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- Mar 2, 2014
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Plan to regrind a cqc7a to zero grind in future, and use it, any experiences????
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zero grind bevel, but the knife grind being what angle? the factory setup or ...? thanks.
yeah that was an anyone who would answer question....so thank you...to clarify...
so from the flat down to the edge a zero grind..understood...but what angle is the it from the flats to the edge? trying to understand what the steel can hold. since you've done it, and it works.... it's a good piece of info for future ref. thank you Sir.
I recommend a convex zero.
rolf
Because the increased edge retention of that compared to a straight zero? Just asking as I have not had the opportunity to use either.
Best to ask Josh at REK since he's the one who did it for me. You can PM or email him and ask if he recalls the specific angle setting he used to get the zero grind on a mini-7a. I'm carryin' the mini-7a now, BTW. Thought I'd try it to see just how well it'll work as an every day, everything user. It's my fav 3" knife. I like BM's 484 but the mini-7a has a better handle for my hand, more to grab on to. We'll see how that grind holds up.
Although they do slice and cut better than the factory grind, I find my zero-edged regrinds to be more delicate. I don't use them as hard. They do end up having a convexed edge as I strop them, and that helps.
I would suggest that if you want to use them hard but find they are weaker than you want (as long as it isn't a custom) to fine tune your edge and add a microbevel. I have to constantly be asking this question before I decide what to grind a knife to: what is the hardest knife your knife will see?
If it's moderate to hard use, with an emerson, I would recommend a .005" thick bevel at 15 dps, hard use .010" thick bevel at 15 dps, etc. totally depends on the application. Or you can do as Rolf states and convex the primary grind. There is a host of things that can be done =)