Does this knife even exist?

Wood Splitter

Wood Splitter

Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
993
6" to 7" blade with or without a choil, it doesn’t really matter.
NO swedge or serrations.
Stainless or highly rust resistant.
3/16th or ½ thick. Or there about anyway.
Full tang construction with micarta or G10 is preferable, but I would consider a good partial tang with rounded shoulders and a good handle materiel as well.
Good edge holding capabilities, preferably better than 1095.

I would rather not have any brittle stainless steels such as D2. Laminate steels such as the VG10 Fallkniven uses are alright.

It will be used for light to heavy tasks such as light chopping and batoning, making feather sticks etc, etc.

I would like for it to be stainless because it will be used during the winter. I would rather not have to worry to much about my blade rusting to pieces in its sheath on my hip.

I really like the feel of my modified Becker BK7. I ground the thumb ramp down so the spine was flat, I ground a choil in to it, and then I convexed the edge. Great blade, but man dose it ever rust up quick in its sheath, and its almost impossible to keep your blade completely dry in such weather. :(

I have owned a Fallkniven A1 before, but I hated the kraton handle. To soft and not durable enough for me. A custom full tang A1 with micarta or G10 and a kydex sheath would be absolute perfection for me. Any of you got one of 'em you would like to let go of? ;)

The only other thing I have come across that somewhat meets my need is a BUSSE Ash-1. But they don’t come up for sale or trade to often, but when they do, they are way over my budget.

I would like to keep the price around, but preferably below $300 or so. If I find my dream knife, I may sell a few things to afford it. But for now, try and keep it around $300.

Please give me your opinions on any knives you think may meet most of my specs. It would be very much appreciated.

Thanks for your help everyone,
Wood Splitter
 
Any thing in between 3/16" and ½" is fine. I don’t want to be too specific and miss out on a great blade just because of a couple milometers in thickness. But lets say 3/16" thick with a sabre grind, just to make up for the slightly thinner stock.
 
Entrek Buffalo, $230 direct from Ray (possibly cheaper in other locations), 7" blade of 440C:

Buffalo%20lg.jpg
 
That’s a good looking blade! Price is alright too, but I don’t really care for guards on the top of knives. I guess I could mod that though. Thanks for the suggestion!
 
BK77? Camillus made S30V BK7. (yes, you have to knock the thumb ramp off yourself)
 
Or realize a carbon steel knife won't "rust to pieces" in the sheath, and is actually quite easy to care for, and open yourself up to countless more knives, with equal performance and lower price tags ;)

I would honestly give a stainless recommendation, and not a snarky comment, if I had one to recommend. Sorry. :p
 
goodeyesniper said:
Or realize a carbon steel knife won't "rust to pieces" in the sheath, and is actually quite easy to care for, and open yourself up to countless more knives, with equal performance and lower price tags ;)

I would honestly give a stainless recommendation, and not a snarky comment, if I had one to recommend. Sorry. :p
Click to expand...

I understand “rust to pieces” is a bit of an over statement, but almost all of the knives I own at the moment are carbon steels. I take great care of all of my knives, and none of them have rust. But when I go out in the snow and use my knife, the blade gets wet, and I am unable to dry it off properly, so I end up with quite a bit of rust after I get back in.

I would like just one do-it-all knife that is stainless that I can take out in such weather, and not have to worry about drying it from but to tip the second after I use it. That’s why I want a stainless blade. For spring and summer though, I will take a carbon blade.

Thanks for everyone’s help!
 
Wood Splitter said:
I understand “rust to pieces” is a bit of an over statement, but almost all of the knives I own at the moment are carbon steels. I take great care of all of my knives, and none of them have rust. But when I go out in the snow and use my knife, the blade gets wet, and I am unable to dry it off properly, so I end up with quite a bit of rust after I get back in.

I would like just one do-it-all knife that is stainless that I can take out in such weather, and not have to worry about drying it from but to tip the second after I use it. That’s why I want a stainless blade. For spring and summer though, I will take a carbon blade.

