Does Spyderco polish blades?

Dergyll

Dergyll

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Hi guys, I'm trying to save up a bunch of knives to go back for sharpening, I'm wondering if Spyderco will polish up the blade as well? AKA restore the finish? I'm okay with coughing up some money for it since they'll do a much better job with professional equipment.

Exhibit A, my well abused Carribbean with scratches on the blade, wondering if they can restore their beautiful vertical grind on them.
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Actually thinking of gifting it to a buddy (likes to go surf casting alot), minus the scratches of course.

Thanks for any knowledge, take care folks.
 
Maybe someone else knows but... I have some 3000 grit sandpaper that I'm going to use sometime to try and make a hand rubbed finish with at some point. I just haven't picked the knife yet.
 
They reshaped & sharpened but did not polish an Endura that I sent in for repair to the blade, even though asked that it be repolished because there was a obvious "stain" that needed polishing out.

Do you have a Harbor Freight near you and do you have a workbench in your garage? If, so consider buying a 2 wheel bench buffer and some polishing compound and just do it yourself.

I bought1 of these from HF for only $55: https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-buffer-61557.html. Polishing compound sticks only cost $5/each. Green will be your go-to compound for most purposes; black for stainless/alloy steels and grey for in-between green and black. Total cost about $70 plus tax.

I've used it to polish a variety of blades, including the Endura that no longer has a visible stain on it.

PS: Of course, they always say on The Antiques Roadshow that cleaning/polishing a "collectible" will substantially reduce it's value.

However, there's not all that much $ at stake w/any of the modern knives in my collection and I have no problem admitting to using the buffer to polish the blade as well as brass bolster and end cap on my Hattori Kershaws but I don't think that anyone other than an expert w/a loop could tell that I did that, especially since oxidation has already re-dulled the patina of the brass.
 
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Thanks for the info guys, guess I'll have to do this first THEN send it back for sharpening...time to hit up Home Cheapo...
 
Dergyll said:
Hi guys, I'm trying to save up a bunch of knives to go back for sharpening, I'm wondering if Spyderco will polish up the blade as well? AKA restore the finish? I'm okay with coughing up some money for it since they'll do a much better job with professional equipment.

Exhibit A, my well abused Carribbean with scratches on the blade, wondering if they can restore their beautiful vertical grind on them.
View attachment 1624815
Actually thinking of gifting it to a buddy (likes to go surf casting alot), minus the scratches of course.

Thanks for any knowledge, take care folks.
Click to expand...
Email them or call and ask.
 
sliceofaloha said:
Maybe someone else knows but... I have some 3000 grit sandpaper that I'm going to use
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Easy peasy, brother. Like Uxo2 suggested, you can put the sandpaper on a hard flat surface and rub the blade on it. The caveat is to move the blade in exactly the same direction with each stroke, so your scratch lines remain parallel. Of course this only works if your blade is flat. If it isn't, you can use a softer flat surface to mount your sandpaper, or you can even use your finger. Just remember to keep your scratch lines parallel. Really, you're taking off so little material, if you get wobbly with your scratch lines, it's no big deal to start over. Also, 3k might be a little fine. Get some coarser sandpaper, as well, just to try out. Maybe start as coarse as 400.
 
Thanks, I will give it a shot...I'm very trepeditious about doing it on a 200-300$ knife that's all...

I'll try it on my cheapie Polestar first :P
 
Yeah but I feel like it'll look prettier as a birthday gift if I give it the spa treatment. And not MY spa which is not quite as nice as Spyderco's.

I gave it a shot and emailed them, if I get a nowayjose, I will attempt it myself I guess...as if my carribean hasn't suffered enough by my hands gutting fish and schucking clams lol. One time I dropped it in saltwater between some rock cracks and had to wait for low tide to retrieve it...G10 still looks brand new, but the blade has seen better days.
 
RustyIron said:
Easy peasy, brother. Like Uxo2 suggested, you can put the sandpaper on a hard flat surface and rub the blade on it. The caveat is to move the blade in exactly the same direction with each stroke, so your scratch lines remain parallel. Of course this only works if your blade is flat. If it isn't, you can use a softer flat surface to mount your sandpaper, or you can even use your finger. Just remember to keep your scratch lines parallel. Really, you're taking off so little material, if you get wobbly with your scratch lines, it's no big deal to start over. Also, 3k might be a little fine. Get some coarser sandpaper, as well, just to try out. Maybe start as coarse as 400.
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Cool, thanks! I'd feel a little better starting with the high grit for some reason.
 
Dergyll said:
Yeah but I feel like it'll look prettier as a birthday gift if I give it the spa treatment. And not MY spa which is not quite as nice as Spyderco's.

I gave it a shot and emailed them, if I get a nowayjose, I will attempt it myself I guess...as if my carribean hasn't suffered enough by my hands gutting fish and schucking clams lol. One time I dropped it in saltwater between some rock cracks and had to wait for low tide to retrieve it...G10 still looks brand new, but the blade has seen better days.
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Please post their reply, might be needing that service also.
 
Dergyll said:
Yeah but I feel like it'll look prettier as a birthday gift if I give it the spa treatment. And not MY spa which is not quite as nice as Spyderco's.

I gave it a shot and emailed them, if I get a nowayjose, I will attempt it myself I guess...as if my carribean hasn't suffered enough by my hands gutting fish and schucking clams lol. One time I dropped it in saltwater between some rock cracks and had to wait for low tide to retrieve it...G10 still looks brand new, but the blade has seen better days.
Click to expand...

It is really EASY to DIY and, as long as you have the "right" equipment which, as I mentioned previously, it really doesn't cost all that much and you can do it EXACTLY the way you like w/o asking for something that you may not get back to your satisfaction.

Unlike grinding, polishing blade steel is pretty much idot proof and nothing you can do (unless you are a complete idiot, which I doubt) would likely "ruin" the knife.
 
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nephron nephron
Here's the reply:
"We can help to sharpen your knife. If your knife just needs a basic sharpening regardless of edge style, the sharpening is free; however, there is a $5 shipping and handling fee. We can try to buff off scrathces if they are not too deep but if they are too close to the logo it will also remove some of the logo.

If your knife needs to be re-serrated, re-tipped or any other non-warranted repairs then it would be $20. plus the $5.00 for shipping. (If the tip break is very small we may be able to fix it with just a basic sharpening)."

I'm an idiot and forgot to print the form before leaving work friday so I'll do it Monday (dont have a printer at home!). Have a GEC warranty form too to print, got one with alot of play.
 
Sorry to necro an old thread, but I got my knives back from Golden and they did a fantastic job. They polished the blades up without removing too much material and sharpened them up factory. It's definitely a light polish but did wonders to my old blade.

They also loosened those super tight screws on my militaries so I can muck with the centering.
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Also included is that nice note from their service department. All in all, A+ experience, just wanted to give a shout out Sal Glesser Sal Glesser thank you and your team.
 
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