DMT or Naniwa (Chosera) Stones Question

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Brew-Jitsu

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Oct 22, 2012
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As someone new to freehand sharpening, I am wondering what the general consensus is for the best investment of diamond vs. waterstone, specifically the DMT and Chosera stones.

Of what's available related to sharpening, it seems like most of the people on BladeForums prefer diamond, but maybe that is just based one what I have found thus far.

Please let me know what would be the smartest move, and thank you, in advance, for any suggestions. (I am new to the Forum, and I am loving all of the great information out there).

Thanks.
 
I have gone with DMT diamond hones for long-term durability and ease of maintenance.

I also like Spyderco ceramics for edge maintenance and polishing. It is annoying when they load up from metal particles though.

I don't have any experience with any water stones at all. I do have a Norton combination india fine/coarse that I need to try out.
 
Diamond stones are for high wear steels. If your collection does not consist of many hard to sharpen super steels then they will not be worth the investment. Similar goes for waterstones, lost of carbon and low alloy stainless in your collection then they will be the perfect choice.

If you have a mix then purchase a full set of waterstones and two or three diamond stones.


As a side note, do not try and compare waterstones to diamond in cutting ability, sharpness, or ability to polish as they are completely different stones with different uses. They in no way perform the same.
 
knifenut1013 said:
Diamond stones are for high wear steels. If your collection does not consist of many hard to sharpen super steels then they will not be worth the investment. Similar goes for waterstones, lost of carbon and low alloy stainless in your collection then they will be the perfect choice.

If you have a mix then purchase a full set of waterstones and two or three diamond stones.


As a side note, do not try and compare waterstones to diamond in cutting ability, sharpness, or ability to polish as they are completely different stones with different uses. They in no way perform the same.
Click to expand...

knifenut1013 - This is very helpful (as were your articles - I have some leather on the way to make my on strop). Based on what I have it seems like waterstones will be the way to go. As my collection grows - and gets better in quality - I will switch to diamond.

Thanks again.
 
I have various examples of both types, and my advice is:
- If you plan to do reprofilings is worthy to have diamond stones, because they cut very fast and reduce the time in almost have when you need to remove quite a bit of material, all though the finishing of the edge is very toothy unless you go for EEfine (very expenssive).
- With most steels and when you have to maintain and edge I prefer water stones, they leave a very nice polish even on the same grit.
Final advice to keep budget low:
- DMT coarse or extracoarse and fine
- japanese waterstone double sided 1000/6000
- leather strop double sided aswell with compound and bare leather.

With these you can do almost any job in any steel and you decide what you like more.
hope it helps

Mateo
 
lutejones said:
I have various examples of both types, and my advice is:
- If you plan to do reprofilings is worthy to have diamond stones, because they cut very fast and reduce the time in almost have when you need to remove quite a bit of material, all though the finishing of the edge is very toothy unless you go for EEfine (very expenssive).
- With most steels and when you have to maintain and edge I prefer water stones, they leave a very nice polish even on the same grit.
Final advice to keep budget low:
- DMT coarse or extracoarse and fine
- japanese waterstone double sided 1000/6000
- leather strop double sided aswell with compound and bare leather.

With these you can do almost any job in any steel and you decide what you like more.
hope it helps

Mateo
Click to expand...

Mateo - Do you like the continuous diamond stones or the interrupted?
 
I like the interrupted surface because it's more controllable since has less diamonds on the same surface, and is more than enough for remaking a bevel.
The continuous surface is great at lower grits when you have a hard job to do like regrinding a flat ground blade to a more thinner primary bevel or taking a Scandi grind with secondary edge to a Scandi zero.
So, see what you need to do and pick the most adequate, both types work very well.
Mateo
 
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