DMT Magna-Guide question

[KarlMaldensNose]

I was wondering if the Magna-Guide/Aligner produces those funny looking tips with wide bevels like the Edge Pro does (for alot users)?

I just got rid of my Edge Pro with hopes of going freehand but I'm not quite ready. Afterall, the Edge Pro exited the scene largely because I was having trouble holding the knife steady enough to get a consistently even bevel. Anyway, I've always wanted some Diafolds, so I thought why not grab the Guide for a few more bucks just to try it. But the aforementioned tip issue concerns me. The wide bevel at the tip can actually be avoided on the EP by making sure the edge is positioned so that it's always (for the most part, anyway) perpendicular (90 degrees) to the stone. But with the Aligner the knife is locked in and can't be rotated, so the tip gets hit with a lower angle which results in a wider bevel ... or at least that's the way I see it. Am I understanding this correctly?

 

[zyhano]

On a different note, I think you are totally ready.. You definitely have invested time in the theory of it all, seeing that you have been here often on this subforum, and you definitely have some good experience sharpening.

I feel that I am unable to hold a steady edge and have a range of degrees in which I move the blade, probably about 5 deg range my guess (making it slightly convex). But i can get my knives hair whittling sharp.

I have the strong feeling that people, including myself, choose too "waIt till I have more skills" or "wait till i'm ready"... While they could just have started and acquire/expAnd the skill.

I sharpen all my knives freehand now even the more expensive ones and just take it easy. Practice sometimes on kitchen knives or when i see a dollar knife ( kitchen or util) I buy it and get it sharp or reprofile it ot just practice what I think is needed to improve my skill.

I have not messed up any blade permanently, but by taking the step to go freehand I have definitely learned more than I could have had I not taken that step!

Can't answer your question since I don't have a magna guide

And I will not be getting an edge pro too

 

[cziv]

I freehand with my Dia-Folds but I have used the magna-guide a bunch of times. I can't explain theories etc. - but it didn't put a long wide bevel on my folders. I've only used it on about 4 or 5 folders and the tips look fine.

I will agree with zyhano though. I found it more of a pain in the backside to set-up, get the angle I wanted and use than simply wetting down the Dia-Fold and giving it some strokes freehand. It's the reverse of stropping. You just lock an angle in and go for it.

It might vary + or - from one day to another but that gives it a slight convex, in the worse case scenario. I use a marker and check my angles (sometimes) and then sharpen. It doesn't take many passes. 6 to a 12 is the most I ever use. After I finish one grit I check the edge and if it feels a little sharper on one side than the other (catches the skin or plastic pen) I'll give a light pass and remove that.

I have x-coarse, coarse, fine, x-fine and xx-fine. Then I use strops with paste first, then diamond spray strops 1 micron and .5 micron - Hand American.

One caveat, if you want to re-profile to a very thin bevel, be careful that your stone doesn't make contact with any of the spine part - if it's not a full flat ground blade.

I put some light scratches on a "user" Random Leek Blem that I use in my office for mail and box opening by going so steep that I made contact with a thicker portion of the spine.

No biggie but on an expensive knife, it would be a real heart breaker. You can do it - it's easy.

 

[Any Cal.]

To the original question, on some blade shapes it will do it to an extent. I haven't seen it to the extent that I have seen it on EP pics, but to be fair, many of those are a very shallow bevel which would show it more.

I didn't see an issue on an ESEE Izula, or on a Buck Mayo Kaala, but did notice a bit of it on a Buck 110. I *think* that proper setup and a shorter blade helps get rid of or minimize the issue. Position the guide to where the distance from rod holder to tip is similiar to the other areas of the bevel to keep a more consistent angle. Also, bevels that have a belly or curve that naturally follows the radius of the MG tend to get the most even sharpening, IMO/E.

 

[cziv]

To the original question, on some blade shapes it will do it to an extent. I haven't seen it to the extent that I have seen it on EP pics, but to be fair, many of those are a very shallow bevel which would show it more.

I didn't see an issue on an ESEE Izula, or on a Buck Mayo Kaala, but did notice a bit of it on a Buck 110. I *think* that proper setup and a shorter blade helps get rid of or minimize the issue. Position the guide to where the distance from rod holder to tip is similiar to the other areas of the bevel to keep a more consistent angle. Also, bevels that have a belly or curve that naturally follows the radius of the MG tend to get the most even sharpening, IMO/E.

I definitely agree 100%. I was going to add the shorter blade portion but got in a hurry. If you're clamped 1/2 way on a 3 - 4" blade, then there's not a lot of room on either side for angle change. The MG won't go as shallow as an Edge Pro either. :thumbup: