DMT Dia-Sharp EEF

Bumblingtinkerer

Bumblingtinkerer

Joined
Jun 10, 2013
Messages
107
Hi guys, I've been looking at the DMT tan stones, the extra extra fine ones that are sold as 8k grit. Does anyone have experience with this stone? What's the scratch pattern look like? I'm just curious because I'm on my way to mirror edges. I can do mirror edges but it takes a while to buff 1200 grit scratches. Any help is appreciated, thanks, Lucas
 
If you can find it I'd get the limited edition MEF (that's medium extra fine). The EEF plate is relitively controversial, they take a long time to break in and some people say they never fully break in. The scratch pattern is no where near as fine as a 8k water stone. Now I love my DMT's and I always recommend them but in your case, already having a setup and just looking for a higher polish I don't think its the best piece for you. Maybe check into a extra fine spyderco ceramic or like I said the MEF DMT.

Have you tried stroping on glass or leather with diamond spray? I polish my bevels pretty highly, off my EF DMT I move up to a ~2500grit fine spyderco ceramic and then go right into my strop, I do want to add the extra fine ceramic 3x8" stone myself tho. Just to see how it'll work you can pick up a set of sharpmaker extra fine rods for under $15.
 
Wouldn't breaking in the stone be a bit easier with just using a cheap knife and working the stone for awhile to break it in work? I did that with my DMT course/fine/extra fine stones. It would have been a bit annoying using the stone normally I will admit, but I just took my sweet time and really worked the stones on a cheap knife till I I broke it in. Or is the break in time significantly longer than the other DMT stones I own?

I found keeping an old toothbrush nearby and quickly brushing it off frequently kept the stone relatively clean and unclogged since I was using it dry. Which is how I was able to break all 3 stones in relatively quickly. (This wasn't a Diasharp, but on the duosharp stones I received with my Aligner).
 
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The Ultra-Fine white stone from Spyderco will do the same thing at a much more cost-effective pricepoint.

I am a big fan of DMT stones and have been using them for well over 15 years now.

I think that they made a mistake by leaving too much of a gap in-between the extra-fine (green) and extra-extra fine (tan).

Even though they have that limited-edition stone mentioned above, it isn't that easy to find it for sale (at least I haven't had any luck in looking for one).
 
Some years ago I put together a set of DMT stone from the diasharp line. I heard many of the same comments when I asked about the EEF and after several years of use I can say most negative comments made about the EEF are simply not true.

To start, it requires break-in just like ALL OTHER DMT stones, the fine stones all break-in at similar rates so its nothing to worry about. It's not 8000 grit, its 8000 mesh which is more like a 3k-4k waterstone and not the 8k that everyone expects.

Last but not least, gap between the EF and EEF is perfectly fine. If it wasn't there would be a lot of complaints. I've made the jump a few thousand times without issue.
 
I recently bought a DMT MEF... I won't be going finer, this is enough.

This was a recent thread about how far is far enough:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...t-Requires-Extra-Work?p=12998756#post12998756

When it comes to field knives used for cutting down wood and wood working, I tend to agree with it. When someone achieves a level of sharpening skill, they can get a knife really sharp with a fine plate alone. I'm not there yet, but I'm getting closer. That's where my EF and MEF come in... They help make up deficiencies in my technique.

I had to sharpen my Santoku last week. All I used was my EF and MEF... When I was done it went through tomatoes like no one's business. All I had to do was pull back under the weight of the knife, no downward force.
 
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