Do balisongs need a rear bolster?

Chuck Gedraitis Knives

Chuck Gedraitis Knives

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Dec 10, 1998
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I have another balisong in the works, made most of it today. Titanium liners 3/32 thick and titanium front bolsters. It is a smaller knife with a 3-3 1/2 in blade and the bolsters are about 1 in. I am deciding on whether or not to put rear bolsers on it or just but on the scales with front bolsters. I know that most of the time the rear bolsters are added for the weight but I don't think that it will need the extra weight, the spacers are 5/32 O-1. Are they usually just for asthetics? I have also designed my own type of latch, I will post pics in a couple of days when I finish it.
Thanks,
Chuck
 
I don't even know what rear bolsters are... :(

But if you try to search this forum, I think you will find threads that describe how the balance ratio in a balisong should be (or ask Tony, he will for sure find it for ya :D).

And one more thing that I'm sure we'd all be very happy to see (yes, you know it): Pictures. :D
 
I wouldn't think it'd need rear bolsters, it would look pretty interesting w/out them as long as the scale material could take the stress of impacts and latching?
 
The old BM customs needed the rear bolster to fit the glued in dovetailed inserts. Aside from that, there's no reason that a rear bolster is required in the construction of the bali. My Wendell Fox bali does not have a rear bolster, but with the thin brass latch, could have used one to offset that massive blade. If the handles are heavy enough to allow for good manipulation, as you've indicated, then you should be fine.
 
What nybble alluded to is probably the most compelling argument for rear bolsters. The metal latch will be rubbing, pushing, and banging into whatever handle material you use. The metal liner will absorb some but not all of this impact. Even Micarta will probably show accelerated wear if impacted repeatedly by a metal latch. I've always assumed the use of metal rear bolsters was primarily for wear resistance, although they do look nice as well. If this is a collectible knife only (no flipping) then, of course, wear resistance wouldn't be an issue.
 
If the insert material was radiused very slightly at the rear bolster end, then the latch would not come in contact with it, and no need to worry about wear. The first point of friction will always be the liners. Which, if you decide to follow through, will then require that you make sure the insert material is out of the latch's travel. Or to simply make the latch no wider than the width of the 2 liners, if you are still concerned with the wear issue. The Wendall Fox bali and the small custom bali in my pic here both don't have rear bolsters, and I don't see any wear issues from the latch on the handle inserts:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=184477&perpage=20&pagenumber=2

There is one advantage to the rear bolsters I didn't mention earlier: It'll strengthen the latch pin installation, if compared to a non-bolstered handle. More metal will provide a better anchor point than any insert material and liners alone.
 
Rear bolster: The companion piece to a front bolster.

Bolster (from AG Russell's Knive Encyclopedia): The metal material at the blade end of knife handle.
 
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