typing this and came across the duosharp plus which has the holes over most of the stone plus an uninterrupted area. This seems like the best of both worlds. SharpeningSupplies.com has a set with all 4 grits plus a base for $139. Looks like a winner. Do any of you guys have experience with this particular DMT stone?

Thanks
ET
 
Talley1013 said:
I am not really too worried about the price. I guess I just need to know if the holes on the non continuous stones really offer that much of an advantage. Does the swarf build up on the continuous stone really make that much difference? If I maintain a continuous stone properly(lubricate, rinse etc) will I really see a negative impact from swarf buildup? I personally like the idea of the continuous stone over the one with the holes. I am an electrician and my work knives see some abuse and its not uncommon for me to come home with a tip that is a little f-ed up so I find myself needing to grind in a new tip fairly often. With the non continuous stones I wont have an uninterrupted surface to use to put a new tip on.

I did a little search while I was typing this and came across the duosharp plus which has the holes over most of the stone plus an uninterrupted area. This seems like the best of both worlds. SharpeningSupplies.com has a set with all 4 grits plus a base for $139. Looks like a winner. Do any of you guys have experience with this particular DMT stone?

Thanks
ET
Click to expand...

What 'unit' mentioned about the polka-dots, being overly hyped as advantageous for collecting the swarf, is very accurate. I'm finding the swarf isn't ordinarily much of an issue anyways, unless you're doing some extremely heavy grinding on relatively soft steel. Even then, if you're conscientious about it, just give the hone a little rinse with water after 10-20 passes, and you'll be fine. That's good sharpening practice anyway, with any stone, so far as I'm concerned.

I have one of the larger Duo-Sharp hones (C/F). Mine is a slightly older one, without the extra continuous surface 'pad' for tips. I find it to be excellent overall. The continuous hones will cut VERY fast by comparison, and they really excel at the finer grits (EF/EEF). But, that's not to say the interrupted surface hones won't get the job done in a timely manner either. They will. And, as unit pointed out, they are VERY durable.
 
One other concept for thought. All things equal, bigger is generally better for hones...but temper this with thinking ahead to what grits you will buy.

I say this because, a really good goal to have when amassing your sharpening equipment (if you are going to free hand) is you want all the hones to be the same size (length, width, and height). This eliminates the need for all your muscles to adjust to a change when you progress through the grits.

I find that 8x3 is fantastic because every grit is offered from EEC to EEF and the size is big enough for most blades I use (to make a single stroke for the entire edge). I started with 2x6 inch stones and found that they were both too small, and not available in some grits (EEC and EEF). If you are prepared to say right now that you will never do blades over a few inches, never need a EEC stone, and never want to polish to 8000 grit or beyond, then 2x6 will be fine.

I offer this because a great deal now, may not seem so great later when you wish you had a full set of 8x3s later.

I generally advise most people starting with DMTs to buy ONE hone (the 8x3 coarse). This single stone can be used to reprofile (it takes longer than an EEC, but it works), and it will leave an edge that easily shaves and performs well. You can learn a lot with ONE stone. Then you can add stones later depending on what you perceive your needs to be.

Swarf build up? It depends on what you are doing, and what you are working on. When I get up to pretty high polish, I find that I get best results when I rinse the hone after every 20 passes. It seems excessive, but I can see the difference in results with magnification...can you sharpen without rinsing the hones? Sure, but are you obsessed with achieving the best results, or simply sharpening a knife? (no wrong answer here...just food for thought).

If you are truly hooked on this whole notion of sharpening to obsessive standards...it does not matter what you buy now because you are destined to accumulate MANY different tools for making things sharp LOL
 
ok so I guess I am going to get the 8x3 continuous stones. I will start out with the xc,c,f and xf. If I decide to add on the xxc and xxf later I will.

For you guys that have that setup what do you use to elevate the stone off of your work bench? SharpeningSupplies.com has a stone holder that looks like it would do the trick. Is there something better out there that I dont know about? Does DMT make a specific holder for the 8x3 continuous stones? Thanks for the help guys. You guys rule!

ET
 
Talley1013 said:
ok so I guess I am going to get the 8x3 continuous stones. I will start out with the xc,c,f and xf. If I decide to add on the xxc and xxf later I will.

For you guys that have that setup what do you use to elevate the stone off of your work bench? SharpeningSupplies.com has a stone holder that looks like it would do the trick. Is there something better out there that I dont know about? Does DMT make a specific holder for the 8x3 continuous stones? Thanks for the help guys. You guys rule!

ET
Click to expand...

I started off with the same set that you got - make sure to check around the internet there are some good package deals to be had.

I have one of those generic waterstone/stone holders that has 3 black plastic bases and then some metal rods that move it up and down. I really like it and would suggest that. DMT doesn't make specific holders for the 8x3, just a plastic non-slip mat.

I have an xxc on the way and will buy an xxf next paycheck or two.

Also, I really like the diafolds for EDC/bag carry. You can look around and get a set that comes with xc/c (black/blue) and then fine/xf (red/green) along with the guide system. It might be called magna guide system or something. Even if you don't want the guide rod portion, it is a good deal for that set of diafolds. It takes up minimal space and has xc, c, f, xf that should cover most of your sharpening needs when not at home.
 
there's even a EF/EEF diafold.

for elevating i use the rubber feet that come with the plates and stack 2 or 3 plates.
 
cool thanks guys I am looking @ the same stone holder you have obsessis. Looks like I know what to order.

ET
 
I have the continuous in XXC and XXF (8 inch), these grits do not come in non-continuous (NC).
THe range from XC to XF are in non-continous form in my sharpening closet, the large variety (10 inch).
I like the size of the non continuous and _never_ had any problem with snagging tips in the holes. The NC feel durable and work great with the base underneath it. I sometimes get the feeling that they wear differently per stone on different places on the stone, like the diamonds come off on the edges or something, can't really explain it in english.
The continuous ones are heavier and I like that all metal feeling of them.

overall, I don't have a final judgement. Both work fine for me :)

I do however like the dmt products very very much....
 
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