does manufacture year effect 110 quality?

M

mykem

Joined
Feb 23, 2001
Messages
294
hi,

am picking up an 110 auto soon. so i might as well get a manual to keep it company.

i know they have made these for a long time.

i can get a 2006 model for under $40 shipped with sheath etc.

i've also seen a 1988 that is described as NIB for not too much more.

which would you buy and why?

thanks,

mike
 
Easy- I would buy both :D
Both are good quality! Usually the collectors will go after the 1988 NIB for their collection. No difference otherwise I guess...
Buy the least expensive for use I guess!
 
chickentrax said:
If there's a Wal-Mart or K-Mart near you, you can get them for $29.95 or less... :D
Click to expand...
Trax...
I think the secret word in Pee Wee's Playhouse today is "AUTO".
 
To get back to your original question..."quality"...the older knives were made from different steels, and the blades/handles were finished differently...it depends on what you like; smooth blend lines, slab sided grips, 2 or 3 rivets, etc...lots of choices... :D
 
chickentrax said:
To get back to your original question..."quality"...the older knives were made from different steels, and the blades/handles were finished differently...it depends on what you like; smooth blend lines, slab sided grips, 2 or 3 rivets, etc...lots of choices... :D
Click to expand...

I dont think 1988 and 2006 had too many differences though...
To me Slab sides, finish and blade steel,and # of rivets dont really equate to quality, those to me are feel and looks.

I would buy the least expensive of the 2 for me personally.
If you dont want to collect every date stamp for 1986-2006 there is no real reason to opt for the 1988 (for more money) is there? Both should have the same rivets/beveled edges/blade shape/stamp(almost)/ Different box...
Good luck.
 
luckily my government has decided i might hurt myself with an auto :jerkit:
so thats one whole section of knives i dont have to worry about acquiring :)
 
mykem said:
hi,

am picking up an 110 auto soon. so i might as well get a manual to keep it company.

i know they have made these for a long time.

i can get a 2006 model for under $40 shipped with sheath etc.

i've also seen a 1988 that is described as NIB for not too much more.

which would you buy and why?

thanks,

mike
Click to expand...

Mike, Mike, Mike, Haven't you figured out yet that you are offically addicted!!!! :D Get one or two each!!! :D

don't worry too much about quality.... Except for auto and some exotic conversions, like Prather and Yellowhorse, Buck has th best warranty going. They will take care of any issues. Prather warrantys his knives as I am sure does Yellowhorse.

Should you get a bad one (rare) Buck will make it right.

Seriously,,,I have found that in buying these toys, I can in about 99% of them, always at least get my money back, should I want to sell one. Usually make a few $$ on some of them..
 
Pack Rat said:
Mike, Mike, Mike, Haven't you figured out yet that you are offically addicted!!!! :D Get one or two each!!! :D

don't worry too much about quality.... Except for auto and some exotic conversions, like Prather and Yellowhorse, Buck has th best warranty going. They will take care of any issues. Prather warrantys his knives as I am sure does Yellowhorse.

Should you get a bad one (rare) Buck will make it right.

Seriously,,,I have found that in buying these toys, I can in about 99% of them, always at least get my money back, should I want to sell one. Usually make a few $$ on some of them..
Click to expand...

Very true Pack Rat!!!!
But you forgot to Pimp the Site!!! LOL :D
 
wh4f said:
Very true Pack Rat!!!!
But you forgot to Pimp the Site!!! LOL :D
Click to expand...

LOL< LOL< LOL<<<

Naaa,,, I already pimped the site to him in one of his earlier posts... :D
 
Sorry Pack Rat,
I couldn't keep up with all of 'em :D
Keep up the good work :D
 
originally posted by mykem:
i can get a 2006 model for under $40 shipped with sheath etc.

i've also seen a 1988 that is described as NIB for not too much more.

which would you buy and why?
Click to expand...
I believe the 1988 would be 425M blade steel, and the 2006 is 420HC, a minor difference worth noting. I would buy both, and the auto, then you'll be "hooked" like the rest of us:)
 
IMHO:
as a user or tool the newest ones will be the best.
and you cant beat wally!
but now that you are hooked ,
visually,
there is lots of eye candy that buck has made!!!
go get you some!
rat is doing a FINE job,
almost like tit jest comes to him naturally...
i wander...
 
wh4f said:
To me Slab sides, finish and blade steel,and # of rivets dont really equate to quality, those to me are feel and looks...
Click to expand...

The only one of those I disagree with is the blade finish...I like the sharp, even "ground" look of the newer blade finish; the abrupt blend line; and the semi-hollow grind with its descent to the new edge, with its definitive angle... :thumbup:

The older blended surface just disappoints me...which is why that pre-86 120 of mine is going on the auction block...in fact, even the Idaho stamped 120 is destined to be sold; I don't like blade etchings either...

I do equate the hand finishing of the blade to lack of quality...just personal preference... :rolleyes:
 
chickentrax said:
I do equate the hand finishing of the blade to lack of quality...just personal preference... :rolleyes:
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But Trax,
Is the hand finishing of the blade lack of quality, OR Lack of technology???:confused:
 
chickentrax said:
...which is why that pre-86 120 of mine is going on the auction block...in fact, even the Idaho stamped 120 is destined to be sold; I don't like blade etchings either...... :rolleyes:
Click to expand...

ah trax just be patient you can be the first to post in our new buy/sell thread if you time it right :D
 
wh4f said:
But Trax,
Is the hand finishing of the blade lack of quality, OR Lack of technology???:confused:
Click to expand...

I have always felt that "smoothing" out a blade, like scrimshawing a scale, or scriving a leather sheath (or holster, or saddle), was done more to hide manufacturing defects (or natural defects) than to enhance the beauty of the surface in question...

I understand what you are saying about the blade, but other knife manufacturers from the same time periods had much more attractive finishes (which to me equates to a more precise division of surfaces)...

It's all in the eye of the beholder... :) :thumbup:

Edit: I do like the "native steel" or "flint" finish on some blades, and may even acquire one of those someday... :D
 
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