Does anyone use zero ground Emersons for edc-hard use?

I have a zero ground 7a and mini-7a. I've used them both since I got them back from Josh, but they are dedicated to certain roles now. I have another 7a that's factory standard that I'll do about anything with. The zero grinds slice... exceptionally well. No matter what the material. I've taken mine to work in the warehouse and sliced through zip ties and pallet strapping material. They've held up just fine. But I also had a Dozier FB on me for any other type of cutting that needed to be done. That's probably the life they're gonna live now... dedicated slicer.
 
zero grind bevel, but the knife grind being what angle? the factory setup or ...? thanks.
 
zero grind bevel, but the knife grind being what angle? the factory setup or ...? thanks.

If you're askin' me, mine are zero ground from the bottom of the stonewashed flats all the way to the edge. If you're askin' the OP what his intentions are, I can't say. But I've only seen Emersons zero ground from the flats to the edge like mine are, never seen one zero ground from the spine to the edge.
 
yeah that was an anyone who would answer question....so thank you...to clarify...

so from the flat down to the edge a zero grind..understood...but what angle is the it from the flats to the edge? trying to understand what the steel can hold. since you've done it, and it works.... it's a good piece of info for future ref. thank you Sir.
 
yeah that was an anyone who would answer question....so thank you...to clarify...

so from the flat down to the edge a zero grind..understood...but what angle is the it from the flats to the edge? trying to understand what the steel can hold. since you've done it, and it works.... it's a good piece of info for future ref. thank you Sir.

Best to ask Josh at REK since he's the one who did it for me. You can PM or email him and ask if he recalls the specific angle setting he used to get the zero grind on a mini-7a. I'm carryin' the mini-7a now, BTW. Thought I'd try it to see just how well it'll work as an every day, everything user. It's my fav 3" knife. I like BM's 484 but the mini-7a has a better handle for my hand, more to grab on to. We'll see how that grind holds up.
 
Because the increased edge retention of that compared to a straight zero? Just asking as I have not had the opportunity to use either.

I'm not Rolf, but I suspect he's thinkin' more along the lines of "more meat behind the edge", makin' it a stronger edge. The zero grind does get pretty thin down at the business end. You probably will get a little more edge retention, but you should get a bit more strength and stability against lateral stresses as well with a convex zero grind.
 
Although they do slice and cut better than the factory grind, I find my zero-edged regrinds to be more delicate. I don't use them as hard. They do end up having a convexed edge as I strop them, and that helps.
 
Best to ask Josh at REK since he's the one who did it for me. You can PM or email him and ask if he recalls the specific angle setting he used to get the zero grind on a mini-7a. I'm carryin' the mini-7a now, BTW. Thought I'd try it to see just how well it'll work as an every day, everything user. It's my fav 3" knife. I like BM's 484 but the mini-7a has a better handle for my hand, more to grab on to. We'll see how that grind holds up.

If you get me the measurements w/ a caliper I can tell you... not sure off of the top of my head. I would simply plug them into this calculator which will give you the angles...

Although they do slice and cut better than the factory grind, I find my zero-edged regrinds to be more delicate. I don't use them as hard. They do end up having a convexed edge as I strop them, and that helps.

I would suggest that if you want to use them hard but find they are weaker than you want (as long as it isn't a custom) to fine tune your edge and add a microbevel. I have to constantly be asking this question before I decide what to grind a knife to: what is the hardest knife your knife will see?

If it's moderate to hard use, with an emerson, I would recommend a .005" thick bevel at 15 dps, hard use .010" thick bevel at 15 dps, etc. totally depends on the application. Or you can do as Rolf states and convex the primary grind. There is a host of things that can be done =)

To really dial in your knife to your uses you would need to do something like this:

[video=youtube;Hy23qeCL1s8]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy23qeCL1s8[/video]
 
I would suggest that if you want to use them hard but find they are weaker than you want (as long as it isn't a custom) to fine tune your edge and add a microbevel. I have to constantly be asking this question before I decide what to grind a knife to: what is the hardest knife your knife will see?

If it's moderate to hard use, with an emerson, I would recommend a .005" thick bevel at 15 dps, hard use .010" thick bevel at 15 dps, etc. totally depends on the application. Or you can do as Rolf states and convex the primary grind. There is a host of things that can be done =)

The regrinds you did for me on my ZTs hold up better than the zero-ground Emersons I have. I believe it can be attributed to their bladesteels that have a higher hardness and better wear resistance. I've used them where I have had to subject them to sacrilegious work like cutting sheetrock and prepping/stripping network cabling and they've held up really well.
 
Thank cliff stamp for this. It works for zero edge measurements wonderfully:


To determine the edge angle you need to measure the thickness and the width, this can be done with a caliper which are not that expensive, you don't need a really high end one to estimate the edge angle on a knife. Divide the thickness by the width and multiple by 60 to get the included angle. This is an estimate of the trig relationship, but will be with a degree for cutlery angles.

For example 0.01" / 0.02" * 60 = 30 degrees included. The exact answer is 28.1 degrees, which is obtained by arctan (0.01 / 0.02 / 2)*2 .
 
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