It may be more cost-effective and more practical to simply replace the blade with more of a blade tang ramp than to replace the ti locking handle slab.
I talked with Chris about this once, and he said the locking bar's wearing across is not as big a problem as people perceive. He also said, and this is important to note as it applies to all liner-locking and frame-locking knives, you cannot simply replace a stop pin sleeve with a larger one to "reset the lock" interface, as it were. Doing so would throw off the angle at which the locking bar meets the blade tang ramp, which makes sense when you think about it.
I used to worry about long-term wear of Sebenza's, but what I started doing long ago (to use a term coined by another forum member recently) was to "soft-set" my lockup during opening, opening normally with my thumb against the lug until a little over halfway open, then using my forefinger against the back of the blade where the thumb ramp serrations are to open the blade the rest of the way while "dampening" the engagement of the lockbar agaist the blade tang ramp with my thumb at the same time. With practice, you can do it just as fast as opening all the way with your thumb. Once open, simply squeezing in a normal forward grip will engage the lock fully and safely.
While it may seem nuts, it has caused my lockup engagement to be the same (right at 65%) on my edc small Seb for over eight years now.
I do tend to overthink things, though. YMMV!
Professor.