Lubricate them with very little lubricant. just a drop or two on all metal to metal contact surfaces. Then use a Q-tip or something similar and just spread it around, the excess will get soaked up by the cotton. if you dont do this the lubricant will fling out when you open the blades, excess lubricant will attract dirt and dust etc and require more frequent cleaning due to the debris. There is NO reason to have LOTS of lubrication. its just there to protect the metal and a very little goes a long way to coat the surface of the metal.
AVOID snake oil like nano oil, diamond lube, slick50. they are all the same snake oil marketing. people use this junk and use it in excess. the guy who sells it doesnt even know what the nano particles actually are. its only popular because he keeps pushing it on people. it wont actually pass any standardized lubrication tests what so ever and requires you to change it often. iirc its just expensive mineral oil with nano flakes of something in them that do nothing for knives. do the research, if you look at posts since its introduction. bob's the oil guy has some info too. its not better than anything else on the market. use machine oil, mineral oil, synthetic oil, anything else will give you the same results or better. why pay more for something that is snake oil, has ZERO verifiable testing, unknown substances in it, and a salesman that wont answer any legitimate questions about it, just pushing the product?
you dont have to lubricate all knives, but using a good lube will protect the metal surfaces. i use a custom synethic lubricant. it treats the metal surfaces and ball bearings.
some lubricants
mineral oil is food safe, if you do food prep use only this. re-apply after washing the knife. apply to high carbon blades so they dont rust *(fluid film also works for coating blades with)
diawa
machine oil
mobile one
boker lube
benchmade blue lube
etc
and then there is finishline grease, which works great for washers, speedsafe lockbars, and some ball bearings.
WD40 is spirits with mineral oil when left to dry. it works, ok, but need to re-apply more often.
Hi fellas. Just received another new knife, a Boker Plus Scoundrel Framelock. After all these years and many different knives,I usually put in a couple of drops of sewing machine oil in the pivot. My question is,do most of you just let the washers smooth out, or do you have a routine of a drop or two of lubricant?
if you use a good synthetic lubricant, it will penetrate the phosphors bronze washers within a few days to protect it. if they are nylon than use some grease compatible with those nylon washers.
if they are phosphors bronze, you can remove them and get some fine grit sand paper or a strop with stroping compound on it, and circle them on it. it will make it very smooth and shinny. this will make it much smoother.
highly recommend taking the knives apart to clean first before lubricating (search youtube, if a video not available for your specific blade, just watch enough videos and you can get the hang of it) blades with locktite from the factory like spyderco's, you will need to use a hair dryer to soften up the locktite so you can remove the screws without stripping them (dont overheat it tho). clean with zippo lighter fluid or 90+% rubbing alcohol or something of the sorts. there are lots of gun cleaner fluids that work aswell. i would'nt get a cleaner & lubricant in one, as they never work that well for both actions.
