Does a scandi benefit from a convex, or a v edge?

[ackeith4570]

Would a convex or a v-edge help a scandi grind or should i just leave it the way it is?

 

[ChapmanPreferred]

As I understand it, a true scandi edge is just that a saber (not full height) grind down to zero. Most Mora of Sweden knives I have purchased have had some degree of secondary bevel which I diligently work to remove. If the edge is not robust enough for your cutting tasks at a true scandi then you could microbevel or slightly convex the edge to improve edge stability. I have also have a "scandi-vex" grind on another knife that looks like a scandi grind but the whole bevel is convex like an ax edge. Much more stable but does not perform in the same manner. It performs well, but not exactly the same.

 

[awestib]

A scandi is a "v-edge", the only difference is that the "v-edge" was put on a blade 1/8, 5/32 etc. thick and that the angle of the bevel is usually less than 15 dps. That is why you see such a large bevel. Some scandis are flat, some have a slight convex, some have a microbevel. If you need a microbevel, don't get a scandi. However a slight convex to the scandi (which usually happens anyway if you sharpen it free hand) contributes to some more durability of the apex and, maybe more important, to better performance actually in making feathersticks or wood shavings IMHO.

 

[goodshepherdknives]

not sure if the video link will work

http://static.photobucket.com/playe...strom/VID_20130904_125215_432_zpsbe467dad.mp4

the above url is the copied direct link from photobucket

<a href=http://s1360.photobucket.com/albums/r660/DerekBergstrom/?action=view&current=VID_20130904_125215_432_zpsbe467dad.mp4 target=_blank><img src=http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid1360.photobucket.com/albums/r660/DerekBergstrom/VID_20130904_125215_432_zpsbe467dad.mp4 border=0 alt=></a>

 

[awestib]

And what is that showing us in regards to this thread?

 

[Bladenoobie1]

I recently received a custom scandi from a knifemaker here on bf. I did basic tests--mostly feather sticks, but some drilling, and light batonning. The drilling resulted in really tiny micro chips on the tip. The batonning had almost no effect, but I did get a few tiny micro chips around the middle. I sharpened it on my waterstones and intentionally did a lot of wrist rolling to convex the edge. After my 4k grit, I stropped it A LOT until the bevel was a fairly high mirror polish. I can now drill without tiny chips, and do light batonning without tiny chips. That said I haven't done anything extensive or a bit "rougher" on this knife yet.