Dodgy sharpening rig advice

U

urbantrapper

Joined
Dec 13, 2018
Messages
204
Ok boys. I might be in a little over my head but I thought id see what the forum has to say.

What ive got is a lansky crockstick turnbox sharpener, with a side of ingenuity to attempt to sharpen m390. Im trying to sharpen a Lionsteel Roundhead and the normal sticks dont do much to the supersteel, so im wrapping silicon carbide sandpaper around the sticks and clipping them with some office paper clamps. Im getting somewhere on 800 grit slowly, but I have more questions. You see I dont think the factory edge is at the 20 dps that my sticks are at, and I prefer my edge angle at (for ease of sharpening on my system).

Firstly what grit should I start on and progess through to get my edge to the necessary 20dps? Secondly, roughly how many passes per grit do you think is needed to get this shaped up? I have sandpaper up to 3000 grit but I will say the paper is cheap and creases fairly easily, especially with the lower grits. It would be really cool to get this baby to the correct angle for my kit and maybe a mirror or close to mirror edge on it! Please anyone experienced or with opinions on my rig please weigh in. For now im just gonna keep going on this 800 for a while and try the sharpie trick.
 
My advice? Honestly, just stop. You're encountering the major disadvantage of crock stick style sharpeners; lack of angle diversity. They suck. Sypderco Sharpmaker included. You should never be trying to force a knife to conform to the angle of your sharpening gear. Your sharpening gear should conform to the knife. Besides, 20dps is less than ideal. ;)

Invest in a system that allows for far more flexibility (like the KME R.P.S.H. for starters) or dive into freehand.

If you insist on using that method, the only thing I can think of is to paint the bevel with a marker and use low grit paper. I'd probably go down to at least 120 if not courser until I had the edge re-profiled.
 
Hi,
What coarser grits do you have?
Any aluminum oxide paper?
Got cardboard? Glue? Wood? Book?

urbantrapper said:
You see I dont think the factory edge is at the 20 dps that my sticks are at, and I prefer my edge angle at (for ease of sharpening on my system).
Click to expand...
Thinking won't do,
you have to measure,
use the sharpie,
paint the edge,
take a stroke or two,
see where marker gets removed,
maybe put a millimeter ruler on the knife,
get a good idea of where you stand




urbantrapper said:
paper is cheap and creases fairly easily,
Click to expand...
Just because you have skinny angled crock sticks
doesn't mean you have to use them for everything :)
Or press hard when sharpening

you've already bought the secret, its triangles,
now make a custom one for your sandpapers,
1inch wide
it doesn't take much

Get a book,
or fold and glue some cardboard
or glue/screw some wood
...
triangles are easy to make
or you can simply hold a book in one hand,
line it up with lansky turnbox rods,
and then sharpen on the sandpaper clipped to the wide book spine



urbantrapper said:
Firstly what grit should I start on and progess through to get my edge to the necessary 20dps?
Secondly, roughly how many passes per grit do you think is needed to get this shaped up?
Click to expand...
As coarse as required as informed by magic marker eyeball measurement.
The usual coarse starting points are 200-400 grit
but for regrinds you could go lower (see below)
however many passes it takes on the first coarse grit,
the first grit is gonna take the longest,
but subsequently much less
(see below)

Recommendation? - How many strokes on a whetstone?


the secret is triangles, but you're not limited by the included skinny lansky turnbox rods or skinny sharpmaker triangle rods, you can use any available abrasive


Efficient grinding reprofiling with sharpmaker 1-3 minutes * 10 steps = 10-30 minutes total to drop angle from 20 degrees per side to 15 degrees in half degree steps , Reprofiling/Sharpening CPM 3V? - Page 2 - Spyderco Forums


If angle is 25 degrees, and you're wanting to end up at 20 degrees,
grind at an angle in between (ex 24 degrees)
and in 1-3 minutes you'll be ready to drop it again (ex 23 degrees),
If you use something in the 220 grit or lower,

you might be do it in 10 minutes or less
as long as you grind efficiently ,
in steps, always on the shoulder
...
it depends on starting thickness

paint the edge with green sharpie magic marker and keep paint at the edge, grind behind
dont take it all the way to raising a burr with P80 grit
...
 
Ok! Thanks for the info! Lot to take in there, and I realize this isnt the nost tried and true method. I want a sharpmaker but its just not in the budget yet.

The lowest grit I could get to comfortably sit on the rods without creasing was 320. I went away on that for a long while and sharpied etc until I was satisfied that I was at 20 on both sides. Since then I have progressed through 600, 800, and 1000. Thats where I am now and the results are decent. Nothing appears damaged in fact it looks pretty nice and is getting pretty sharp. But I plan to soldier on and really hone it and strop it to ensure there are no burrs.

If it goes south, lesson learned! If it all pans out I think I might be happy with my budget rig. Thanks again for the tips amigos!
 
Eli Chaps said:
You're encountering the major disadvantage of crock stick style sharpeners; lack of angle diversity. They suck. Sypderco Sharpmaker included.
Click to expand...

Can't you prop up one end of the base to change the angle? It's not a particularly difficult calculation.
 
Sure, but some people really like the reference angle the Sharpmaker provides and it's easy to change that by propping up one end of the base.
 
In the end it looks pretty good. I didnt get a mirror but I got a really nice edge, much better than before I attempted this. On the higher grits I went from 1000 to 1500 to 2000 then to 3000, its just what I have laying around. I think my bevel is at 20 dps now as it seems the progress made a difference and it got sharper and sharper as I went up in grit. Probably not a great permanent solution but ill surely use it to maintain my one m390 knife until I can upgrade.
 
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