Does Ironwood Need to Be Stabilized?

[The Amazing Virginian]

What is the experience of makers and collectors here?

I have probably a dozen knives with ironwood handles. AFAIK, none of that wood was stabilized. I know for certain that on some of those knives it was not stabilized, because I purchased the wood and supplied it to the maker.

On the other hand, other knives I have with other woods such as maple and walnut have used stabilized materials. But everything I had ever read indicated that was not needed or even really beneficial for ironwood. Maybe that was all wrong, or I was reading the wrong things from the wrong people, or maybe I was just confused all this time (would not be the first time ).

I know that at least two major suppliers of ironwood list unstabilized ironwood pretty much exclusively on their sites (even though other woods they offer are stabilized).

Personally, I have never had an issue with any movement, splitting, shrinkage, checking, etc. on any of my knives with ironwood handles. The main issue that I have experienced is that in most cases it seems to darken and lose some of its beauty over time. But I do not believe that is related to stabilization, as I understand that stabilizing it would darken it from the get-go. But as has been correctly pointed out, no one can ever know where a knife will wind up travelling over its life (which may well exceed our own!). Maybe unstabilized ironwood is a serious risk.

Should we all be demanding stabilized ironwood from now on, and avoiding knives where the maker failed to stabilize the ironwood?

 

[betzner]

I think each collector must make his or her own personal choice as to whether the risk of wood movement is an acceptable one, or whether it makes more sense to ignore a bit of risk - all to some degree, probably, a function of the amount of the investment? In my own case, my personal choice is to go with stabilized woods. Fortunately, I have enough, from 80s and 90s purchases, to last about 10 lifetimes, so never look for it anymore - though there sure seems to be lots available online.

Also, the issue as far as I am concerned has become moot, because I prefer non-wood handles at this point in my life.

Bob

 

[Kohai999]

Should we all be demanding stabilized ironwood from now on, and avoiding knives where the maker failed to stabilize the ironwood?

Some woods(Desert Ironwood is one of them) pretty much CAN'T be stabilized. Between the density and natural oils in Desert Ironwood, the stabilizing polymers will only penetrate so far, and that "so far" is surface only...which means that when a maker is done shaping the handle, the stabilized portion has been ground away.

Stabilizing is ideal for fairly porous woods that would possibly be unsuitable in natural form, California Buckeye burl and spalted maple are a couple that readily come to mind.

Even that said, stabilizing is not some magic cure-all, stabilized snakewood still has a tendency to check(crack) albeit much, much less.

Best Regards,

STeven Garsson

 

[John White]

As STeven mentions, several of the most prized woods, such as Desert Ironwood, African Blackwood, and Rosewood can't be stabilized due to the very oils which are part of their appeal.

These woods possess more natural stability than the woods we commonly stabilize with polymers, but no natural materials, including ivories and stag, are immune to shrinkage and swelling with changing moisture and temperature. As someone also mentioned in another thread, even synthetics can move, although rarely enough to give problems to knife makers.

It's up to the maker to take steps such as standing the handle material slightly proud of metal parts, with a "round-over" as design feature, "easing" mating edges of liner-to-handle fit in frames, doming pins over, rather than flush, on natural scales, and informing collectors of handling precautions on natural materials. Care in design and construction, allied with care in use, storage, and maintenance can make natural materials quite suitable for use on knives.

Micarta and G-10 are wonderful materials, beautiful, and excellent as handles on knives, but it would be a sad world full of only plastic boats, plastic car seats, plastic jackets, and plastic knife handles.

Stag, ivory, wood, and leather have been used and loved for ages. They're still beautiful and desired. Work with them, you'll live better surrounded with beauty.

John

 

[RogerP]

Ironwood is naturally dense and oily and doesn't need to be stabilized.

My main issue with the wood is one you have identified - that wonderful high contrast look when new can darken over time into something comparatively murky and lifeless. A clear lacquer-type finish does mitigate this effect, but most makers don't seem to go that route.

 

[Locutus D'Borg]

As STeven mentions, several of the most prized woods, such as Desert Ironwood, African Blackwood, and Rosewood can't be stabilized due to the very oils which are part of their appeal.

These woods possess more natural stability than the woods we commonly stabilize with polymers, but no natural materials, including ivories and stag, are immune to shrinkage and swelling with changing moisture and temperature. As someone also mentioned in another thread, even synthetics can move, although rarely enough to give problems to knife makers.

It's up to the maker to take steps such as standing the handle material slightly proud of metal parts, with a "round-over" as design feature, "easing" mating edges of liner-to-handle fit in frames, doming pins over, rather than flush, on natural scales, and informing collectors of handling precautions on natural materials. Care in design and construction, allied with care in use, storage, and maintenance can make natural materials quite suitable for use on knives.