Thanks for everyone’s help!
Click to expand...
Problem is, it's tough to find a stainless blade in that length that's tough enough to take heavy impacts from chopping or batoning. I did see one tactical machete from Strider in S30V, though it's sold out now and I doubt more will turn up in the near future. I also see a few other fixed blades from them in that length range, though given the apparent thickness I'm not sure how well it would cut. Though all of them are above your price range.
 
id second the above comment about just using a carbon steel. but if your really that worried about aestetics here goes:

ok first off is the dpx gear heft 6 inch.

hogue makes a good fixed blade with witha seven inch cutting edge.

strider mark 1 with g10 grips pretty much perfectly fits your bill

zero tolerance fixed blade

you can also get a fallkniven blank and have it handled to your liking.

bark river has some things you might like

cold steel outdoorsman: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Outdoorsman--6890

cold steel premium srk with san mai

helle lapland

ontario black bird: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Ontario-Blackbird-SK-5-Survival--10582

hard to find but fully fitting your description knife research legion: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Knife-Research-Lion-Steel-Legion-SC--8922

if all else fails there most likely a custom maker that cna do what you want for the price you want. bud nealy speacializes in stainless.

if non of these apeal to you then frankly im stumped fyi i put alot of time and research into this so i hope something helps you
 
razorsdescent said:
id second the above comment about just using a carbon steel. but if your really that worried about aestetics here goes:

ok first off is the dpx gear heft 6 inch.

hogue makes a good fixed blade with witha seven inch cutting edge.

strider mark 1 with g10 grips pretty much perfectly fits your bill

zero tolerance fixed blade

you can also get a fallkniven blank and have it handled to your liking.

bark river has some things you might like

cold steel outdoorsman: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Cold-Steel-Outdoorsman--6890

cold steel premium srk with san mai

helle lapland

ontario black bird: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Ontario-Blackbird-SK-5-Survival--10582

hard to find but fully fitting your description knife research legion: http://www.bladehq.com/item--Knife-Research-Lion-Steel-Legion-SC--8922

if all else fails there most likely a custom maker that cna do what you want for the price you want. bud nealy speacializes in stainless.

if non of these apeal to you then frankly im stumped fyi i put alot of time and research into this so i hope something helps you
Click to expand...

Thank you very much sir! Very much appreciated:) I don’t really care about aesthetics as much as I do rust ruining my edge.

What do you all think of the ESEE 6-P? I already own a BUSSE BOSS Jack with similar specs to the 6, but the edge on my BOSS Jack is extremely thick! I have convexed it and it only helped a little bit, it cant even push cut paper at the moment, only slice cut. So I was considering trading or selling it and getting an ESEE 6. What do you think?
 
Wood Splitter said:
Thank you very much sir! Very much appreciated:) I don’t really care about aesthetics as much as I do rust ruining my edge.

What do you all think of the ESEE 6-P? I already own a BUSSE BOSS Jack with similar specs to the 6, but the edge on my BOSS Jack is extremely thick! I have convexed it and it only helped a little bit, it cant even push cut paper at the moment, only slice cut. So I was considering trading or selling it and getting an ESEE 6. What do you think?
Click to expand...
I think you should send your Boss Jack to Richard J. here on the forums to have it sharpened and bask in its perfection. Though to be perfectly honest, slice cutting paper is a pretty decent level of sharpness. And given the price comparison I feel you'd be downgrading from an alloy tool steel to a plain and simple carbon steel. I'm pretty sure edge retention would be a small step down as well.

I myself picked up a ZT 0100 in CPM-3V and I would suggest something in that steel:thumbup:. Though again, you have to look at what you have and ask yourself whether you need a new tool to do a job your current ones can't, or whether you just want an excuse to buy a new knife;).

Thinking back on what I said earlier, the ZT 0170 in 14C28 probably can't resist corrosion as well as something in S30V, but with the DLC coating and perhaps a smooth mirror polished finish, I think it would do well. The Spyderco Schempp Rock would probably be the closest to what you need without any modifications and immediate availability. Though there is a small swedge and I'm not sure if the FRN handles will float your boat. If you just want something to get the job done though I would look no further than Spyderco. I don't think it would handle batoning well, but looking at the grind, it would chop exceedingly well. Looks almost like a cross between a Khukuri and a machete.
 
I have a ESEE-6 and it fits all of your requirements aside from the fact that it is 1095. I took it ice fishing yesterday and used it for fire prep, some food prep etc. It was -15 or so with the wind, heavy snow and high wind. No rust today as far as I can see. Why not just get a Tuf cloth and wipe your blades down in the field? Works for combat troops to protect your gear. Price is right on the 6 as well and has a great sheath system too.
 
I have an ESEE 6 and love it -- it is my primary go-to knife for outdoor chores as I find the handle very comfortable in a variety of grips. I had a Boss Jack and found the edge geometry too thick to be "instinctual" in use, so I sold it. (ESEE-5 has the same issue for me -- great knife, will do just about anything you could ask of it, but there IS a longer learning curve than with other "less bombproof" knives)
 
Dont forget there are alot of great custom knife makers on here too. Jake Hoback and Jason Howards both do great work for great prices. Jake seems to like working with CPM154 alot.
 
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