DMT rust problems

L

lsstaipei

Joined
Jan 28, 2000
Messages
131
hi everyone,
I guess I need some help.I just found some tiny rust spots on one of my 6" DMT.What can I do to keep them from getting worse?They have not pitted.
By the way,anyone sharpen CPM steel knives with Japanese Water stones?
Are the edges produced by JWS as good as the edges produced by DMT if not better?And anyone prefer JWS?

Thank you for your help.
 
Originally posted by lsstaipei
hi everyone,
I guess I need some help.I just found some tiny rust spots on one of my 6" DMT.What can I do to keep them from getting worse?They have not pitted.
By the way,anyone sharpen CPM steel knives with Japanese Water stones?
Are the edges produced by JWS as good as the edges produced by DMT if not better?And anyone prefer JWS?

Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...

Here's what to do about the DMT - take a Scotchbrite or similar scouring pad and some abrasive type powered kitchen cleanser (Ajax, Comet, etc) and scrub the surface of the hones. This should get out the rust spots if they aren't too bad. The rust is actually caused by fines leftover from the sharpening process rusting on the surface of the hone. If you rinse the hone thoughroughly following use and dry it good, this is a way to prevent this from happening again. Hope this info helps.
 
MIL-TEC.. there is just no reason for corrosion on any metal
surface anylonger...get some mil-tec
 
I am with Dexter on the cleaning. I have only once allowed mine to rust and that was how I fixed it. If you clean and dry them after use, it won't be a problem. If you don't use water as a lubricant, rusting isn't a problem in the first place.

I have used Japanese Waterstones on CPM's steels, specifically 3V, 10V, S90V and 15V. I prefer DMT hones because they cut the steel more aggressively under low force and the CPM blades are very thin and tend to bend under heavy force.

In theory AO hones should also not produce optimal edges on very hard carbided steels because of an inability of the hone to cut the carbides. I have however not really tested this except to note that long term sharpening with a ceramic rod on a CPM-10V knife lead to a loss in aggression.

-Cliff
 
I have BIG TIME RUST problems with any diamond coated product that I bring near the boats I work on, so I simply bring a stone.

However, I have TRIED to repair a few badly rusted (from only about 36 hours of exposure, and I rinsed a few times too) DMT diafolds, if they are bad, you will never get it all out. I think they rust up quickly because the diamonds cut the steel so finely and rapidly. The two diafolds I have here at the house are always used with tap-water, and that won't make them rust. They haven't rusted in 4 years, and I sometimes give a couple swipes, and put them away wet, freshwater wont hurt em. To clean them I take an old t-shirt rag (the best for everything knives/guns) wet the dmt/rag, and wipe it.

Why would you militec your dmt? Wouldn't heating the dmt mess around with its plastic dots? Would the militec interfere with the diamonds/sharpening? I never put anything on top of these but freshwater. I also don't think that militec is the greatest rust-preventative product. Lubricates great, that is what it was invented to do, it does not protect very well against rust. Obvioulsy if you have it coated on you blade "wet" it will be better than most, but once it is wiped away, I can't see it being better than tuf-cloth. Just IMHO here guys. Thanks for the time.

JC
 
bonds with metal at the molecular level..it adds a barrier..
and it doesnt come off..you can wipe it..it will look clean..but
the miltec is still there... check with the U S MILITARY...
its what they lub their weapons with..miltec.only....
dont confuse corrosion with rust...untill a metal has
seasoned..with repeated coatings of even just oil..it can show
stained crosion..thats just surface event..it comes off..
one thing about miltec..dont use it on any blade you going to
eat from or cut and eat from ...it tasts nasty!!!!!!!
 
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