Does anyone use one of these.......

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Jun 20, 2007
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Does anyone use a rachet type arbor press, to press there stamps into the blade of their knives?

I was going to provide a link to MSC but there site is temporarialy unavailable.
So I scaned the catalog page.

(click thumbnail for larger view)


MSC - PARTS#'S
2ton KW00233619
3ton KW00231290

I would assume you would proably have to stamp the blade hot and before HT.

Anyone who stamps their blades have any advice on the hot and before HT?
Also does anyone use one of these with their stamps?
 
Dixie, if I am on target, you are wanting to make early period knives. Not necessarily primitive, but early types. As far as I know, most hot stamp these. I use a nitric acid solution on mine, because that eliminates the stress factors, and I can change my logo from small to large, depending on the size of blade. I freehand any marks I am capable of drawing into a protective ground, which is a mix of wax and other ingredients. This takes maybe 45 minutes from start to finish, but gives one a break from other work, and you are only limited to what you can draw, or write, and you can change your logo anytime youn want, and it is a period correct method of marking your work. I usually do three at a time to justify the time. If this interests you, I can tell you where to get what you need.
 
I used an arbor press to hot press my logo. I did not use it to actually press it in but rather it held the stamp and I made a fixture to hold it. Then I put the hot blade under the stamp held it in place with on the press then struck the arbor to stamp it in. I did not like to limitations the arbor press and stamps posed. I now use a jewelers engraver.
 
I'm confused with LRB's answer and the question ( they seem to be on two different subjects).

Dixie:
I use a similar press to mark blades. I took it apart and drilled a shallow hole in the end of the ram (Then I reassembled it). I ground the end of my stamps to fit the hole.I place the stamp in the hole and set the blade in place. Then I turn the ram arm to press the stamp. You do the stamping on an annealed blade before HT. The blade is cold. A hot blade would destroy the temper of the stamp and make it useless. I use the same rig to mark numbers on tangs and letters, using a letter/number stamp set. Having 1095, O1, D2,CPM154, or the customers initials on the tang will prevent some serious mistakes when HT time comes or when you are making several of the same knife in different metals.
 
Thanks Stacy for the insight in to the use of the press. I was unsure if it would be used hot or not! I was trying to learn as much as I could about pressing a mark into a knife, as I have tried doing them with a hammer and it is hard to get consistent marks! I was thinking that doing the mark hot would make it easier to press it in but was already thinking of the heat causing problems!

As to your other question. Often when one asks a question on one of these forums they are on an expedition to find out all kinds of info and I believe that LRB read between the lines this time and saw that I was searching for a new way to mark my knives.

He also knows that even though I build other kinds of knives the period of the late 1700's - 1800's is more my passion. The process he described is right for that period of knife. So yes even though they are technically two different subjects they are both the same subject. :) Marking of knives! :D
 
You do the stamping on an annealed blade before HT. The blade is cold. A hot blade would destroy the temper of the stamp and make it useless.

I did all my blades hot as in red color before heat treat. I have done a couple hundred using the same stamps. One I made from HSS and the JS stamp provided by the ABS I believe it is O-1. Both are still it pristine condition. I made sure I did a good thermocycle after the stamping to reduce stresses and uneven heat zones. Had some interesting patterns before I did the post stamp thermocycle.
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread like this, but I didn't think my question warranted another thread.

My nerves can't take much more cold stamping my mark with a hammer. I'm looking around for an arbor press. Will a 1 ton press do the trick?
 
Dave,

I think you might be able to hold the blade and stamp using an arbor press, but you will have to strike the post with a hammer to get any penetration.

One ton is not much when it comes to steel.

Good luck, Fred
 
I suppose that'll serve my purpose as well; I just want a nice, even, repeatable mark and it sounds like this will do the trick.

Thanks Fred!
 
Dave,

When I used to use the press method, I did it before HT and I did it hot. After the mark I normalized the blade again. I also had to make a holder to hold the stamp square. Like Fred mentioned, Hold the stamp against the blade and strike the arbor with a hammer. I used a brass hammer. Make sure you hold it tight to blade or it could bounce and give a double mark.
 
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