Do Stones Rock?

C

Confederate

Joined
Sep 5, 2005
Messages
2,826
Okay, I couldn't help the title of this thread. It just popped out of my head.

I want to invest in some good sharpening tools, but what am I looking for?

There are diamond pads, ceramic rods, and Arkansas stones. Some folks use oil or water; others don't.

I want something along the lines of 300-, 600-, and 1200-grit to put really good edges on to my knives. But do I want to use diamond pads, which remove more steel, or should I look for some ceramic stones or rods? Some people like stones, but I think I'd like to stay with synthetic if that's the best.

Unless dropped, ceramic rods and stones should last almost forever, except the course ones. But how about diamond pads? Are diamonds really forever? And what of the illustrious Sharpmaker? Is that all I'll ever need?

Finally, ease of cleaning plays a factor. So far, an old toothbrush and some Comet don't seem to be doing that great of a job, at least for my course rods. I still see splotches of what looks like embedded steel. Do I need to worry about that or is it a cosmetic thing only?

Thanks!

sharpening_knives.jpg

Ah, they all seem to make it all sound so...uncomplicated. But
is it? There are so many opinions.
 
Actually, I have a diamond benchstone that rocks, so I put a rubber mat under it when I use it. :D

You can get all the equipment in the world, but it's the experience of using a few good tools that works best.

A Sharpmaker or other guided system is a good idea for maintenance. I like my fine diamond stone for working a bit faster than ceramic and giving me a steady flat surface to work against. I also like a coarse and fine ceramic for final polishing. And learning to strop with sandpaper and a leather strop will give you other options, like a good convex edge.

Pick a couple of these and play with them on cheap knives like Moras, sodbusters, and Opinels. You need a little practice to get good results freehand.
 
For the price od one decent 4K/8K combo waterstone, you can get a 1X30 belt sander and an assortment of belts.
 
It depends on how many knives you want to sharpen, how often you sharpen, whether you want polished or micro-serrated edges, what sort of steel your knives are, whether you want to just sharpen or whether you might want to change the edge bevel angle, and whether you are good at free-hand sharpening already.
There are too many options to recommend without more information.
Greg
 
I've tried the Sharpmaker, and Edge Pro, a belt sander, diamond and natural bench stones, and sandpaper with a mouse pad. They all work.

The Sharpmaker has the easiest learning curve. I believe a Sharpmaker with an xcourse stone covers covers 99% of what you need to do, with excellent results. I've done polished edges with strops, including a power strop, and the polished edge is great for woodworking knives. But for most cutting I find the white Spyderco fine rods give me a more useful, albeit less "impressive" edge.

You need an xcourse (or xxcourse) with the Sharpmaker because the one thing the Sharpmaker is downright lousy at is reprofiling (or rebeveling or whatever you choose to call it). Plenty of knives have edges (or parts of edges) over 40 degrees. Plus, even if they're under 40, they still benefit from being honed thinner. In fact, for me, the easiest edge to maintain is 10-12 degrees per side, using the Sharpmaker to maintain a "microbevel." You use the xcourse to thin the edge down and then finish with the Sharpmaker. So with my suggestion, you're using both freehand and the V-rods.

I clean my Spyderco rods with Comet and water on a kitchen sponge. It has always worked fine for me. The method I use is sort of like :jerkit:.

Diamonds work great and cut fast. They also stay flat, something other kinds of stones don't do. Diamonds do wear out, but last a fairly long time if you use a light touch (unlike some people :o).

The other tools and systems I've used serve more specific functions. The Edge Pro puts a precise, perfect looking edge on your knife. If looks and precision are important to you, save your money and get one. The belt sander is very fast. The sandpaper and mouse pads are for convex edges.

I've never used 4000/8000 water stones. A lot of people here seem to swear by them. I may be wrong but I think in general their aim is the absolute finest edge possible -- one that can whittle (not merely split) a fine hair, push cut toilet paper, and split atoms. I believe there's a bit of a crossover with these folks and those who advocate very thin edges (to me, less than 20degrees inclusive). If this appeals to you, have at it.

Most important, as Esav suggests, PRACTICE!
 
Thanks for all the advice. Getting the edge the way I want it is the most important thing. Polishing it also is important, but 1200-grit should be fine. I'll have to experiment.

I think Ben was on the right track about the price of waterstones. I'll have to stay with ceramic or diamond. Lansky has a system of diamond sharpeners with an angle guide. I may look into getting one of those. Opinions?

sharpen6.jpg

Lansky sharpening system. Training wheels for those just starting out? But
is the honing oil really necessary?
 
I have the GATCO Professional kit. Guided rod system similar to the Lansky. Mine has the stone for serrated knives.

I added the GATCO extra fine hone and ultimate finishing hone. Then I strop using homemade strops from Tandy scrap leather loaded with white and red polishing compound from Sears. Total cost less than $100.

I get a nice shaving sharp plus edge.

I can maintain using just the strops or use the finishing stone.

I get repeatable angles.

It is easy to use.

Replacement stones are relatively inexpensive.

It was easy to learn to use.

I can use it on all but the largest and smallest of knives.

I can not do a convex edge.

I have 6 angle options available.
 
I've used the Lansky for years and upgraded to the diamond hones a few years ago. Many on the forums put the guided rod systems down, but mine has worked well for me. I will say it is better on smaller blades and you need to be consistent on where you clamp a blade to maintain the same angle. Good luck in whatever you choose.

Gary
 
Well, I'm leaning towards the Lansky Deluxe, but I haven't heard anything really negative about it. At first blush it looks a bit gimmicky, but for $40 I would think that I should be able to get my money out of it. There's also a system called a Diafold Magna-Guide Sharpener, which also goes for $40, but it only contains stones for fine and extra fine. The Lansky comes with stones going from extra course to ultrafine. This and my Sharpmaker ought to do me for the rest of my life. As for Columbia River's Sharpslide, it's way too limiting. It won't even sharpen many of its own knives! (It has two guides, neither of which is well suited for chisel grind knives.)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top