Does anyone use the double angle edge on their blades ?

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Aug 26, 2005
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I,m not talking about on Kukuuris . More on pocket knives and other relatively thin bladed cutlery . I am speaking of the technique where you use a more obtuse angle atop the more acutely angled cutting edge . The blunter angle gives support to the thinner working edge . I myself have never developed the technique as I am lucky enough to own knives that take and hold an edge very well . Do you think it is worth the time to develop this technique ? does this technique require more maintenance ?
 
Not quite picturing it, Kevin.

On chisels and the cutting irons of wood planes, I use a "micro-bevel." Sharpen away to, say, a 20 degree main bevel, and raise it to perhaps 25 degrees for a few strokes at the end. The steeper angle at the actual cutting edge does give more wear resistance in those applications.

I've never done this for a knife though.
 
Tom , by steeper , do you mean more acute ? 25 degrees as opposed to 30 degrees ? If so then yes that is what I meam . I have only read of this and seen a drawing of a cross section . The text seemed to indicate more than a few licks (scientific term ) would be needed to establish the true cutting edge .

Since we are talking of degree here , both in angle of bevels and in how much we actually establish this "micro bevel " then I propose it is the same technique with similar goals . While I think the text I read was for knife blades , it was to establish a durable edge . This edge would not be capable of as clean a cut as a single angle edge , it would keep this cutting ability longer . What do you think and is this something to approach for regular blades ?
 
A "micro bevel" is a more obtuse angle for the cutting edge, superimposed on top of (I suppose it could be said "below") a more accute primary bevel. This gives support to the cutting edge. From what else you say, I think you are talking about a "micro bevel."

The opposite - more obtuse cutting edge - would be approaching the hollow or concave grind, only with successive angles instead of a curve. This creates a delecate edge.

Another good way to support an acute edge is to convex the blade behind the cutting edge. Yvsa is an expert on that -- and a good advocate for why it works.

Then there is the so-called "Scandi" grind, where the edge is simply the result of the two primary bevels meeting at an angle. Some are great fans of this treatment. Others find it unnesssarily fragile.

As in so many things, suit yourself. So micro bevel, microbevel, micro-bevel.
 
I've been forced to use it on blades that wouldn't hold an edge. I still use a relatively acute angle, I just use an even more acute angle on the bevel further up the blade in order to thin it out a bit.
 
Thanks Thomas and everyone . That clears up a misconception I had . I,ll have to try a couple of different angles just to see what works for me and with what kind of knives .
 
Thomas Linton said:
Then there is the so-called "Scandi" grind, where the edge is simply the result of the two primary bevels meeting at an angle. Some are great fans of this treatment. Others find it unnesssarily fragile.

That's why a lot of the older Scandi blades were so thick and sabre ground. Doing so made a more obtuse angle that would hold up better than a thinner blade and more acute edge would have.
These knives were designed to have a single edge bevel IMO and seem to do well with said edge, at least in my experience.
The new diamond hones have aided greatly in creating the single edge bevel because their wear is minimal unlike a natural or manmade whetstone that wears with every stroke.
Eventually those stones will wallow out once again making a convex edge more the reality unless re-flattened pretty often. That's an inheirent flaw with the soft waterstones but they are said to cut like the blazes!!!!

We just learned recently in the Cantina that not all Scandi edges were a single edge bevel but were ground with a more acute angle and then sharpened with a somewhat heavier obtuse micro bevel, maybe a 1/64" + wide or so from the way I understood.

But unless a person that sharpens free hand on a stone has an excellent eye and even more excellent motor skill they are going to have at least a slight convex edge anyway. There are very few people that can hold the exact angle freehand.
And that's why there are so many sharpening systems available. A sharpening device that holds the blade at the same angle to the stone each and every time will create an unusually sharp edge just because it is indeed precise.

The devices aren't really practical for a khukuri and personally I don't feel they are that good for a large knife that requires multiple settings.
Whenever the device is moved the person using it isn't apt to match the same degree of metal removal between the settings, but that's just my opinion and you know what's said about opinions.:thumbup: ;) :D

All of my knives that I have sharpened whether by hand or by belt sander and buffer are convexed, at least to some degree. I'm not one of the people with an excellent eye and even more excellent motor skills.
Everyone speaks about the difficulty of producing a convexed edge but in reality it is the one most likely to be produced when sharpening by hand.
And that's even using a pair of crock sticks with a precise angle. I can hold the knife pretty straight each and every time but I can guarantee that there will be at least several microbevels on the edge and enough so that in essence it would be considered
convex.:rolleyes: :p ;) :D ;)
 
I am humbled and encouraged by the advce I get here . People quite often remark on how sharp my knives are and have actually followed me around to see how its done . I hope to learn just a few of the techniques I have heard about here .
 
you may want to do a search here for dan koster's sharpening video cd, they've compressed it down to about 40 MB & it's well worth the look.

edited:

(it's here: Linky Link have a look thru the thread, it's got d/l url's and instructions....)
 
kronckew said:
you may want to do a search here for dan koster's sharpening video cd, they've compressed it down to about 40 MB & it's well worth the look.

edited:

(it's here: Linky Link have a look thru the thread, it's got d/l url's and instructions....)

So far I,ve only seen conversation and links that might not be up anymore . There was one suggestion that I didn,t have time to follow up on and I will try tonite .

My goal is to slice a hair cleanly before I have none left !
 
Kevin the grey said:
So far I,ve only seen conversation and links that might not be up anymore . There was one suggestion that I didn,t have time to follow up on and I will try tonite .

My goal is to slice a hair cleanly before I have none left !

it's in the 1st message:

FTP
Address:: Kazeryu.ath.cx
User:: hicantina
Password:: khukuri

(ftp://kazeryu.ath.cx as the url, it should prompt for username and password, use as listed above)

download the contents of the sharpening folder including subfolders & run the index.htm file (in ie6 right click 'sharpening' folder & pick the copy to folder option...)

the host location that had the .zip file is no longer available
 
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