Does S35VN blade steel rust?

Jamboi

Jamboi

Joined
Feb 7, 2013
Messages
384
I am curious because my 550 developed lots of brown spots that looked like rust, this weekend. I have been using it for everything from opening popsicles, to cutting small tree limbs, to opening pool chemicals, to cutting open bags of sand and potting soil, and etc. The spots are in various areas on the blade, but worst on the ZT logo itself and the edge of the blade grind. As soon as I saw it I rubbed it down in a pb penetrating catalyst. Then I waited about 15 minutes and soaked it in WD40. Some of the spots disappeared, but some are still there. Maybe I need to be more careful, but this is my favorite edc. I tried to take some pictures, but they just didn't show up in the pix.
 
ZT has a blade replacement for $30 but I don't know if it applies to something other than broken blades. Worth calling them up.

http://zt.kaiusaltd.com/contact

PHONE: 1.800.325.2891 TOLL FREE
EMAIL: INFO@KAI-USA.COM


ZERO TOLERANCE PRODUCT CARE: Maintaining Your Zero Tolerance Knives

CLEANING AND OILING

Always keep your knife clean. Wipe away debris and, if needed, wash with a mild detergent. Due to the high-carbon content of the quality steel in our blades, the blade may corrode if not properly cared for. To protect your knife, simply wipe a light coating of oil on the blade, pivot points, and lock (if applicable) before storing.

REMOVING LIGHT RUST

If your knife does develop rust spots, you can remove them by using a light abrasive, such as Flitz metal polish or Bon Ami cleanser made into a paste with a little water. Use an absorbant soft cloth to apply the cleanser. If the rust is more than just surface, try naval jelly or WD-40.
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Pool chemicals? Like Chlorine?
Stress Corrosion - Also called stress corrosion cracking or chloride stress corrosion. Chlorides are probably the single biggest enemy of stainless steel. Next to water, chloride is the most common chemical found in nature. In most environments, the PPM are so small the effects on stainless are minute. But in extreme environments, such as indoor swimming pools, the effects can be extreme and potentially dangerous. If a stainless part is under tensile stress, the pitting mentioned above will deepen, and cracking may take place. If you are using stainless steel bolts under tensile stress, in an environment where chlorine corrosion is likely, you should examine the potential for stress corrosion cracking carefully.
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Any steel will rust. Some more easily then others. The higher the Chromium content of the steel the more "stainless" it is but will rust just the same.

S30V / S35v offers pretty good corrosion resistance but will rust like any other steel under the right conditions.

Your best course of action is prevention. Regularly clean your blade of any salts or corrosives and apply a quality oil containing corrosion inhibitors and you'll be fine going forward.

I personally like and use Break-Free CLP but there are many products on the market that offer good corrosion prevention.

As far as light rust removal most metal polishes will do the trick. I use Flitz but there are many out there you can use.

WD-40 does little to nothing as far as corrosion prevention. Maybe a day or so but not much more. If your blade is making contact with pool chemicals I'd thoroughly wash the blade with fresh water and then dry completely and oil. As stated above the corrosives contained in pool chemicals are extremely damaging to blade steels.

Clean your blades, oil them occasionally and they'll be fine.
 
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Yes, chlorine packs among other things. Thanks for some great info y'all. I have been known to install or repair a swimming pool now and then. Those sand bags will dull the mess out of any blade in just a few hours, but I have never seen one go spotted before.
 
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I think H1 is about the only corrosion-free steel, and I suppose there are some exotic conditions where even that would rust--like ten years in salt water or something.
 
Any steel will rust, and living in the Deep South, you will likely need to keep an eye out for rust starting to form on your knives. The humidity down there takes a toll on steel. A little Flitz will usually take off minor surface rust, and oil is your friend as you already know.
 
Jamboi said:
I am curious because my 550 developed lots of brown spots that looked like rust, this weekend. I have been using it for everything from opening popsicles, to cutting small tree limbs, to opening pool chemicals, to cutting open bags of sand and potting soil, and etc. The spots are in various areas on the blade, but worst on the ZT logo itself and the edge of the blade grind. As soon as I saw it I rubbed it down in a pb penetrating catalyst. Then I waited about 15 minutes and soaked it in WD40. Some of the spots disappeared, but some are still there. Maybe I need to be more careful, but this is my favorite edc. I tried to take some pictures, but they just didn't show up in the pix.
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There is a little slip of paper, folded in the box. It has care and maintenance recommendations from KAI.

freewheeling said:
I think H1 is about the only corrosion-free steel, and I suppose there are some exotic conditions where even that would rust--like ten years in salt water or something.
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No, not even that. According to the composition there is nothing in it to rust. But another topic ffor another section all together.
 
I live in VA, but from FL. All comments about humidity in the air are true. Oil is great, but even a routine wipe with a dry towel goes a long ways. That being said, H1 is the shiznit.
 
If the steel has carbon in it it Will rust...period. Carbon is the reactive atom... This is why H1 doesnt rust... Carbon is replaced with Nitrogen. Stainless only means that it is resistant to rusting not that it won't.
 
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