Does anyone have any experience with the Shapton Glass stones under 500grit

DeadboxHero

DeadboxHero

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
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Mar 22, 2014
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I need a very fast cutting stone that doesn't dish.

I'm thinking about purchasing a another DMT XC

But I want to know about the low grut shaptons like perhaps the 120~ or 220~ grits

Thanks bros
 
I have a 120 and 220.

I've compared the 120 with other coarse stones like the Nubatama 150, Imanishi 220, Atoma 140, and DMT 120. IMO, all of these stones have very similar cutting speed with the Atoma being the most powerful and followed closely by the Shapton.

The 120 and 220 glass are very hard stones that wear very slow, probably the best dish resistance of any coarse stone I have used. (Dish resistance is the stones ability to resist wear from sharpening allowing it to stay flatter longer). They have a wired feel though, almost slippery and it will sometimes feel like the knife is skating over the stone. It's deceiving because when you look at the bevel there is a bunch of steel missing :)

If you have a 500 then the 220 is the logical choice. If you feel the need for the 120 then you would likely need the 320 too before the 500. 120-500 is often too big of a jump and edge quality suffers along with making you frustrated.
 
OP: I have to ask: why not consider getting an Atoma? I've seen a lot of Jason's posts extolling its virtues. If I was in the market for a coarse stone now, I would certainly consider it.
 
An Atoma is hard to beat for many reasons. Better bang for the buck. Four grit options. Last longer if used correctly. Replaceable media. You can add another pad of a different grit on the unused side of the plate.

Any stone is going to dish to some extent. Fact of life. Easy to deal with if the proper tools are used.
 
Jason B. said:
I have a 120 and 220.

I've compared the 120 with other coarse stones like the Nubatama 150, Imanishi 220, Atoma 140, and DMT 120. IMO, all of these stones have very similar cutting speed with the Atoma being the most powerful and followed closely by the Shapton.

The 120 and 220 glass are very hard stones that wear very slow, probably the best dish resistance of any coarse stone I have used. (Dish resistance is the stones ability to resist wear from sharpening allowing it to stay flatter longer). They have a wired feel though, almost slippery and it will sometimes feel like the knife is skating over the stone. It's deceiving because when you look at the bevel there is a bunch of steel missing :)

If you have a 500 then the 220 is the logical choice. If you feel the need for the 120 then you would likely need the 320 too before the 500. 120-500 is often too big of a jump and edge quality suffers along with making you frustrated.
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Right on brother! 220 it is. I've been questing for speed sharpinging on cheapo knives.

I have the Naniwa Professional 400 but it seems to dish faster then I'd like.

Another question,

Do the Glass stones get about the same life span as a naniwa Pro 400?

Seems like very little abrasive for the money, ~1mm thick

Also does the Naniwa flatting stone work on The glass stone?

I got to try out an atoma 140 what a beast!

The diamonds just don't seem economical for mass sharpening as they wear out fast but damn, what aggression!

Any pics brother?

I know you have all the toys! :)

Rey HRH said:
OP: I have to ask: why not consider getting an Atoma? I've seen a lot of Jason's posts extolling its virtues. If I was in the market for a coarse stone now, I would certainly consider it.
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Definitely bro.

It's just that it wears out fast and it's expensive.
I'll probably just buy one to flatten stuff

The replacement plates are costly too
pjwoolw said:
An Atoma is hard to beat for many reasons. Better bang for the buck. Four grit options. Last longer if used correctly. Replaceable media. You can add another pad of a different grit on the unused side of the plate.

Any stone is going to dish to some extent. Fact of life. Easy to deal with if the proper tools are used.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info :)
bucketstove said:
Hi,
stuff to read :) Shapton Professional 120 Shapton Professional 220
Click to expand...

Thanks bro.

Wish cliff did a glass stone review.
 
My experience is that they are out of stock 'else one would be winging its way to me as we speak.
 
Never mind I was thinking you ment stones for the Edge Pro.
I have the full on Shapton bench stone in 120
Tottally LOVE that stone. Cuts, and cuts and cuts and will not glaze like my cheeper super coarse stones.
The reason for buying a glass stone escapes me. Why not buy the through and through pro ?



The coarser the better for fixing/reprofiling.
 
Wowbagger said:
Never mind I was thinking you ment stones for the Edge Pro.
I have the full on Shapton bench stone in 120
Tottally LOVE that stone. Cuts, and cuts and cuts and will not glaze like my cheeper super coarse stones.
The reason for buying a glass stone escapes me. Why not buy the through and through pro ?



The coarser the better for fixing/reprofiling.
Click to expand...

Haha right?

Good question, maybe it's marketing.

Idk I've haven't used either but curiousity is getting the best of me.
 
The glass stones are a higher grade of ceramic and tend to cut a bit faster than the pro stones on harder and more wear resistant steel. The pro stones wear more quickly in the coarse grits which might make them faster but being able to stay flat longer gives the glass stones the advantage IMO.
 
Jason B. said:
The glass stones are a higher grade of ceramic and tend to cut a bit faster than the pro stones on harder and more wear resistant steel. The pro stones wear more quickly in the coarse grits which might make them faster but being able to stay flat longer gives the glass stones the advantage IMO.
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Jason, how does the Shapton Glass
220 compare to the Naniwa Pro 400?
 
The NP400 is a very nice stone for low alloy stainless and carbon steels. It will handle some more wear resistant stuff like R2, ZDP and HAP40 but you can really tell the difference when sharpening those steels. It's very nice on large bevels too.

It's said the NP400 will sharpen faster than the SG120 and in some cases this is true but as the steel get harder and increasingly wear resistant the SG stones shine through.

As a stone junky I can only tell you that both are worth having :)
 
I've been using a 220 grit glass stone on the Edge-Pro for years. Total satisfaction.:):thumbup::)
 
tend to cut a bit faster than the pro stones
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I see.
Thanks !
I haven't heard that one before. Would be handy if they said that on their web site or the vendors would say that.
All I could tell was that the glass got the high grit stones into the hands of amateurs for less bucks.
e.g., 30,000 grit pro $600 30,000 grit glass $360 (I've seen it for less but have not pounced yet). :)
Yes OF COURSE it would be just a toy for me . . . I don't NEED it.

By the way I couldn't imagine a stone that cuts better than the pros on really hard stuff. That would be something to see.

After ATTEMPTING to use the Norton 220 off and on for years, which dishes and sluffs off grit if you look at it sternly from across the room and fails to remove any significant metal while going at it as if my life depended on it . . .

I just love the Shapton 120.
 
I've been using a 220 grit glass stone on the Edge-Pro for years. Total satisfaction.
Click to expand...

Ben, (or anyone else)

I just checked Chef Knives ToGo and they are still out of stock.
Is there another source for the 220 stone for the Edge-Pro that you could recommend ?
Thanks
 
When knives get really screwed up in the kitchen I break out the 220 glass. Seen a lot of use and has not needed much to keep it flat.
Blunt cut turned me on to the glass line a few years back and they changed the game forever for me. Grew up in the kitchen and with the Norton tri hones. DMT and Shapton have made a big difference for me.
Russ
 
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