Micarta and G-10 are wonderful materials, beautiful, and excellent as handles on knives, but it would be a sad world full of only plastic boats, plastic car seats, plastic jackets, and plastic knife handles.

Stag, ivory, wood, and leather have been used and loved for ages. They're still beautiful and desired. Work with them, you'll live better surrounded with beauty.

John

Very well said. We live in a world where everything has to be coated, even hardwood floors are covered in a layer of basically plastic. I remember in the early 60's when people used to have clear plastic covers over their "good" furniture. I love the look of worn micarta, where the fabric actually shows through. But I'm in a minority.

 

[Burl Source]

Desert Ironwood, African Blackwood and Ringed Gidgee are three woods that I never get stabilized.
Other than these three, any wood that can be stabilized, I send it in for stabilizing.

 

[peterinct]

Desert Ironwood, African Blackwood and Ringed Gidgee are three woods that I never get stabilized.
Other than these three, any wood that can be stabilized, I send it in for stabilizing.

What about rosewood and cocobolo? I think they also have a lot of natural oil and are dense enough that stabilizing may not be an option?

Peter

 

[Toni Oostendorp]

Never had any problems with desert ironwood, even when it had small cracks (which it often does).

The buyer should be informed though, so he or she can make a good decision wether or not to buy the knife. Here in europe I find that most buyers prefer unstabilized woods. They don't like the idea that a beautiful piece of wood has been turned into "plastic". Personally I like the stabilized woods.

 

[Gary Mulkey]

The main issue that I have experienced is that in most cases it seems to darken and lose some of its beauty over time.

I believe that the biggest culpret to the darkening of most natural materials is ultra violet light. I haven't researched it to be sure but I don't think that the stabilizing resins do that much as a light filter.

Gary

 

[Kevin Jones]

Kenneth, glad to see you started this thread to uncover the facts on Ironwood.

It would be unfortunate if collectors started avoiding knives with unstablized Ironwood handles for considering it an inferior handle material. Especially since stabilized Ironwood, for practical purposes doesn’t exist.

I prefer ivory and stag over wood, however I tend to stick to virgin Ironwood and Cocobolo on my wood handle knives as I feel they are probably the most stable. Speaking of murky and lifeless, some would describe the look of Blackwood as such, however those tendencies are in my opinion what makes it look so damn good when used in contrast with vibrant Damascus patterns and bright fittings.

[/QUOTE]

 

[RogerP]

Speaking of murky and lifeless, some would describe the look of Blackwood as such, however those tendencies are in my opinion what makes it look so damn good when used in contrast with vibrant Damascus patterns and bright fittings.

Some may well hold that view - though I have not heard it expressed in this thread. Just to be clear I would not describe African Blackwood in those terms. Nor would I equate the murky lifelessness of overly age-darkened Ironwood with quality African Blackwood. Blackwood remains one of my top 3 or 4 favourite woods.

 

[Russ Andrews]

Ironwood can be subjected to the stabilization process, however, the resins will not
usually penetrate much, and will often cause end grain checking.

 

[RogerP]

Question for makers - can the darkening be addressed by re-sanding / refinishing the handle? Or does it darken to a depth that too much material would be lost?

 

[Russ Andrews]

The darkening is superficial....Also seems that the potential for refinishing would be good
reason for leaving the wood a bit proud next to the ferrule & cap.

 

[Kevin Jones]

Some may well hold that view - though I have not heard it expressed in this thread. Just to be clear I would not describe African Blackwood in those terms. Nor would I equate the murky lifelessness of overly age-darkened Ironwood with quality African Blackwood. Blackwood remains one of my top 3 or 4 favourite woods.

You must have an alarm that goes off when I post.

 

[RogerP]

You must have an alarm that goes off when I post.

Nope - just subscribed to every thread I post in.

The darkening is superficial....Also seems that the potential for refinishing would be good
reason for leaving the wood a bit proud next to the ferrule & cap.

Good info Russ, thanks.

 

[Kevin Jones]

The darkening is superficial....Also seems that the potential for refinishing would be good
reason for leaving the wood a bit proud next to the ferrule & cap.

Russ, do you agree that uv light causes the darkening? I'm not sure darkening is exclusive to Ironwood as many wood cabinets, furniture, paneling will darken with age.

 

[Russ Andrews]

Kevin. Uv does cause darkening in Ironwood and some others, but I don't
know that it's the only cause.

Added: Some woods, like Osage, will darken from air exposure alone.

 

[JAlexander]

Very well said. We live in a world where everything has to be coated, even hardwood floors are covered in a layer of basically plastic. I remember in the early 60's when people used to have clear plastic covers over their "good" furniture. I love the look of worn micarta, where the fabric actually shows through. But I'm in a minority.

Nah. Well, probably. But I'm right there with you. I enjoy honestly aged woods and micarta the same way that I prefer steel that's acquired a patina.